Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

[hypergear]

The boost level seems to be affected by temperture. Just had few very hot days in Melbourne and the high pressure actuator seems to be holding 18psi instead of the 22psi when its cool.

Also shouldn't the engine run rough as with the tooth skipt on the cam gear?

[Bitsushiti]

I'll be looking at getting a hypergear hiflow done soon (as I'm only going to be chasing around ~230rwkw) and will have two turbos available:

a stock 45V1 VG30 ball bearing turbo, and a stock 45V4 on my 1996 series 2 RB25DET

Which one would be better suited for hiflowing with responsiveness being the priority?

[hypergear]

Can Make around 260rwkws with the VG30 turbine housing. stock Rb25det housings are good for around the 240rwkws mark. Either of them would be good enough for the goal of 230rwkws.

[Bitsushiti]

Thanks Stao, I'll hit you up for a quote shortly for the VG30 to be hiflowed

[Harey]

Under that rubber pipe is just a white plastic hose that dumps condensation when A/C is on. The water comes in due to the car's acceleration momentum, get a rubber plug in that size then cut the center section out for that plastic hose. That would stop any water drain in to the cabinet.

Just had a look then and my a/c rubber pipe doesnt have any white plastic hose underneath? The whole top half of the black rubber a/c hose is burnt on mine. Couldnt work out where it comes into the cabin or how to put a rubber plug anywhere??

[GeorgesR34]

Just had a look then and my a/c rubber pipe doesnt have any white plastic hose underneath? The whole top half of the black rubber a/c hose is burnt on mine. Couldnt work out where it comes into the cabin or how to put a rubber plug anywhere??

There is a white coloured hard rubber pipe under that rubber, water comes out of there when the A/C is on. Just make a plug from a bit of materials in Clark rubber for the frame and cut a hole in the center for that plastic pipe. That would stop any water drop draining into the cabinet. or just connect what ever bit of hose on to that pipe.

Is your dump a JJR item as well?

[Harey]

There is a white coloured hard rubber pipe under that rubber, water comes out of there when the A/C is on. Just make a plug from a bit of materials in Clark rubber for the frame and cut a hole in the center for that plastic pipe. That would stop any water drop draining into the cabinet. or just connect what ever bit of hose on to that pipe.

Is your dump a JJR item as well?

Mine is just flexi rubber hose, I can bend it and because the whole front is melted I can see inside and theres nothing white inside.

I cant workout where it joins inside the cabin.

Yes its a JJR dump pipe.

[GeorgesR34]

Seems to be an common issue using HG turbo on JJR front pipes. Pull that rubber piece off and there is a hard plastic pipe in it. Water comes out of there.

Edited December 11, 2011 by GeorgesR34

[t_revz]

am interested in this as i will be going HG in a couple months. since my engine bay is stripped out ill try to get detailed photos up tonight so we can all have a good look

[SargeRX8]

I've got about an inch space, I run the ss2 and a jjr dump...

Edited December 12, 2011 by SargeRX8

[t_revz]

I've got about an inch space, I run the ss2 and a jjr dump...

we will be in the same boat then

[SargeRX8]

Another SS2 owner. Keen to see how your unit performs! I SHOULD TECHNICALLY have everything up to scratch to now be making 280rwkw+. Just need the tune part.

[rondofj]

Hey Sarge hows ur new intake pipe and lean popping issue? I just ordered me a set of YJ coilpacks, did u have issues with yours?

[Harey]

am interested in this as i will be going HG in a couple months. since my engine bay is stripped out ill try to get detailed photos up tonight so we can all have a good look

That would be awesome if you can take some photos so we can all have a good look!! Hard to see with everything in the way.

[SargeRX8]

Hey Sarge hows ur new intake pipe and lean popping issue? I just ordered me a set of YJ coilpacks, did u have issues with yours?

Lean popping wasn't an issue, I don't think. There was nothing there causing the lean pop and after fitting the AFR gauge it was showing that it was running around 13's which alot of have said will cause lean pop. I got rid of it by richening up the idle mix. Some people run 17.1 afr on idle and they put up with lean pop, I tried it and f**king lol no way in hell. It sounds like shit and the car feels like a rough v8 on idle. New intake pipe should be good. No more rubber or tight corner, a nice 90 degree 3" all the way through. It seems to have fixed my coming off boost stalling issue!

I had issues with them, I got a refund and got brand new OEM coils.

[Harey]

Lean popping wasn't an issue, I don't think. There was nothing there causing the lean pop and after fitting the AFR gauge it was showing that it was running around 13's which alot of have said will cause lean pop. I got rid of it by richening up the idle mix. Some people run 17.1 afr on idle and they put up with lean pop, I tried it and f**king lol no way in hell. It sounds like shit and the car feels like a rough v8 on idle. New intake pipe should be good. No more rubber or tight corner, a nice 90 degree 3" all the way through. It seems to have fixed my coming off boost stalling issue!

I had issues with them, I got a refund and got brand new OEM coils.

I found when I angled the bov return and pcv valve return towards the turbo inlet and away from the afm it solved my off boost stalling issue.

[SargeRX8]

I found when I angled the bov return and pcv valve return towards the turbo inlet and away from the afm it solved my off boost stalling issue.

Its not so much the breather line as that is just under vacuum, no air gets pushed through it, shit is sucked through it, its more the BOV return which if when it releases the boost in the system, it hits the AFM, it goes into a fueling mode, adds fuel and stalls.

[rondofj]

Its not so much the breather line as that is just under vacuum, no air gets pushed through it, shit is sucked through it, its more the BOV return which if when it releases the boost in the system, it hits the AFM, it goes into a fueling mode, adds fuel and stalls.

I think you hit the nail on the head with this statement. I remember u had a lean popping issue when u changed ur intake earlier, and maybe this was the reason above. Where'd u get those two little breather pipes with the rolled edges thats welded onto ur intake?

[SargeRX8]

I think you hit the nail on the head with this statement. I remember u had a lean popping issue when u changed ur intake earlier, and maybe this was the reason above. Where'd u get those two little breather pipes with the rolled edges thats welded onto ur intake?

When I made my intake pipe, it was near impossible to run the standard BOV return so I chopped off the end and rather than throwing it out, I used it as the bung to weld on. If you are anal about it and want the edges rolled like that, buy another one that someone is selling (they are cheap) and cut as long or short as you need to line up with your bov return. I also ran a catch can so the hard return line for the oil side wasn't necessary.

[t_revz]

so looks like if the hose gets blocked it will flood the car. also if its squashed or pulled in the wrong direction it will also get into the car. i might try cut it a little shorter and slip a bit of hose over the white tube and have it running down the inside of the black hose.

i cant see how the hose melting makes the water get into the car unless its blocking the hose when it melts

Edited December 12, 2011 by t_revz