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Z32 afm retails for $300+. Plus you have the cost of nistune or a PowerFC. A PowerFC alone costs more than one of these ecus. The price of a nistune + z32 afm and you are at the same or more cost as this map ecu.

The way I see it even if you spend $300 on a new z32 AFM, and 242 on a nistune board and 100 on a z32 8bit ecu your still in front and dont have a power fc or other obvious ecu that will get you an instant defect

The plugin ECU series fits into stock ECU casing. which is more stealth then Z32 ECUs. lol. It cost more for this aftermarket casing, as I'm selling my ECU with nistune chip. It supports Both AFM and MAP so you can keep afm if required.

I think no AFM is great as its lot easier to setup the intake pipe, you save money from buying the AFM, and there is one less part could go wrong.

I think no AFM is great as its lot easier to setup the intake pipe, you save money from buying the AFM, and there is one less part could go wrong.

Not really..

I've had a MAP sensor die, luckily the Haltech just utilises a Delco 3-bar sensor but it was still a f**karound and was about $150 to replace.

The other disadvantage to a MAP sensor is you don't notice cooler piping leaks, I had one for a long time that's only symptom was a slight shriek on boost, was still seeing 15psi at the manifold and the engine was running fine but the turbo was screaming its' head off.. god knows what it was actually making :ermm:

Use an external MAP sensor for reading engine load and then connect the internal map sensor to piping just after the turbo.

Log boost values and anything over a few psi difference could be seen as a leak or dodgy cooler.

The other disadvantage to a MAP sensor is you don't notice cooler piping leaks, I had one for a long time that's only symptom was a slight shriek on boost, was still seeing 15psi at the manifold and the engine was running fine but the turbo was screaming its' head off.. god knows what it was actually making :ermm:

thats the only downside but if you got a ebc, you can tell if theres a vaccum leak as the readings are different.

Use an external MAP sensor for reading engine load and then connect the internal map sensor to piping just after the turbo.

Log boost values and anything over a few psi difference could be seen as a leak or dodgy cooler.

That will work but it's starting to get a bit convoluted, that's why I will be running a boost gauge on turbo outlet and one on manifold.

thats the only downside but if you got a ebc, you can tell if theres a vaccum leak as the readings are different.

Depends how you have hooked the ebc up. I have it so the reference signal for the actuator is from the turbo elbow but the control unit gets its' signal from the plenum so it runs what I want it to run at the engine.

^^

Above high flows should produce around 320HP each or about 520HP as a twin.

are you able to post up some dyno sheets after the owner installs and tune his GTR with your hi flows?

i am still yet to decide whether to go back to a big single or keep my twin setup and hiflow my current turbos.

You said you have highflowed a set for a previous owner but he wasn't able to provide you with dyno sheets, so if you can get some evidence that these hiflows work well and aren't laggy (comparable response & power to -7 or -9s) then you will have yourself another customer. :D

The plugin ECU series fits into stock ECU casing. which is more stealth then Z32 ECUs. lol. It cost more for this aftermarket casing, as I'm selling my ECU with nistune chip. It supports Both AFM and MAP so you can keep afm if required.

I think no AFM is great as its lot easier to setup the intake pipe, you save money from buying the AFM, and there is one less part could go wrong.

This sounds interesting however I could not find any information about the plug-in ecu's fitting into the stock ecr33 ecu casing?

Can you also PM me a price for an ecu that will fit into my stock ecr33 casing please.

Great news the Adaptronic ECU. It worked beautifully today, and the car is very smooth to drive. Every thing worked out great, no glitches with their software, pretty easy interface, it worked on both AFM and MAP, but the MAP sensor is lot easier to tune. No head aces at all, Its perfect.

The car made 247rwkws at 17psi with the SS1 High flow.

DSC00412.JPG

Full boost of 19psi by 3400RPM on 9 sec dyno ramp. Its brilliant to drive on road.

power247rwkw.jpg

boost18psi.jpg

Regarding to the ECU I'm unable (not allowed) to retail it alone for under the RRP. How ever I can offer a generous amount of discount on total price if its purchased with any of our turbochargers or high flow services. I'll announce the discountable amount when ready.

Also big thanks to Trent, whom is a great tuner and have offered great customer care for this service. Above tune was done free of cost at his own time following earlier unsuccessful Nistune Z32 ecu attempt.

With the GTR high flows, I don't believe they are going to be responsive. They are better for top end. Like I would definitely recommend to use a big Single turbo over the twins.

Hey guys,

Just thought I should update the latest events with my car. Stao this is mainly for your benefit, though others here may remember I had been having some trouble with my car not making the power and lacking response.

I got my car retuned today by a different tuner (Sean, Allstar Garage). The car made 350rwhp@19psi (Sean wasn't keen to put more into it on the stock motor), full boost by ~3500rpm (compared to previous 4000ish). This was done on a hub dyno though, so I'm not sure how much that will have affected the results. In terms of drive-ability on the street, it feels much faster. It definitely comes on hard and pushes me back in my seat all the way to redline. 1st and 2nd are unusable unless I ease onto the throttle, and 3rd spins a bit as well if I stamp it. That's on near-new 245/40/18 semi-slicks.

