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so true chocco. there would be so many tuners out there who would be sick of pieces of shit that are half done coming into there workshop and them saying man give me 250kws with my budget turbo and ebay this and ebay that.

EFI are good and tune alot of FAST reliable cars.

you sir have problems with your car, get it fixed then u might get your 250kw u are after.

if u cant even dump it at 5k without clutch slipping , sorry 2 tell u but u might want 2 throw that clutch in the pissa

The receipt just says dyno tuning, il find the receipt to clarify if it was 4 or 5 hours as I'm not sure off the top of my head.

It went in there with zero known problems, up until now the only indication something is wrong is the boost drop. Still with the tune i got I will happily not recommend them to anyone ever. I only went there because they were recommend by someone with a stagea. I thought they may have some idea what they are doing. I was warned not to go there by people with other cars, obviously they were right.

I have very limited tuning knowledge but if someone wants to let me use their nistune password I will tune my car myself and if I don't get a better result then them I will admit that they are not completely useless.

The way this is panning out your throwing it in the to hard basket cause your on the raw end. Its just so much easier to blame some1

else instead of taking the blame regardless if its for a blown gasket, a boost leak or wateva it may be. At the end of the day you cant

polish a f**kin nugget so theres no point in bagging out a workshop for something they did which you instructed them to do.

Heres my car tune it. Ok they will tune it on the basis that you give them a car thats ready to be tuned...or you could of gone in and said

heres my car, go over it first and call me to inform me of any dramas it may or may not have then go ahead.

+1 to this. I have just dropped my car off before at a tuners and picked it up after they closed. Even good tuners will just tune the car as is. If there is a mechanical problem (incorrect sensor, boost leak etc) they will not troubleshoot this as technically you have just asked them for a tune as is.

My current tuner is excellent and is happy for you to be there while they tune it. That way when he finds a problem you can help troubleshoot and put importance on finding the fix. Then you can either say look stop the tuning there I will fix the problem and come back or can you please try this.

Some tuners wont like you being there, one solution to this is make sure you come down within their opening hours and ask to take the car for a drive before you pay. Then if you find anything tell them straight away, either get them to come with you or get them to drive it in that situation. Repeat this and I know you cant cover everything for example cold start etc. If you discover something else then call them and discuss the issue and bring it back. Most tuners will happily work with you if you have a problem you can show them with the tune but most are forced to keep moving through cars as quickly as possible.

It can also be good to tell them what power to expect. You can say if it doesnt make 250kw give me a call and stop the tuning cause something is wrong.

Tuning is such a tricky business cause what if they guy spent 20 hours troubleshooting, fixed all the issues, made a solid 250rwkw and then charged you $3k would you be happy then? Prob not. Yeah I know the easy answer is for them to call you and discuss the result but unfortunately it never seems to happen. This is especially the case when you have quite a lot of changes, if you are confident with your setup and are just changing one thing then you can probably just leave them to it. But my advice is work with them as much as possible, tell them what you expect, test it before you pay and take it back when you discover a problem afterwards.

It went in there with zero known problems, up until now the only indication something is wrong is the boost drop. Still with the tune i got I will happily not recommend them to anyone ever. I only went there because they were recommend by someone with a stagea. I thought they may have some idea what they are doing. I was warned not to go there by people with other cars, obviously they were right.

Zero known problems with a factory turbo and only ever 13-14psi. You have now installed a new turbo, new piping, run a higher boost level then ever before. There are countless people that have issues when they first fit a larger turbo. You need to work through these and then you can chuck on whatever turbo you want and get the result you expect. Such problems are intake piping, intercooler piping, intercooler performance, exhaust restrictions, slipping clutch etc.

I'm not on here for a dick measuring contest, I came on here to attempt to get a solution from people who may have had similar problems. I understand that yes if my car went in with a problem and they tuned it to the best they could that's all they can do. I'm not saying anything other wise. There is only 3 things that can be causing my boost loss. Turbo not making the boost, intercooler causing restriction and air filter causing restriction. How many people on here are using the stock air box? How much power are you making? What brand intercooler are you using?

Oh I do have one stupid question. I have 2 air leaks in my pipework when pressurized from the afm pipe. My bov outlet has a pin hole between the bov and the outlet. And one of my tapper cover breathers, the system will hold 25/30psi when I put my finger over the breather, is this normal?

Edited by lilcrash

Yup point was though its not a "turbo" back exhaust :)

Exactly, its a sport wagon not a street dragging weapon (in most cases).

my bad, i meant i have only got a full turbo back exhaust

I'm not trying to be a twat here, but if your attitude on the net matches you in person, then I wouldn't call you back either.

