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Got my shift kit fitted today at a workshop i wont name for the reason of people being bias ...

now you all may of known of my gerbox problem, leaking gasket going into limp mode yada yada yada.

shift kit they said works fine but it could be better somthing about pressure, BUT its slipping real bad in reverse, so bad it couldnt even back over a change in concrete height the size of a coke bottle cap.

now they are saying the best of the worst is, its just the bands need replacing. worse it a rebuild $$$$.

if they replace the bands, the Stage 1 (valve body mod) shift kit will still be to strong for the clutch packs.

now i dont know what else is inside the gear box besides bands, clutch packs and valve body, but a reabuild is what ? changing of parts to fresh ones , or changing parts to stronger ones to now suit the valve body.

car's done 107,000km's, so rebuild is on the cards anyway, just wasnt expecting it so soon.

IDEA's ... ADVICE .. OPINIONS ... PLEASE

rebuild the box. (if need be) or source a Gearbox (GTT - GTST - GTR) and take a lucky dip at condition and do the Manual conversion.

Cheers TJ

P.S sorry about the essay was just thinking as i was typing :)

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just did the shift kit, sump off job . . . fluids all topped up , service kit also put in.

there getting their boss to have a look at it tomorrow.

oh yeah ANOTHER ISSUE .... when looking at Rebuild they kept looking at RE401'A'

then i told them it was a 'B' they all kind of looked at each other .... so i asked them ' you knew it was a B right, thats what i booked it in for '

thats where i got worried. hopefully the boss is very professional and works the shit out ...

just did the shift kit, sump off job . . . fluids all topped up , service kit also put in.

there getting their boss to have a look at it tomorrow.

oh yeah ANOTHER ISSUE .... when looking at Rebuild they kept looking at RE401'A'

then i told them it was a 'B' they all kind of looked at each other .... so i asked them ' you knew it was a B right, thats what i booked it in for '

thats where i got worried. hopefully the boss is very professional and works the shit out ...

fark

hm. . . .

another box . . . . .go manual . . .. damn this is a hard decision to make.

im gonna talk with them today now that i got the day off, damn rain !

get some $$ idea's and cost price's then sit on it for a week or 2 to work it out.

cause manual will change the whole feel of the car. would i need to find a ECU for the manual ?

Unless you specifically want an auto go Manual. I reckon your best bet would buy an R32 or R33 GTR front cut and drop the motor and gearbox straight in then sell your motor and gearbox to recoup some cash. (You might even get some nice brembos for the front also) :)

did I hear Brembo???? I have been quiety looking for a nice brake upgrade, with the power mine is putting out I am finding the stock brakes are just crap!

Back on topic.... It depends on what you want the car for? If you want it sporty then go for the manual. I am kind of the other way around, I bought the manual because I have always had them and now am thinking I would rather an auto as I only drive the car to and from work and just can be bothered with a manual anymore.

Decide where your heart is with manual and auto and then go from there, if you have to rebuld the auto at $5000 then it wont be any more to go manual I'm guessing.

As as I want an auto though, I love having a sporty drive in my manual!

i've got a auto for daily driving and a auto for my weekend car (stagea)

just want a manual, but in the stagea is alot of city traffic, manual is a bitch, but i wanna get on the track also. also hoping to keep it for a family car, but the MOD BUG has bitten

i dont think i'll ever make my mind up lol .

just read ALEX CIMS topic a while back about converting. heap load of parts and labour involved with the clutch cyl position, pedals, handbreak, center console sourcing. costly in the end.

rebuild, i know its a strong unit then, able to hold more power, then taking a guess with a second hand box.

to many pro's and cons for this

just read ALEX CIMS topic a while back about converting. heap load of parts and labour involved with the clutch cyl position, pedals, handbreak, center console sourcing. costly in the end.

rebuild, i know its a strong unit then, able to hold more power, then taking a guess with a second hand box.

