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Should make a tinny sound which is from air travelling through the pipe and inlet of the turbo. pretty normal. How ever, your compressor wheel had some stone chips from object sucked in I probabaly want to check it out and make sure its still within balance range.

That is how it sounds, a light tinny sound. I need to get the turbo back to you but I can't be without a car at the moment... Still need to fix up my intake pipe. Its been knocking since I changed it so this may indicate more flow.

Been busy working on one very one's jobs. This is a little update on a prototype which converts a standard bush bearing ATR43G3 FNT turbo on ceramic rollers. Took it for a thrash on 20psi its noticeably more responsive in lower gears and made power delivery even more linear. How ever I don't think thats enough to shown a difference on the dyno. Will post some results once tuned.

This is also a simpler, cheaper and more efficient roller setup then the earlier alfa prototypes without direct force feeding in bearing oil supply. There for it should be less sensitive to common oil contamination issues. If every thing works out well we will be building ceramic roller units without much additional cost.

Can you do this on high flows? by "without direct force feeding in bearing oil supply" do you mean it runs on grease or no longer require engine's oil supply?

He means it works the same as a normal turbo, rather than having oil feed directly going to the bearing itself.

Standard oil feed goes in the top of the turbo and sprays in to lubricate all.

Is there a % of duty that when you start to go over starts to affect performance?

depends on the injector, many cars actually run 100% factory like some hondas but nissan injectors hate it and can bounce and miss time @ over 96%... many aftermarket injectors actually play up at 100% duty as well... ie not deliver corectley... bouncing on seats etc.

If your running a high duty won't the injector be firing when the inlet valve is shut? Does this affect power or performance?

If you run a stock ECU or nistune it is batch fire anyway so no. But greater the duty yeah that is generally true, how much difference will it make? Probably sfa.

what kind of restriction would you expect if you used a 3" intake pipe on the new 4" atr43g3?

I've been told having the AFM sitting on front of the turbo would restrict around 5kws, Mine Made 318rwkws on 3inch pipe to air box with no lid, and 330rwkws on 4inch with pod. Minior differences, bigger's better.

I'm getting some 4inches intake pipes suitting stock bov and breather made with bend and nipples for the stock BOV and breather. Will post photos and prices when ready.

sr20intakepipe.jpg

Crans: send it in when ever you are ready. I will thrash the ceramic roller and do some dyno runs making sure I can't blow it up before giving it out for testing.

If your running a high duty won't the injector be firing when the inlet valve is shut? Does this affect power or performance?

Think about how fast things are happening. The airflow hardly stops.

Some observations about the SS1-PU installation:

(I was hoping it would be direct fit apart from the oil feed which is supplied but.....)

-Housings need to be clocked around a little to fit

-The oil drain doesnt reach, we need to run a longer rubber line to join the turbo end the motor end

-One of the stock water lines needs to be bent to fit - not a tiny bend but its doable

-The other water line (from the back of the head) is no where near fitting

This hard line meets a rubber hose around the back of the head which then joins a feed at the intake manifold.

To work around this problem we will run a longer rubber hose from the intake manifold and join it to the hard pipe further along, enough so that we can fit the line.

post-2685-0-84805700-1320710192_thumb.jpg

Crans: send it in when ever you are ready. I will thrash the ceramic roller and do some dyno runs making sure I can't blow it up before giving it out for testing.

How long till there ready? If im sending the turbo back for upgrades id rather wait and go all out.

The SS1PUs needs abit more work on installation, check page 1, there is a DIY thread with video teaching installation of water lines at

Installation walk through

Water lines needs to be lose fitted before fixing turbo on to the exhaust manifold. The bracket holding it on the engine head must be removed. Other wise there it is lot harder to do.

I'm planing to take the ceramic roller for the next few comming track days and see how every thing holds up. Its need to provide better result then standard bush setup before I would want to sale them. Its going to be a while.

Thanks!

The stock lines ended up fitting with bending only and rather than using washers to space out the banjo it was machined down to the correct size.

The SS1PUs needs abit more work on installation, check page 1, there is a DIY thread with video teaching installation of water lines at

Installation walk through

Water lines needs to be lose fitted before fixing turbo on to the exhaust manifold. The bracket holding it on the engine head must be removed. Other wise there it is lot harder to do.

I'm planing to take the ceramic roller for the next few comming track days and see how every thing holds up. Its need to provide better result then standard bush setup before I would want to sale them. Its going to be a while.

New turbo just arrived... Good son of rajab blink.gif It's big lol. It's very hard to believe it will fit down low, I'm anticipating many a cuss word to be uttered sleep.gif

Where can I get a 4" to 3" silicon reducer from?

Just got the new G3, externally gated. Massive compared to my current turbo lol.

I found all the silicon joiners I'll need through Turbotech. Will get new gaskets and washers while I'm at it.

atr43g3exgate5.JPG

Its best to keep afm in cooler piping and run a 4inch intake with a large pod filter as I've found the 3inch makes about 15kws less.

I've added a installation tip for people whom's running internal gated ATR43 units in page 1: Remove the actuator and bracket pre turbo installation, which would leave plenty of room for tools. Then install the actautor assembly back on once the turbo installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is pre-loaded.

Also there seems to be abit of debate over the 11 long bladed vs 12 long n short bladed wheels. I've drawn and cut a 11 bladed version of the SS1PU's comp wheel using the same wheel hub.

atr43ss1pu11blade.JPG

The original SS1PU felt more responsive on road, I'm pretty keen to see what the dyno says next monday.

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