Lets face it, you have a tiny turbo on a 2.5L engine to maintain stock response, I would buy one knowing that its not going to be able to pump 25psi at 7000rpm

You can blame the tuner all you want, but they are not the issue, it will be something you have chosen to do to the car, it might very well be the turbo, or it might be the exhaust you bought or the cat is blocked.

As a perfect example, I had my car on a dyno for a touch up tune, after running 20psi for 12 months with no issues we couldnt go over 13psi on the dyno due to a missfire and overheating.

Did I go blame the tuner because of something that was my responsibility? No!

With new turbo setups I always prepare to have te car tuned twice, 1st time to run it up and find issues, 2nd time to finalize the tune after any issues are sorted

,

I'm not on here for a dick measuring contest, I came on here to attempt to get a solution from people who may have had similar problems. I understand that yes if my car went in with a problem and they tuned it to the best they could that's all they can do. I'm not saying anything other wise. There is only 3 things that can be causing my boost loss. Turbo not making the boost, intercooler causing restriction and air filter causing restriction. How many people on here are using the stock air box? How much power are you making? What brand intercooler are you using?

Oh I do have one stupid question. I have 2 air leaks in my pipework when pressurized from the afm pipe. My bov outlet has a pin hole between the bov and the outlet. And one of my tapper cover breathers, the system will hold 25/30psi when I put my finger over the breather, is this normal?

i'll be back on the gold coast in less than a month if your still having issues nd want a hand with stuff

No I'm not a dick in real life, just having a bad day. If you have seen my posts in the past you can see the days that work f**ks me around. I don't have any work until Friday and I have to look busy until then.

I am lost as to what I should do next, is there any real world differences between the r33 and c34 rb25 that would make a turbo act differently on them? Also has anyone else had issues with tin turbo flange gaskets?

Here is a summary of what is fitted to my car. Tell menif something sticks out as bad

K&n panel filter - z32 afm - atr43 ss-1 - jjr return flow intercooler - Nissan 450cc injectors - jjr dump pipe - single cell cat -hks high power cat back(also got 3 inch pipe into twin 3 inch pipe tips to replace the rear section that I tried, lost power/use more fuel) - walbro gss 341.

If you pressure tested the intake with no boost leaks to 20psi, have tried dropping the dump and dropping the pod/intake, then the next step is a non return flow intercooler imo.

Also confirm there is no exhaust -> turbo gasket leak.

Thats why I'm wondering if anyone has had issues with those tin gaskets, bolts are all tight.

Would it be bad to do a quick run without an intercooler?

Edited by lilcrash

Thats why I'm wondering if anyone has had issues with those tin gaskets, bolts are all tight.

Would it be bad to do a quick run without an intercooler?

if you got a gasket leak, you can definitely tell as you can hear it.

I wouldn't rule out the tuner, it is all about the tune after all. In my case, I spent hundreds of dollars replacing parts and fixing non-existent issues, chasing a problem that turned out to be my tuner. And I still wouldn't bad mouth him, he is easily one of the top 3 tuners in WA and is supposed to be the bees knees with NIStune, but for whatever reason he just couldn't do my car properly. I still recommend him wholeheartedly to others; unless they are using a Hypergear turbo...

That said, your problem doesn't appear to be the tuner, it certainly looks hardware related. I wouldn't go around saying the tuner is useless until you have found the problem and can safely say it was the tuners fault, because if it turns out that it was an underlying issue with your car and nothing to do with them then it's you who ends up with egg on your face. Looking at your mods, the two things that stand out at me are the intercooler and the injectors. However if your injectors were being maxed then the tuner could tell you that, and they shouldn't quite be maxed yet anyway. So I would be ruling out the intercooler first. Also, are you sure you got a genuine Z32 afm and not a fake?

Edited by Hanaldo

That's what I thought. Yer it holds 30 psi with the tappet cover breather blocked. The injectors should be good for over 400hp and I'm not even close to 400 yet. And if my z32 is a fake then I will be super pissed, it cost me $320.

Here is a summary of what is fitted to my car. Tell menif something sticks out as bad

jjr return flow intercooler (this is probably causing most of your pressure drop)

jjr dump pipe (if this is the normal bellmouth its perfect, but if this is a 'split dump' with a divorced wastegate pipe then you can almost bet your ass its costing you problems)

hks high power cat back(also got 3 inch pipe into twin 3 inch pipe tips to replace the rear section that I tried, lost power/use more fuel) (I had a good 3" HKS system and found the middle muffer had partly collapsed and I could not spool or make power to save a life)

I hope this is helpful and gets you searching along.

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