Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha Yeh well that's what I was doing for the last two days, moving the gear backwards and forwards and not getting anywhere :/ all sorted now, time to out it all back together. I somehow don't think my car will be very driveable until I get a tune now though :(

Dont know if I missed something but why are your poncams needing to be dialled in? There drop in.

Dont know if I missed something but why are your poncams needing to be dialled in? There drop in.

Yeh. Turns out they're not as accurate as Tomei say they are.

Keen on results for the SLSS2 results stao, if it does what I hope it will probably end up on my SR.

Martin you have me worried about my own poncams.. while I am 100% certain the cams are at least dialed where they are meant to be, it doesnt mean the lobe centre isnt whack like yours.

Le sigh, more work.

 

Yeh. Turns out they're not as accurate as Tomei say they are.

 

I Checked mine the other day (just lined up with timing marks and marks on gates belts) and its pretty much perfect. The minor amount it is out is probably due to the block looking like it has had a bit taken off it in the past, not enough worth worrying about anyway

Dont know if I missed something but why are your poncams needing to be dialled in? There drop in.

Skimming the head or block or different thickness head gasket also throws it off.

Dont you just set the cams to the stock mark, or are we saying the stock marks aren't accurate?

Its not the stock marks that are the issue, it's that Tomei didn't get the cams quite perfect.

 

 

I Checked mine the other day (just lined up with timing marks and marks on gates belts) and its pretty much perfect. The minor amount it is out is probably due to the block looking like it has had a bit taken off it in the past, not enough worth worrying about anyway

You're not gonna see anything by lining up the stock marks, my timing marks were in the right place too. You need to actually check with a dial indicator that the lobe centreline is in the right spot according to the cam specs that Tomei supply with the cams. The stock timing marks just mean the gear is in the right place, it doesn't mean that Tomei got the cam in the right place.

Yuh, new/reground cams are not often 100% correct. It isn't a problem for most people fitting these drop ins, because they usually end up getting fiddled by the tuner looking for whatever power characteristic is desired (ie max power outright, or earlier spool, whatever), and so they get adjusted to be "right" for that job regardless of how well they align with the stock gears.

Keen on results for the SLSS2 results stao, if it does what I hope it will probably end up on my SR. Martin you have me worried about my own poncams.. while I am 100% certain the cams are at least dialed where they are meant to be, it doesnt mean the lobe centre isnt whack like yours. Le sigh, more work.

Well if you fit the cams and you get the expected gains from it then there probably fine.

 

Its not the stock marks that are the issue, it's that Tomei didn't get the cams quite perfect.

You're not gonna see anything by lining up the stock marks, my timing marks were in the right place too. You need to actually check with a dial indicator that the lobe centreline is in the right spot according to the cam specs that Tomei supply with the cams. The stock timing marks just mean the gear is in the right place, it doesn't mean that Tomei got the cam in the right place.

 

Yeah I meant I lined it all up to the timing marks and then checked and everything was pretty spot on

 

Well if you fit the cams and you get the expected gains from it then there probably fine.

 

In my case it was a fresh motor and I had nothing to compare it to. The tuner reckons its doing what it should but you never know, its possible there is more to be had. Despite the fact they are zerod to factory spec off the gears/chain and there is ZERO vacuum leaks in my setup I still lost a fair bit of idle vacuum going to these cams, and they are only 256s.

Your motor is completely stock right? Never had the head off? If so they might be ok.

They are meant to be a full drop in... I think Trev and Martin have suffered because their motors have been apart in the past, with surfaces skimmed. Like mine also. It doesnt mean Tomei get the lobe centre spot on though... It might still be off, which is why they advertise specs so we can work it out.

Your motor is completely stock right? Never had the head off? If so they might be ok. They are meant to be a full drop in... I think Trev and Martin have suffered because their motors have been apart in the past, with surfaces skimmed. Like mine also. It doesnt mean Tomei get the lobe centre spot on though... It might still be off, which is why they advertise specs so we can work it out.

Yep never been apart! So i can see what you are saying :) carry on.....................

The idea is that because your motor has never been apart the decks are at factory height. Being factory height means that when the belt is installed properly (all markings used, correct position etc) the cams will sit exactly where Nissan intended them to (assuming they are stock).

Once you dismantle the motor things start to change. For myself both the head and block were warped, and I had to have both decked flat. This meant that the cams ended up being closer to the crank, so the non tensioned side of the motor had extra slack which pulled the cams back. Combine the new shorter distance between cams and crank with the new MLS headgasket and the distance was way off what it normally would be.

So my thinking for yourself is that the motor is still within factory parameters and wont experience these problems. HOWEVER, this is only assuming that the cams are spot on. The cam supplier normally advertises the specs so the end user can check and confirm that the cams are at true centre (where the manufacturer intended them to be).

The poncams are intended to be a complete drop in, and according to unigroup they did exactly that in my car... Yet I am still curious as to HOW spot on the grind is compared to what the specs say. I know the front of my cams meet the correct position/markers when the motor is at TDC, so I am just trusting Tomei from there. Which is pretty much the same position you are in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...