Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That is the CHRA that we normally use for GTR turbocharger high flowing. We will need your factory housings to carry it out. Or we can supply you 2x complete Garrett turbos. I will PM you a quote tomorrow.

so we can run the turbos with no blow of vavle?? by blocking up our stock one?

When i got my car it had been defected for an atmo bov so the previous owner had just blocked off the hole where the bov was, still seemed fine to me.

It is strongly recommended that you do keep a BOV. stock or aftermarket. The Surge pressure that comes back when throttle is shut can do lot of damages to the turbo.

Below is the commercial version of ATR43. This is now available. The turbo comes in 4x different profiles:

atr43front.jpg

atr43rear.jpg

ATR43G1: 450HP in . 58 / .63 rear

ATR43G2: 480HP in . 58 / .63 rear

ATR43G3: 520HP in .63 Rear

ATR43G4: 600HP in .84 rear

It is designed to bolton to your stock manifold, dump, water, and oil drain. Braided oil feeding line is required and priced at $80 with turbo. All turbos can be built with a Garrett GT Ball bearing CHRA depends on consumer's budget. To fit them to factory intake and intercooler pipes you will also need 2x silicon pipes one in 90 degrees 2inch and the other in 3inch straight.

ATR43's .58 and .63 Turbine housing is interchangeable with All ATR28Gx High flows that we've sold. Will gain instant power increasement specially to the ATR28G2 based R32 / R33 xIU high flows, Should have No issues archive upto 270rwkws with supporting moods.

The stock oil feeding line has a oil restriction valve. It is not suitable for sleeve bearing CHRAs. Also Garrett GT CHRAs runs off a different thread.

Sleeve bearing turbo require greater amount of oil flow. The bearings needs oil pressure to float. BB does not. BB turbos has roughly 10% better in response. Sleeve bearing turbos are cheaper to build and service.

ATR43Gx are made to be interchangeable with Garrett GT3071, GT3076, and GT3582 GT CHRAs.

So really comes down on the consumer's budget.

ATR43G1: 450HP in . 58 / .63 rear

ATR43G2: 480HP in . 58 / .63 rear

ATR43G3: 520HP in .63 Rear

ATR43G4: 600HP in .84 rear

Are these figures rear wheel or fly wheel?

What is the price for the G3 and G4 in both sleeve and bb?

those are fly figures, which i think is the standard way manu's spec their turbo's

I assumed that, just wanna be 100% sure.

Edited by W0rp3D
What is the price to rebuild a set of GTR turbos in both bearing forms?

To high flow GTR turbo using GT2860RS BB CHRA is $1350 each. And we can supply the Garrett unit brand new for $1400 so might not really be worth doing. To high flow with Sleeve bearing CHRA in identical spec is $800 each turbo.

chra.jpg

Below is the commercial version of ATR43. This is now available. The turbo comes in 4x different profiles:

atr43front.jpg

atr43rear.jpg

ATR43G1: 450HP in . 58 / .63 rear

ATR43G2: 480HP in . 58 / .63 rear

ATR43G3: 520HP in .63 Rear

ATR43G4: 600HP in .84 rear

It is designed to bolton to your stock manifold, dump, water, and oil drain. Braided oil feeding line is required and priced at $80 with turbo. All turbos can be built with a Garrett GT Ball bearing CHRA depends on consumer's budget. To fit them to factory intake and intercooler pipes you will also need 2x silicon pipes one in 90 degrees 2inch and the other in 3inch straight.

ATR43's .58 and .63 Turbine housing is interchangeable with All ATR28Gx High flows that we've sold. Will gain instant power increasement specially to the ATR28G2 based R32 / R33 xIU high flows, Should have No issues archive upto 270rwkws with supporting moods.

How much are the ATR43G3: 520HP in .63 Rear and the ATR43G4: 600HP in .84 rear for the rb25det, when should you be able to see full boost? and what is required for a direct bolt on to the rb25det?

Hmm, interested to see how the ATR43G3 with the .63 Rear would go on an RB20, how would it compare to say a 3071r?

I'm currently running a highflowed VG30 but looking for a little more power than it's currently making.

um be careful quoting prices here, this isn't trader / for sale?

are there any issues with cooking the bearings at engine power off vs ball bearing?

um be careful quoting prices here, this isn't trader / for sale?

He is a business trader and this thread was set up by him to tell everyone about his products, i dont see a dilemma with putting up prices.

Thats all cool. If I'm bending any rules I will fix it up. From experience BB turbos are more likely to get cooked. Most sleeve bearing turbos receives greater amount of oil flow and this is built built water cooled. So they are pretty fine.

The current Ball bearing turbos runs oil feeding pins on the top with 20thou wholes on both side, Not sure why Garrett designed it that way. But in lot of cases they gets filled from dirt in engine oil which allow bearings to cook. Then they becomes very expansive to overhaul. about 80% of Ball bearing overhaul jobs we currently getting has failed in that manner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...