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I could have sold PFC and bought something else before I tuned with it. It may be outdated in terms of functionality, but you can't beat the standard look of a PFC (with flipped covers), it counts for a lot down here in Victoria the defect state. I'd have to ditch my integrated boost controller too. It'd be nice to have something compatible with varying ethanol content, but none of the ECUs supporting this look standard enough for my liking.

*Throws frisbee at your hand* Piieww

Lol FC no compatibrrrrr with ethanol'oh contento sensor'oh >_<

impossibru.jpg

By ethanol content sensor, I meant purely for my viewing purposes. I plan on tuning for the lowest common denominator, which seems to be ~E70, and using the sensor to gauge the mix myself. Then it's just a case of adding unleaded to any ethanol percentage above that to achieve the perfect balance. That being said, lots of people have reported no issues running E70 when tuned on E85 and vice versa...as long as you're not tuning on a knife edge and you keep an eye on your wideband, you'll be right. But I don't want to get into an ethanol debate here...

I could have sold PFC and bought something else before I tuned with it. It may be outdated in terms of functionality, but you can't beat the standard look of a PFC (with flipped covers), it counts for a lot down here in Victoria the defect state. I'd have to ditch my integrated boost controller too. It'd be nice to have something compatible with varying ethanol content, but none of the ECUs supporting this look standard enough for my liking.

impossibru.jpg

By ethanol content sensor, I meant purely for my viewing purposes. I plan on tuning for the lowest common denominator, which seems to be ~E70, and using the sensor to gauge the mix myself. Then it's just a case of adding unleaded to any ethanol percentage above that to achieve the perfect balance. That being said, lots of people have reported no issues running E70 when tuned on E85 and vice versa...as long as you're not tuning on a knife edge and you keep an eye on your wideband, you'll be right. But I don't want to get into an ethanol debate here...

Teh Vipec plug in thingy uses the standed ECU case ;)

Hide an external map sensor and rig up a circuit so when the Standard MAF is unpluged it cuts power to either the fuel pump or ignitor

Adaptronic has integrated boost control so that's another thing you could of sold...

Also has built in map (4 bar) another thing I don't have to buy..

And I am pretty sure (not certain) it can be mounted in stock ecu case if u wish to do so.

HG has the bargain of the year here, I don't understand why people aren't all over it..

Is there something I don't know :unsure:

damn :(

oh well

If you sure that you are going to buy it then I can check for as as I bargined hard with Andy to get that Price on the Plugin ECU for the R33 buying 2 at once.

Couple of modifications on the SS1PU's exhaust side and wastegate setup:

The new housing is the adaption flange area further machined, now fitted with a massive 32mm internal gate.

thousing.jpg

I horned out the rear housing for better flow, how ever that resulted same effect as a bigger rear housing, both lag and power went a step up, which wasn't what I originally wanted. Still felt ok on road, but missing the zappiness from the original housing.

The final result. 286rwkws @ 20psi lol

power.jpg

The power isn't imported, how ever I think this simple waste gate mod have solved the boost drop issue with internal gate. Solid lines below was performed using a soft 14psi actuator and ebc, while the dotted lines were using original wastegate setup with 20psi actuator. :

boost2.jpg

Boost curve responded to the EBC perfectly, I can have 14psi as "lo setting" and 20psi as "high sitting".

Did more runs in comparison with wastegate mod removed using 20psi actuator. (Blue line with 2 dots was final run with 14psi actuator + gate mod.)

boost3.jpg

I have a spare addon mod for the ss1PU's internal gate, drop in a PM if interested to trail (6535.jpgBirds?).

Stao that housing look nice.

Physically, Is there much difference between this SS1PU adaption flange and my G3 flange? I like how the flap opens out fully to 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees, and also the flap is flipped (or hinged on the other side?) 180 degrees so it opens the other way. I'd certainly say this would help with boost control issues.

Edited by LANDSCRIBBLE

They are similar. The bigger the wastegate is, the cooler the egt, with this hug waste gate and possibly the porting I've done to the rear housing we were been able to run 3 degrees more timming up top. Big internal gate is also harder to boost controll as it generates lot more force acting against the actuator.

The theory is to extend the lever, same principle as loosing up a tight bolt with longer or shorter spanner

So, I decided to give ye olde drag strip trick a go and lower my rear tyre pressures, to see if that makes a difference to my traction issues. The logic was, if it did, then my tyres are crap because they can't grip up at their normal operating pressure.

They are 265/35/R18 and I normally run them at 40psi. So I thought to myself, "36psi should make a nice difference". Turns out they were already at 36psi! I didn't want to go any lower than that because they already looked a bit saggy for my liking, so instead I put them up to 38psi...if I wasn't going to get grip out of these tyres I might as well get better fuel economy until I change them.

I now have traction in 2nd all the way through? It makes sense, because 265 in a half decent brand (KU31) should be able to support 250-260rwkw without issue. What doesn't make sense to me, is the better traction through increasing tyre pressure.

With my limited understanding of tyres and traction, the only things I can put it down to are:

A. Pressure was way too low, causing the side walls to droop and the centre of the tread to float, a bit ike this _/--\_

B. Running them on a 9" wheel, they have a bit of bubble to the side walls (opposite of a stretched tyre)...at lower pressures potentially lifting the outer edges of the tread from the ground. The extra pressure straightened the bubble, pushing the sidewalls down to the ground?

P.S. she feels nice and fast now that I can enjoy full boost :)

Few more tests and I might be good to go for a drag with ARTZ :)

I found the same with my tires. I even tried dropping them to low 20's. I leave them around 35psi now.

Lowering the pressure might work a lot better with tyres with a taller sidewall that can flex a bit. I do understand that lowering pressures also gives a bigger print longways.

lol, yes that makes sense for the lengthways contact patch...which kind of goes against what I've done to get better traction, go figure. Regardless, I'm happy now because I don't have to fork out for new tyres until I switch to E-flex :D

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