Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey r30 fans....i think ive said before, but ive bought a r30hatch....Anyway all i want is engine, gbox, tshaft, loom computer, p-windows and possibly front seats......all other parts are up for grabs...as one piece preferably, but will seperate if need be..... but oce i get what i want from it, i will only keep it for a week or so, then i will chop it up and dump it....so pm me if any of you are interested in the remaining parts/shell......will be cheap as, if not free....depends what ur after......if i remember correctly, all badges are intact also.....

Derrrrrrrrr! aren't I a DuMass, I get the drift, you guys querying me putting RS badges on a HR PNV.

I bought the new badges from Jenesis before I had the PNV, the DOHC RS were going on the MR30 Hatch. I also have a set of U12 Pintara Ti Nissan badges, that I was going to put on the guards, they're black with a GOLD wreath and Nissan on the bottom.

At the end of the day, what's in a badge, the car is still a PNV.

You're the one putting a Tekamon nose on a PNV :P

I was half tempted to put Triumph badges on it... I can see a lot of similarities between the DR and what I think the next evolution of the TR series would have been like

Independant rear

Good brakes for the time

Innovative fuel injection

No steering feel

Reasonably unbreakable engine

One of the fastest cars in its class

But some nice Datsun badges will do, and a Pintara badge for the bootlid just to confuse people lol

You're the one putting a Tekamon nose on a PNV :P

Adam,

Other than you being one of the few on this thread that doesn't like the Iron Mask front, what's so dammed bad about putting it on a PNV.

It already has an non std RB engine, non std SAAS Enforcer front seats, non std 16 inch wheels, non std front & rear brakes, non std instrument cluster, non std transmission, non std suspension, non std diff & non std drive shaft.

How else it it so abhorrible that it has an iron mask front.

In the most part it's all nissan and from the R30 family.

Your remark about triumph badges and the like is insane to say the least. Why not go Renault badging, at least you will be staying with company product.

L24E ECU's play a very important part in our ecological status these days.  

They make VERY GOOD LANDFIL!!!!!

Jap Hot Plate tail lights are RARE, try SSS Automotive or Just Jap, or Option 1 etc, try all the importers, PARTS IMPORTERS that is.

All I suggest, I keeping my spare set, or hang on, what you got now?

You got Genuine 84/5 Aussie Tail Lights?????

Let me know if you have.

Yeah, i got a set of 84 Aussie tailights, they are on my car, i also have a single one, right hand side (I think) from a wreck. I gotta get some jap spec lights

As a matter of interest!

Plenty has been said about my intention of changing the front on my PNV, absolutely nothing has been said about the performance enhancements.

What's with the bullsh!t on changing the front?????

so hows life rsx84 , i think i know you . anyhow

i own a paul newman gt es with a l20et , all stock

exept boost , this thing not only lives off neglect

but thrives of it

how ya going roy.. haven't seen you around town for ages, everyone this is the bloke with the 4door PNV, hopefully you still have it? good to see you finally got around to having a look at this site, did you read it all or skip to the good bits? my car is still a work in progress but is this close to completion...

As a matter of interest!

Plenty has been said about my intention of changing the front on my PNV, absolutely nothing has been said about the performance enhancements.

What's with the bullsh!t on changing the front?????

I guess it's cause it's a rare PNV? But,as you say,it's already been tamperd with,so to my way of thinking ,it doesn't really matter.Speaking of performance enhancements,was yours the RB25DET one? Sorry,this thread is too long to go searching back through!

Sure PNV's are rare, but only in Japan are they of value, here they're just another R30.

To some, like those on this forum thread, may think otherwise, but at the end of the day it is only rare and valuable if & when it is SOLD. As I don't intend to sell it ever, there is no rarity value and it will always be a PNV as it is marked that way and sold that way, just a modified version.

If it was to stay stockish, a L20et rebuild to L28 would be necessary for some performance and to rebuild to L28 spec, it's same price for RB and RB is modern technology.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...