Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

haha yeah i guessed that much, i wouldnt even know where to start though too many numbers and shit everywhere

its actually not that hard, 3 real figures u need to know, ID (inner diametre), spring rate and length.

these are usually printed on each spring, if u were looking to replace ur springs then simply match the eibach springs with the ones in there atm.

to give u a rough idea where to start Gary sends the R32 guys for their bilsteins 0800.250.325(and 225 for rear)

this basically means, 8" long, 2.5" ID and 325 and 225 lbs/in (6/4kg)

goes fair well with the bilsteins, although ull need a helper at the rear to keep it captured, as well as the front depending on how low u go.

He did offer some good prices on his group buys though. No one in the industry could match those kinds of prices.

I am sure his company Jamex made a fair few dollars out of it, however at least they are willing to drop their prices unlike all of the other Bilstein retailers. They couldn't come close to SK's prices.

yeh his prices were never that great, even at GB prices they could still be beaten.

yeh his prices were never that great, even at GB prices they could still be beaten.

Shame the owner of the company that everyone paid in the gruop buy, i.e. Jamex, is actually owned by SK (Heasmans informed me of this)

So not sure whether it was a valid group buy in that sense.

Beaten by whom?

Sorry, question answered.

yeh still running the bilsteins, but on the lookout for S13 rears, according to a mate who works at a place who supplies sells bilsteins, the S13's are damped much harder than the R32 gear, in fact the R32 gear is apparently really soft, so for the 6/5 combo its really underdamped.

these are the figures he gave me:

					Ex-length	Comp L	 Bump	Rebound
S13 rear b46-1744	   538	   393	   800	  2070
R32 rear b46-1474	   542	   382	   350	  1335

my old R32 dampers will be going into an R31, but ill still need to get my front R32 dampers revalved to suit the 6kg coils

SK made a lot of claims during his time here...many of which were proven by myself and others on here to be total fiction. This is why he no longer shows his face here in SAU but has moved on to easier 'fodder' on other forums. Speak to Heasmans about what you require or ask some of the experienced suspension modifiers on here of what you require.

yep we've had a set of sk's bilsteins and a set of off the shelf bilsteins on a shockie dyno and they were exactly the same :sick:

HI guys, where could I get the Eibach springs for r33 gts-t??? I contacted east coast suspension, they said Eibach doesn't make springs for R33 Gts-t, is this true???

probably not OE replacements, but they go up to 3" ID, and like 14" length so im sure there is a spring u could use. anyone know what ID standard springs are? i could probably go up and measure the ones ive got up in my shed but cbf lol

its actually not that hard, 3 real figures u need to know, ID (inner diametre), spring rate and length.

these are usually printed on each spring, if u were looking to replace ur springs then simply match the eibach springs with the ones in there atm.

to give u a rough idea where to start Gary sends the R32 guys for their bilsteins 0800.250.325(and 225 for rear)

this basically means, 8" long, 2.5" ID and 325 and 225 lbs/in (6/4kg)

goes fair well with the bilsteins, although ull need a helper at the rear to keep it captured, as well as the front depending on how low u go.

sweet as, i understand fully now, just needed someone to explain how all the random numbers and things meant.

Cheers :(

yep we've had a set of sk's bilsteins and a set of off the shelf bilsteins on a shockie dyno and they were exactly the same :D

lol and that should be the final nail in the coffin for the SK GB rep. As I have said previously, it was a good starting point and a promoted a better understanding of suspension in 'Line

sweet as, i understand fully now, just needed someone to explain how all the random numbers and things meant.

Cheers :D

yeh theres a lot of unneeded figures on there (well for a lot of people), just read the ones in the model number and ull be fine, the spring seat ur using is obviously what defines the ID u need, the spring rate is pretty obvious, its only the length thats a bit harder to get a grip of as it will determine the height ur car sits at.

He did offer some good prices on his group buys though. No one in the industry could match those kinds of prices.

