Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The boost level seems to be affected by temperture. Just had few very hot days in Melbourne and the high pressure actuator seems to be holding 18psi instead of the 22psi when its cool.

Also shouldn't the engine run rough as with the tooth skipt on the cam gear?

I'll be looking at getting a hypergear hiflow done soon (as I'm only going to be chasing around ~230rwkw) and will have two turbos available:

a stock 45V1 VG30 ball bearing turbo, and a stock 45V4 on my 1996 series 2 RB25DET

Which one would be better suited for hiflowing with responsiveness being the priority?

Can Make around 260rwkws with the VG30 turbine housing. stock Rb25det housings are good for around the 240rwkws mark. Either of them would be good enough for the goal of 230rwkws.

Under that rubber pipe is just a white plastic hose that dumps condensation when A/C is on. The water comes in due to the car's acceleration momentum, get a rubber plug in that size then cut the center section out for that plastic hose. That would stop any water drain in to the cabinet.

Just had a look then and my a/c rubber pipe doesnt have any white plastic hose underneath? The whole top half of the black rubber a/c hose is burnt on mine. Couldnt work out where it comes into the cabin or how to put a rubber plug anywhere??

Just had a look then and my a/c rubber pipe doesnt have any white plastic hose underneath? The whole top half of the black rubber a/c hose is burnt on mine. Couldnt work out where it comes into the cabin or how to put a rubber plug anywhere??

There is a white coloured hard rubber pipe under that rubber, water comes out of there when the A/C is on. Just make a plug from a bit of materials in Clark rubber for the frame and cut a hole in the center for that plastic pipe. That would stop any water drop draining into the cabinet. or just connect what ever bit of hose on to that pipe.

Is your dump a JJR item as well?

There is a white coloured hard rubber pipe under that rubber, water comes out of there when the A/C is on. Just make a plug from a bit of materials in Clark rubber for the frame and cut a hole in the center for that plastic pipe. That would stop any water drop draining into the cabinet. or just connect what ever bit of hose on to that pipe.

Is your dump a JJR item as well?

Mine is just flexi rubber hose, I can bend it and because the whole front is melted I can see inside and theres nothing white inside.

I cant workout where it joins inside the cabin.

Yes its a JJR dump pipe.

Seems to be an common issue using HG turbo on JJR front pipes. Pull that rubber piece off and there is a hard plastic pipe in it. Water comes out of there.

Edited by GeorgesR34

am interested in this as i will be going HG in a couple months. since my engine bay is stripped out ill try to get detailed photos up tonight so we can all have a good look :thumbsup:

am interested in this as i will be going HG in a couple months. since my engine bay is stripped out ill try to get detailed photos up tonight so we can all have a good look :thumbsup:

That would be awesome if you can take some photos so we can all have a good look!! Hard to see with everything in the way.

Hey Sarge hows ur new intake pipe and lean popping issue? I just ordered me a set of YJ coilpacks, did u have issues with yours?pinch.gif

Lean popping wasn't an issue, I don't think. There was nothing there causing the lean pop and after fitting the AFR gauge it was showing that it was running around 13's which alot of have said will cause lean pop. I got rid of it by richening up the idle mix. Some people run 17.1 afr on idle and they put up with lean pop, I tried it and f**king lol no way in hell. It sounds like shit and the car feels like a rough v8 on idle. New intake pipe should be good. No more rubber or tight corner, a nice 90 degree 3" all the way through. It seems to have fixed my coming off boost stalling issue!

I had issues with them, I got a refund and got brand new OEM coils.

Lean popping wasn't an issue, I don't think. There was nothing there causing the lean pop and after fitting the AFR gauge it was showing that it was running around 13's which alot of have said will cause lean pop. I got rid of it by richening up the idle mix. Some people run 17.1 afr on idle and they put up with lean pop, I tried it and f**king lol no way in hell. It sounds like shit and the car feels like a rough v8 on idle. New intake pipe should be good. No more rubber or tight corner, a nice 90 degree 3" all the way through. It seems to have fixed my coming off boost stalling issue!

I had issues with them, I got a refund and got brand new OEM coils.

I found when I angled the bov return and pcv valve return towards the turbo inlet and away from the afm it solved my off boost stalling issue.

I found when I angled the bov return and pcv valve return towards the turbo inlet and away from the afm it solved my off boost stalling issue.

;) Its not so much the breather line as that is just under vacuum, no air gets pushed through it, shit is sucked through it, its more the BOV return which if when it releases the boost in the system, it hits the AFM, it goes into a fueling mode, adds fuel and stalls.

post-68383-0-91892400-1323670662_thumb.jpg

;) Its not so much the breather line as that is just under vacuum, no air gets pushed through it, shit is sucked through it, its more the BOV return which if when it releases the boost in the system, it hits the AFM, it goes into a fueling mode, adds fuel and stalls.

I think you hit the nail on the head with this statement. I remember u had a lean popping issue when u changed ur intake earlier, and maybe this was the reason above. Where'd u get those two little breather pipes with the rolled edges thats welded onto ur intake?

I think you hit the nail on the head with this statement. I remember u had a lean popping issue when u changed ur intake earlier, and maybe this was the reason above. Where'd u get those two little breather pipes with the rolled edges thats welded onto ur intake?

When I made my intake pipe, it was near impossible to run the standard BOV return so I chopped off the end and rather than throwing it out, I used it as the bung to weld on. If you are anal about it and want the edges rolled like that, buy another one that someone is selling (they are cheap) and cut as long or short as you need to line up with your bov return. I also ran a catch can so the hard return line for the oil side wasn't necessary.

so looks like if the hose gets blocked it will flood the car. also if its squashed or pulled in the wrong direction it will also get into the car. i might try cut it a little shorter and slip a bit of hose over the white tube and have it running down the inside of the black hose.

post-24655-0-36587300-1323683695_thumb.jpg

post-24655-0-33702100-1323683722_thumb.jpg

post-24655-0-54850100-1323683746_thumb.jpg

i cant see how the hose melting makes the water get into the car unless its blocking the hose when it melts

Edited by t_revz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...