Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

JET 31 - Why dont u want maximum torque? Thats the funnest part, yes its more det prone there but if the fuel is good enough then there is gains to be had, then let the boost build to redline and make crazy power figures.

If only...

I was just talking about using 98 octane, not unlimited octane, would be a nice old juggling act with timing on 98..lol, i have had freind long ago just do this with WI, standard T25G;s

on Sr20...25psi coming on and through midrange and 16- 17psi up top which is all it have it give, 111-113mph traps on a T25G in a silvia ..not bad..

cheers

darren

Hey guys

I'm working on a 250kw RB25 setup

Tossing up between the ss1pu or the ss1.5

It's going to be a street car and I want something that pushes you back in your seat and makes you hold on

Makes power early and can hold 250

Read the charts with the differences between the 2 and saw the 1.5 made better numbers on lower boost so I guess this would be the way to go?

What's the difference in the 2 other then the $250 price difference?

http://i.imgur.com/WxXlQ.jpg

definately gets the 'whoa!' feeling :)

Ur on ur own with that one. I see it as even if u have the power to break traction, with the correct throttle control u can be just as fast

Not with a Gt42 and 400+ wkw and 200rwkw of that over say 500rpm of the powerband coming on ..,lol its so toey it impossible to control and the faster you go, the worse it is, because you are applying more load and need far , far less throttle input, all you can do is setup sus and tyre selection

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Thought i would chime in with my findings so far on my ATR43G3.

Firstly, hats off to Stao and his mechanic that can get one of these suckers fitted in 4 hours!

Took it for a little drive around the block. Using 1/2 throttle, i got it to 4500rpm 1 or 2 times just to see whats up. A nice spooling sound and exhaust note is whats up! It seems to run/idle the same as before (tuned ECU), but i know not to give it the beans until its tuned properly.

Changing injectors tomorrow so if all goes well its getting tuned on monday.. Then drags on wednesday. :devil:

Thought i would chime in with my findings so far on my ATR43G3.

Firstly, hats off to Stao and his mechanic that can get one of these suckers fitted in 4 hours!

Took it for a little drive around the block. Using 1/2 throttle, i got it to 4500rpm 1 or 2 times just to see whats up. A nice spooling sound and exhaust note is whats up! It seems to run/idle the same as before (tuned ECU), but i know not to give it the beans until its tuned properly.

Changing injectors tomorrow so if all goes well its getting tuned on monday.. Then drags on wednesday. :devil:

Would be good to see some mph from these things!

cheers

darren

Thought i would chime in with my findings so far on my ATR43G3.

Firstly, hats off to Stao and his mechanic that can get one of these suckers fitted in 4 hours!

Took it for a little drive around the block. Using 1/2 throttle, i got it to 4500rpm 1 or 2 times just to see whats up. A nice spooling sound and exhaust note is whats up! It seems to run/idle the same as before (tuned ECU), but i know not to give it the beans until its tuned properly.

Changing injectors tomorrow so if all goes well its getting tuned on monday.. Then drags on wednesday. :devil:

You're not gonna try to drive it to Ovaboost after doing the injectors are you??? I'd bring a couple sets of replacement spark plugs if you are :P

Also keen for results from the tune/drags :D

You're not gonna try to drive it to Ovaboost after doing the injectors are you??? I'd bring a couple sets of replacement spark plugs if you are :P

Also keen for results from the tune/drags :D

Lol, i've since decided to change them in their car park. :thumbsup:

Edited by LANDSCRIBBLE

assume the wheels, shaft, bearings, and housings are re-useable. That will cost you $400. If every thing are gone and only housings are good then its not suitable for rebuilding. That will cost you $800 which is high flowing to 2860rs specifications. So the worst case scenario will cost $800.

Hey Stao,

What would be the highest figure you could expect from a SS1PU without putting to much stress on it?

I see its rated to 470HP which if I am correct is around 350kw

I am looking to purchase on this week.

Thanks

SS1PU makes around very responsive 260rwkw mark running 18~20psi. 22psi max it out at 280rwkws which is the most this turbo can do internally gated. This turbo has no issues handeling boost.

For the GTiR rebuild, $400 covers: 360 degrees thrust bearing, bush bearing, collars, seals, sand blasting, balancing and assembly.

Drop the turbo in when ready. I will need to pull it part to give you an accurate quote.

Some Modifications that I've done to a stockie R33 21U turbo:

2.jpg

Would be awsome if I can crack 300rwkws with it internally gated on pump 98. :D

Turbo's installed today:

IMAG0163.jpg

IMAG0164.jpg

IMAG0165.jpg

Looking pretty stock :D ?

Initial test drive, it builds up boost very quickly. Dyno tune due in soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...