Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a SS1 none PU version. It maxes around 250rwkws with same response as a factory turbo, it never worked on this stegea. So I'm happy to have it upgraded to other series at no additional cost.

This is a SS1 none PU version. It maxes around 250rwkws with same response as a factory turbo, it never worked on this stegea. So I'm happy to have it upgraded to other series at no additional cost.

30rwkw isn't far short, especially considering not many of your customers turbos equal what your test car makes. If you could figure out why it isn't holding boost then I think it would come a lot closer.

30rwkw isn't far short, especially considering not many of your customers turbos equal what your test car makes. If you could figure out why it isn't holding boost then I think it would come a lot closer.

No the average of 250rwkws was taken from 3x different cars. they all run up to about 17.5PSI top end, they were 253, 247 and 245. The final afr is all about 12. The best run of 260rwkws was on 23psi.

I couldn't figure out why its not holding boost on his car. I guess its better to exchange for a SS1PU or G2 a G3 which results are well proven by many people.

Or I can exchange with some thing that comes straight out of my car like the G2 I've done for your self and we ended up with same power.

No the average of 250rwkws was taken from 3x different cars. they all run up to about 17.5PSI top end, they were 253, 247 and 245. But the afr is all about 12. The best run of 260rwkws was on 23psi.

I couldn't figure out why its not holding boost on his car. I guess its better to exchange for a SS1PU or G2 a G3 which results are well proven by many people.

I see, but still not far off.

Thing is, what if the turbo isn't the issue? What happens if whatever replacement turbo you send him then doesn't make power? Doesn't look good.

The turbo it self is bit on the small side as it was only made to do a maximum of 250rwkws with factory response, and it was more responsive then a stock turbo. During that time the FNT housings and billet wheels wasn't developed.

Since he's got forged engine, so its no differ to mine, it doesn't hurt to go bigger and bigger is more consistent with power and boost control.

The strangest thing I noticed is we couldn't get it up to 20psi, the higher reading was at 16psi down to 14psi, he said there was a massive heat soak and the timing was just going ridiculous. On e85 he thinks it could make 250.

For the time being I can't afford another tune, my rego is due, so I can't really change the turbo right now. As much as I would love to.

here is my dyno graph from yesterday. The car is a 96 r33 gtst and has the op6 standard hi flow, nismo 555cc injectors, nismo fuel pump, blitz turnflow cooler (heat wrapped pipes), full 3" exhaust and a metal intake. Real happy with the result, thanks Jez!

dynograph.jpg

Edited by Mitcho_7

Looks like a good clean tune, should run really smooth. Can definitely see the difference between the standard highflow and the SS1PU.

Yeh the ss turbo's build boost faster but can't seem to hold it as well uptop. I had one of staos wastegate mods on initially but the boost wouldn't go below 20+ psi...

Edited by Mitcho_7

Glad ur happy Mitch. If i go to shop later i will overlay ur graph with Kasko's and post it up.

Would love to see this as the ss is $700 more expensive.

Question Jez even if mine could hold the 20 psi through the whole rev range it would still be limited by the detonation above 250kw?

Yes it should make more power. Fuel octane is always an issue when trying to push bigger numbers from a smallish turbo, Say if u had a G3 u can run more power with more boost before u hit the knock limit.

I think due to the turbo design being for as best response as possible the top end has to suffer as it chokes up in the rear housing.

That's cool I'm really happy with the response so I don't want to lower that just for a gain in power.

Maybe once I get bored of the power bit I doubt that would happen any time soon.

Even with the clutch still not replaced I managed to break traction all the way to 3rd gear last night.

Let's just say I won

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...