Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interesting to see that he could only make similar ~280rwkw as well whereas on your car and others it has made 300rwkw+. Wonder what is/was holding them back.

Note he was only running 18psi, I made 289rwkw@18psi on my hub dyno run, so quite similar. I believe Stao on his 320rwkw run was boosting to 23psi? In any case, I'd say you will need to run at least 20psi to crack the 300 mark on pump 98.

Edited by Hanaldo

Yup can see the improvement there. Also the hit of boost is slightly smoother so would give the tyres a bit more chance of holding on with the FNT.

Interesting to see that he could only make similar ~280rwkw as well whereas on your car and others it has made 300rwkw+. Wonder what is/was holding them back.

E85 & more boost, gogo

Note he was only running 18psi, I made 289rwkw@18psi on my hub dyno run, so quite similar. I believe Stao on his 320rwkw run was boosting to 23psi? In any case, I'd say you will need to run at least 20psi to crack the 300 mark on pump 98.

Nope, Stao made 305rwkw with the exact same turbo I had and was only running 18psi also.

E85 & more boost, gogo

See how my boost is dropping to 15.5psi. No matter what I did to raise the boost it would drop back to 15.5psi. So no point in increasing it for it then to drop off up top.

See how my boost is dropping to 15.5psi. No matter what I did to raise the boost it would drop back to 15.5psi. So no point in increasing it for it then to drop off up top.

More midrange punch

See how my boost is dropping to 15.5psi. No matter what I did to raise the boost it would drop back to 15.5psi. So no point in increasing it for it then to drop off up top.

There is an adjustment on the back of the turbo, you can adjust the creep amount with an allen key. Stao can give you advice to doing this.

I think the outcome is that you will boost higher up top than down low, but thats not really an issue if you just turn the boost down to suit

Nope, Stao made 305rwkw with the exact same turbo I had and was only running 18psi also.

Oh are you talking about the PU high flow? I was referring to the G3.

Got a graph of Stao's run? I can only find the one where he made 295@18psi with that turbo.

More midrange punch

Yeah true I just dont like the feeling of torque dropping off.

There is an adjustment on the back of the turbo, you can adjust the creep amount with an allen key. Stao can give you advice to doing this.

I think the outcome is that you will boost higher up top than down low, but thats not really an issue if you just turn the boost down to suit

Hmmm havent heard of that?? Any more details? We tried all the studs to reduce the size of the wastegate path to hopefully increase boost up top but couldnt do it. I think my intercooler could have been restrictive.

Oh are you talking about the PU high flow? I was referring to the G3.

Got a graph of Stao's run? I can only find the one where he made 295@18psi with that turbo.

Yeah talking about the PU high flow. Sorry your right Stao made 295rwkw on 18psi and 305rwkw on ~21psi.

there are two alen keys next to the flapper, did you try those?

it could be that you are getting so much volume through the mid range that you cap it out early and cant do anything about it.

either way your results are already good lol

Yeah true I just dont like the feeling of torque dropping off.

It wouldn't be dropping off any more than it is now, I guess the slope would be steeper, but you'd still have more power/torque under the curve.

The torque curve was pretty wide on mine and abes. It Might have some thing to do with his return flow cooler. Thats the one went burning hot after 1 run and took 3 mints to cool.

Is that correct? Hareys cooler got hot after just 1 run?

If so you should definitely change that mate, that would be holding you back a long way.

You talking about my old intercooler Stao? Didnt know it was that bad? Anyway I changed to an ARC return flow when I changed to the SS1 turbo. So unfortunately cant directly see the difference, except Trent said after 15+ dyno runs the temps were excellent.

Not Jeffs. The other car with the G3 has a made in china return flow that went burning hot after 1 run and took agers to cool. Buy the cross over ones like mine with a decent 600x300x75mm core. That gives the best performance.

Tao, I wanna come past tomorrow and talk to you about high flows / get you started on one for me, as I'm biting the bullet on getting one. When is a good time?

Tao, I wanna come past tomorrow and talk to you about high flows / get you started on one for me, as I'm biting the bullet on getting one. When is a good time?

Highflow? Get a SS1.5 PU. Be a man. Do da right fing.

After talking to Tao and testing his car, we've arrived at an SS1PU highflow as my choice. Stock looking compressor housing with modest power and hopefully only a little laggier than the standard turbo. Was very impressed with the Taomobile's power, the thing just wants to eat gutters above 4500rpm in any gear, but it's a bit laggy for my liking and daily driving. Can't remember what turbo he had fitted, but I'd rather more useful power and hopefully the SS1PU fits that bill. Will post results when I get installed and tuned :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...