Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I didnt touch anything. It's just not making as much boost now

I think either exhaust leak or intake leak. I know you pressure tested the intake, but I'm not convinced. These are the only two things that could really cause a big boost drop.

I personally had an issue where the wrong gasket was used in the two halves of the intake manifold, meant cylinder 3 and 4 were leaking badly but the rest sealed fine. Meant a boost drop in the high revs and was extremely hard to diagnose, went 2 years before finding the issue.

Could be something like this.

I think its best to send it back and swap for a FNT G3, I can give you my 330rwkws nistune map, load it in and see if that changes boost and power behavior, That turbo should also suit your driving style better.

Stao, the G3 comes with the big 3082/3540 .70 comp cover does it not?, have you tried fitting these comp covers to a stagea yet? If they do they must just about sit on the chassis rail. After beeing at my mates last night while he was fitting a 3076 with a 10mm spacer to a stagea, , theres only 10mm clearance to the rail with that setup and the spacer i have is 3-4mm larger spacer and the comp cover is much larger again .

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

I can use. 60 comp housings thats not an issue. .70 fits fine on skylines with a 15mm spacer, including the actuator bracket it sits pretty close to the chassis. We supply the spacer as a part of the turbo.

I can use. 60 comp housings thats not an issue. .70 fits fine on skylines with a 15mm spacer, including the actuator bracket it sits pretty close to the chassis. We supply the spacer as a part of the turbo.

Am I likely to have any fitment issues going from my current ATR43G2 (.63 housing) to the new turbo, Stao? Or is the 4" intake the only thing I should need to change?

Larger comp housing has better power to boost ratio, and keeps discharging temp lower. It has similar effects as having an larger turbine housing but not as significant. So unless special request all turbos above 500HP will be built with .70 comp housing as default. I've engineered the actuator bracket and spacer to fit stock exhaust manifold and dump. It will require a 4inch intake pipe with a pod and a 2.5 inches 90 degrees silicon pipe for the outlet.

The re-worked SS3 is fitted today and due for dyno test Tuesday. At this stage it feels similar to the G3 with noticeably better response. I'm hopping for around the 350rwkws assume injectors don’t run out.

Any way, my current SS-2 made super responsive 307rwkws on 20psi my dynosheet is at the rb25det dyno section.

I think we have brushed over this result. What a fantastic result from the SS2 307rwkw on 98 fuel with excellent response and full boost by 3600rpm!

Post #763 in the RB25 dyno results thread on page 39.

I think its worth also posting the dynosheets in this thread as well kwickr33.

I compared it to my SS1 result, SS1 makes 10-20kw more power below 3600rpm, same power at 3600rpm and then the SS2 kills it from then on by up to 50-60kw at some points!

Imagine E85!!!

There are my SS-2 results that I've posted in the dynosection earlier:

post-31034-0-87076600-1319554530_thumb.jpg post-31034-0-68326900-1319554610_thumb.jpg

The turbo is very responsive, with linear power delivery and super wide power band. It doesn't have much power spike. Super smooth on road.

I've also had an massive ATR45 for 2 years prior this turbo, that had a huge power spike after 5000rpms with short power band. How ever I recon that turbo pulled harder then the SS2 in high 3rd and 4th WOT, but drivability is no way near as good. The SS2 is definitely an excellent road performer.

Edited by kwickr33

There are my SS-2 results that I've posted in the dynosection earlier:

post-31034-0-87076600-1319554530_thumb.jpg post-31034-0-68326900-1319554610_thumb.jpg

The turbo is very responsive, with linear power delivery and super wide power band. It doesn't have much power spike. Super smooth on road.

I've also had an massive ATR45 for 2 years prior this turbo, that had a huge power spike after 5000rpms with short power band. How ever I recon that turbo pulled harder then the SS2 in high 3rd and 4th WOT, but drivability is no way near as good. The SS2 is definitely an excellent road performer.

I did want to ask, is that dyno graph yours?

The top of the graph says 'R33 Tao Hypergear'.....

Is that just a mistake or are you uploading the graph for that turbo off Stao's car?

Thats pretty good result. I've been testing the new G3 and SS3 lately, Any way, didn't go very successful last night the SS3 prototype with larger housing only made 316rwkws on 22psi.

power.jpg

boosti.jpg

compare to earlier run with 304rwkws it appears the smaller turbine housing actually worked better.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Going larger in turbine housing made no difference in top end power apart from gain lag. Not too sure if the exhaust manifold is causing restrictions or some thing else is stopping flow.

There has been few updates with std R33 and R34 high flows plus one new turbine housing that I want to trail for the G3. After those I will be going for a proper high mount setup with external gate trailing bigger turbos.

As far as stock bolton series, there isn't much point going beyond a G3 which is out flowing the stock manifold.

Stao do u mind posting a close up clear view of your engine bay - I would like to see a close up view of your 4 inch metal intake pipe, Z32 mounting and turbo/ actuator/ dump if possible.. Trying to set my car up like yours, it is off the road now and I'm thinking of getting one of your turbos as my final mod...currently I need the injectors, Z32, dump and 4inch intake.. cheers :cheers:

There are my SS-2 results that I've posted in the dynosection earlier:

post-31034-0-87076600-1319554530_thumb.jpg post-31034-0-68326900-1319554610_thumb.jpg

The turbo is very responsive, with linear power delivery and super wide power band. It doesn't have much power spike. Super smooth on road.

I've also had an massive ATR45 for 2 years prior this turbo, that had a huge power spike after 5000rpms with short power band. How ever I recon that turbo pulled harder then the SS2 in high 3rd and 4th WOT, but drivability is no way near as good. The SS2 is definitely an excellent road performer.

Terry thats a very impressive result, does this turbo suck you back HARD into your seat?? Thats what I'm after, a very responsive 280-300rwkw hypergear turbo that throws u brutally on your seat..:thumbsup: - quick and hard response -- dunno which one I need SS2 or SS1.5 or SS pu --- very confused..

Agree that hitting 4k on traffic to get boost makes u look like a wanker, so out of those three turbos above, Im still confused which is the smaller one - am looking for min or at least 280rwkw and very possible 300rwkw..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...