So I have no idea what my previous issues were but I'm a happy customer now :D It is still a bit lower than the power level I was expecting, but it's not far off and I think with a bit more boost it may have got there. Having experienced what 4000rpm of lag feels like, I'm very content to stay at this power level and keep the response. Stao, thanks for all the support you gave me this whole time. I will upload the dyno sheet when I get a chance.

Stao, thanks for all the support you gave me this whole time. I will upload the dyno sheet when I get a chance.

Excellent news mate, I think most people on here expected it to be a tune related issue. I know I did.

350hp is 262.5kw, very nice result and good to hear its responsive too.

I got my car retuned today by a different tuner (Sean, Allstar Garage). The car made 350rwhp@19psi (Sean wasn't keen to put more into it on the stock motor), full boost by ~3500rpm (compared to previous 4000ish). This was done on a hub dyno though, so I'm not sure how much that will have affected the results. In terms of drive-ability on the street, it feels much faster. It definitely comes on hard and pushes me back in my seat all the way to redline. 1st and 2nd are unusable unless I ease onto the throttle, and 3rd spins a bit as well if I stamp it. That's on near-new 245/40/18 semi-slicks.

Sean won't put more than 19psi through your stock motor but is happy to smash 2 bar through mine haha

To give you some idea 350hp at the hubs is about 330rwhp on a dyno dynamics over here!

I can't remember what model of Hypergear turbo you have?!?

Edited by SimonR32

Sean won't put more than 19psi through your stock motor but is happy to smash 2 bar through mine haha

To give you some idea 350hp at the hubs is about 330rwhp on a dyno dynamics over here!

I can't remember what model of Hypergear turbo you have?!?

Yeh I thought that sounded about right. I was hoping for around 360-370rwhp on the dyno dynamics, but I'm not complaining. I have the ATR43G2, .64 rear housing. Got it before all these crazy new turbos started coming out :( lol

Great to hear, You car finally made power :thumbsup: . The G2 unit is made for about 250rwkws mark the max I managed to get out of it was 267rwkws and that was with plenty of boost. It did turn out to be a tuning related matter which I was suspecting from the very start.

The dyno dynamic's hub reading depending on their software, there was only 2kws variance in readings from local roller dyno vs Status hub dyno. I found readings from roller dynos seems to be affected from the quality of tyre used as well as how tight or firm the car was strapped down.

Hub dyno gives more accurate comparison in terms of RPM VS Power VS Torque VS Boost. How ever if the true reading on your hubs is 350rwhp then I would probably stick with that.

Any way, you can also ways go back for a dyno run on a roller dyno other then hyper-drives to see if power curve and figure varies. Or pump in more boost. :turned:

Yeh I thought that sounded about right. I was hoping for around 360-370rwhp on the dyno dynamics, but I'm not complaining. I have the ATR43G2, .64 rear housing. Got it before all these crazy new turbos started coming out :( lol

It's on the smaller side for the Hypergear turbos so power isn't too bad... You getting 15psi on the road in 4th at low 3000rpm?

It's on the smaller side for the Hypergear turbos so power isn't too bad... You getting 15psi on the road in 4th at low 3000rpm?

Yeh around that. Probably around 3200. Might do some data logging on the weekend to see exactly how it drives on the road.

As for your earlier comment about Sean not wanting to run more than 19psi; I realised this morning that I didn't tell him my car has had an engine swap. So he probably saw my odometer read 166xxxkms and thought it best to leave it at 19, when really my engine/gearbox/driveshaft etc. only have ~70xxx on them.

Yeh around that. Probably around 3200. Might do some data logging on the weekend to see exactly how it drives on the road.

As for your earlier comment about Sean not wanting to run more than 19psi; I realised this morning that I didn't tell him my car has had an engine swap. So he probably saw my odometer read 166xxxkms and thought it best to leave it at 19, when really my engine/gearbox/driveshaft etc. only have ~70xxx on them.

It was a joke :) He is a good mate and knows me well enough to know that if we popped the motor from silly boost I wouldn't blame him. I don't think he would be like that with his normal customers :pirate:

Edited by SimonR32

It was a joke :) He is a good mate and knows me well enough to know that if we popped the motor from silly boost I wouldn't blame him. I don't think he would be like that with his normal customers :pirate:

Fair enough then lol. I'm sure my motor would be able to handle a bit more, but I respect him for wanting to keep it safe. He's a gun tuner :thumbsup:

Great to hear, You car finally made power :thumbsup: . The G2 unit is made for about 250rwkws mark the max I managed to get out of it was 267rwkws and that was with plenty of boost. It did turn out to be a tuning related matter which I was suspecting from the very start.

The dyno dynamic's hub reading depending on their software, there was only 2kws variance in readings from local roller dyno vs Status hub dyno. I found readings from roller dynos seems to be affected from the quality of tyre used as well as how tight or firm the car was strapped down.

Hub dyno gives more accurate comparison in terms of RPM VS Power VS Torque VS Boost. How ever if the true reading on your hubs is 350rwhp then I would probably stick with that.

Any way, you can also ways go back for a dyno run on a roller dyno other then hyper-drives to see if power curve and figure varies. Or pump in more boost. :turned:

Thanks mate, I'm sure I'll get involved in another dyno competition at some stage so I'll see how it goes on a roller dyno then.

Just as a matter of interest, if I wanted to upgrade my turbo at a later stage to one of your newer designs, how much would I be looking at?? Also, how much feedback have you had on your externally gated units?

Edited by Hanaldo

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