I am sure his company Jamex made a fair few dollars out of it, however at least they are willing to drop their prices unlike all of the other Bilstein retailers. They couldn't come close to SK's prices.

almost every place i spoke to in vic could match/beat his group buy kit prices... i got my bars for something like 2/3 his price or something ridiculous

  • 3 weeks later...

A very interesting thread.

Being a complete suspension luddite, I am attracted to 'suspension packages' as I wouldn't have a clue where to start if I want to spec/order individual components.

Sadly it seems like SK's packages were not all the seemed to be. The Elite Racing package linked earlier in the thread is appealing, but from what I understand people are saying the king springs in that package are not the best? Are there any other suspension packages of note for an R32 GT-R, or should I just go to somewhere like Heasman's and have them put together something?

Lucien.

Edited by lwells
A very interesting thread.

Being a complete suspension luddite, I am attracted to 'suspension packages' as I wouldn't have a clue where to start if I want to spec/order individual components.

Sadly it seems like SK's packages were not all the seemed to be. The Elite Racing package linked earlier in the thread is appealing, but from what I understand people are saying the king springs in that package are not the best? Are there any other suspension packages of note for an R32 GT-R, or should I just go to somewhere like Heasman's and have them put together something?

Lucien.

heasmans can definitely steer you in the right direction mate. they have involvement with lots of skylines, from your regular street R32s, to full on circuit 32s (from super sprints to door to door stuff), to drag and even drift cars. unlike many suspension places they actually know what makes a car handle, not just how to stop uneven tyre wear on the road...

obviously being a bilstein importer/dealer they will probably set you up with some bilstein shocks anyway.

Are we back to concluding higher spring rates are best?

I'm looking at the japanese GT-R magazine, and it has specs for all the japanese tuner

cars in each issue, the last one, issue 132 shows these spring rates. Written as front/rear or

just one number if one was given.

BNR34 - swift 14kg/mm

BNR34 - 12kg 10kg

BNR32 - 10kg 8kg

BNR34 - 18kg 16kg

BNR34 - hyperco 17kg

BNR34 - 12kg 10kg

BNR34 - tein super racing 18kg

BNR34 - swift 17kg

BNR34 - apexi n1 12kg 10kg

BNR33 - midori 9kg 8kg

BNR32 - mines esta 12kg 10kg

BNR32 - 12kg 10kg

BNR32 - eibach 10kg 8kg

BNR32 - 10kg 8kg

BNR32 - Tein h1 8kg 6kg

BNR32 - Ohlins 18kg 16kg

SK had lots of good advice on this forum. Sure nto everybody saw eye to eye with him and i am sure some of what he posted was incorrect. Nobody is perfect and its not right to write the guy off now that he isnt around.

Its a public forum, so the usual caveat applies , the advice was free and you get what you paid for. In the case of the Group Buy for a long time the prices were good and people were happy...times change and no reason to right a guy off.

Anyway, i have no stake in this...but he gave lots of his time and...yeh :thumbsup:

Tein RA or RE foer the win baby :banana:

A very interesting thread.

Being a complete suspension luddite, I am attracted to 'suspension packages' as I wouldn't have a clue where to start if I want to spec/order individual components.

Sadly it seems like SK's packages were not all the seemed to be. The Elite Racing package linked earlier in the thread is appealing, but from what I understand people are saying the king springs in that package are not the best? Are there any other suspension packages of note for an R32 GT-R, or should I just go to somewhere like Heasman's and have them put together something?

Lucien.

The Elite Racing package has exactly the same Bilstein shocks, they just use King springs and superpro bushes.

So the package will actually be very very similar.

Heasmans are good, but they will also rob you of all your money ahah

Since the packages are very similar, Id just buy it off Elite Racing since they have good prices and go from there.

Can anyone recommend a shop to re-valve my Bilsteins? I am considering increasing the spring rate (Not to anything like those listed above) but am a little wary of the local Bilstein outlet as I was not all that convinced by them in a recent phone conversation. I'm in WA.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...