I convert my series 2 to a manual. It cost around $3000 for parts with centre console etc. Depends what clutch you. mine was a Jim berry at $900

I did some of the labour and paided some to do the box swap. Was another $600.

I think best option for now is grab a s/hand auto box for $200-400 and fit that. Then if you are keen, collect all the manual conversion parts over time and do the swap later.

Alex never did it, so he was only only guessing what was involved. Some of his threads are funny.

It is not that hard of a job to do with the right parts.

I convert my series 2 to a manual. It cost around $3000 for parts with centre console etc. Depends what clutch you. mine was a Jim berry at $900

I did some of the labour and paided some to do the box swap. Was another $600.

I think best option for now is grab a s/hand auto box for $200-400 and fit that. Then if you are keen, collect all the manual conversion parts over time and do the swap later.

Alex never did it, so he was only only guessing what was involved. Some of his threads are funny.

It is not that hard of a job to do with the right parts.

manual conversions are the sort of thing even me(who is over working on cars) will have a go at! i recon it could be done for 3k

clutch in my 1600 was awesome, and in traffic i would just let it part way out and roll in traffic, never used the throttle, so its still only one foot, like an auto :)

i dont see the point in buying another auto for the price of the labor for the conversion, just to bin it when you go manual, you have a second car, so park it and save for the manual!

just did the shift kit, sump off job . . . fluids all topped up , service kit also put in.

there getting their boss to have a look at it tomorrow.

oh yeah ANOTHER ISSUE .... when looking at Rebuild they kept looking at RE401'A'

then i told them it was a 'B' they all kind of looked at each other .... so i asked them ' you knew it was a B right, thats what i booked it in for '

thats where i got worried. hopefully the boss is very professional and works the shit out ...

OR you could get them to install the right f^(king kit!

If you booked it in for a 'B' and they installed the 'A', then they should fix their screwup

:banana: Goddamnit! Why is the customer expected to pay for a "specialist" mechanic's mistake? :/

Edited by iamhe77

ok guys talked to the boss man today.

ran me through all this mumbo jumbo about what he puts inside his boxes and all that. basically comes down to

Stock gear box will now become GEAR BOX ON STEROIDS!!! :D

doing a full rebuild on my box somthing they call STAGE 2 REBUILD good for around 350-400rwkw

and very afordable :D;) , so when i get the funds i will drop it in, he offerd to do it now and i pay him off (but i dont like being in debt to people) , very nice guy very nice indeed :D

ok guys talked to the boss man today.

ran me through all this mumbo jumbo about what he puts inside his boxes and all that. basically comes down to

Stock gear box will now become GEAR BOX ON STEROIDS!!! :banana:

doing a full rebuild on my box somthing they call STAGE 2 REBUILD good for around 350-400rwkw

and very afordable :D :D , so when i get the funds i will drop it in, he offerd to do it now and i pay him off (but i dont like being in debt to people) , very nice guy very nice indeed :D

PM me a ballpark figure if you dont mind :)

PM me a ballpark figure if you dont mind :D
Sounds like something similiar to what i just had done to mine.. Stronger clutches, kevler bands, all new steals and Stage 2 shift kit.. cost me $2200 from KEAS/GZM Automotive
I too would like to know the ballpark figure TJ.

Can you also tel me what they are doing to make it a "stage 2" kit.... and who is doing it of course!

$1800 . . . but im only paying $1330 next visit cause already got the Stage 1 valve body done. just havent got reverse cause the box cant keep up with PSI of the fluid going through the box, the box is just tired.

with the clutch packs there down it will be like 'brass button clutch' i think thats what they refered it to. when you can ride the clutch in a manual car, just rev and launch basically.

but being an auto, the clutch packs wont really kick in till changin from fisrt and second and so on. i.e manual quick shifting feeling.

all the bands will be stonger items also, as well as the orings. basically everything that can come out, will be replaced with new items and stronger items.

i'll be getting an e-mail from RVO PERFORMANCE sometime this weekend with a full list of whats goin in there :banana:

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