Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Result sent in by one of our high flowed 21U R33 turbocharger's customer. Car made 271rwkws @ 19psi P98 fuel, Vs an Ebay purchased high flow replacement.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

  • Like 1

Result sent in by one of our high flowed 21U R33 turbocharger's customer. Car made 271rwkws @ 19psi P98 fuel, Vs an Ebay purchased high flow replacement.

power.jpg

boost.jpg

Is this on an r33 or r34?

For the same given setup, will the neo make more power or are they same same?

R33 GTST. The ebay high flow failed and it was brought high flowed for the 2nd time. No hardware apart from the turbo has been changed.

  • 2 weeks later...

^That's my car. Basic setup. R33GTST, Unopened RB25

 Hypergear 21U Highflow @ 19psi (2015 spec)

80mm stainless intake pipe

blitz return flow cooler

JJR dump/front pipe

nismo exhaust

nismo 740cc injectors

dw340lph fuel pump

adaptronic ecu

flexfuel

NPC HD organic clutch

Made 312rwkw and 474nm. The video above isn't working properly when I tried watching, here it is again. Thanks for the turbo Tao. Im extremely happy with the result.

 

Tuned at VIC DYNO HIRE.

 

  • Like 2
That's mental.  Got a pic of the graph?

I do but on that run, unfortunately the tune did not have additional timing before 5000rpm. We did the power runs first as we where running out of e85 in the tank and then added the low end timing afterwards. Tuner wanted to do a final power run but I didn't want to risk it sucking some air. I also had a boost control issue, full boost should be at 3.4k but isn't arriving till 3.7k. Still trying to work out the issue there, lack of time to troubleshoot. It didn't effect top end but mid range is below what it should be. The graph shows 150rwkw at 4k, i estimate it would be around 170-180 with the extra timing but should really be closer to 190-200rwkw if the boost issue is sorted. Anyway here's the graph and yeah the car feels pretty mental with this sort of power and I'm very impressed and happy with the hypergear 21u high flow.5bda621456e5b68bb122b560776d1234.jpg

Tuner emailed me some better images of dyno graph today. The second graph is a comparison of a run with no additional timing and boost controller off. I think a proper intercooler and exhaust would definitely improve the midrange and overall torque output. These images are much clearer at least.

0dbbf6d72ca7c978281cb3b42b3cd7db.jpg836319319d949c639effa0023848224e.jpg

Updating with two more results: 

 ATR43G3SAT externally gated on E85 fuel, stock engine with supporting mods

power.jpg

Awesome drifting video from this car. Can anyone please advise of how to insert Youtube media into post please (like dyno run video above).

R33 GTST 312rwkw E85 Flexfuel.mp4

 

Also pretty decent power on P98 fuel. Running off an Rb30det with 264 / 272 cams using one of our custom made ATR45 turbochargers.

418rwkws @ 18psi

power.jpg

 

 

 

 

drift.mp4

  • Like 1

This is quite interesting of a job so I post. It is high flowing and converting a bush bearing BorgWarner S300 series Turbochargers to ceramic ball bearings. ATR45SS compressor is used with a matching .70 compressor housing along with original S300 turbine wheel and housing. 

chra2.jpg

 

chra.jpg

 

side.jpg

 

comp.jpg

  • Like 1

BB improves throttle response and maximises boost response, so the turbo makes more boost with lower rpm. Yes can use different housings depending on size of wheel used.

There is about 6 hours of engineering work required making up all the little collars, spacers, as well as modifying the bearing housing and re-grind the shaft, everything needs to be done perfect for this to work, its not a quick easy job.

This particular one cost $1400 to do thats including the BB upgrade as well the supplying the comp wheel and comp housing.

For a Normal Garrett T3x and T4x  based turbocharger in working condition with housings supplied, it will cost $650 to carry out. 

Holset or BW medium / large frame like the one above again in working condition with housings supplied will cost $1000 to carry out.

  • 2 weeks later...

Some more data to update with. This is an result of an compressor wheel upgraded of a TD06L2 12cm based 20G P98 fuel to our ATR43SAT compressor wheel. 

 

power.jpg

 

http://www.hypergearturbos.com/images/dynosheets/hiflows/td0676mmupgrade/boost.jpg

  • Like 1

I will keep this thread synchronized with our FB updates.

This is based on an prototype SS2 running ceramic ball bearing core. The new housing has been shorted so the dump pipe is no longer been pushed back against the A/C drain. Turbocharger made 302rwkws @ 21psi P98 fuel internally gated as a bolton turbo. Currently 18kws short of the target goal. Project is still under development.

 compwheels.jpg.761858a0ed4abf7c4b804e467

chra.jpg.a94f648067eedec658883b72a9561dd

ss2comp.jpg.2492bee9c28b075e182ad35cf73c

ss2side.jpg.63f712e8dc7c4d54955bd2b734fd

 

 

power.jpg.2e59c7c1e6c09482b9c326c6548860

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Hey Hypergear 

Wondering what you think one of your 21U high flows would work like on an FJ20 4 Cylinder 

I'm looking to keep the stock T3 manifold as it's an engineered car, hoping to make a responsive 220ish kws on 98

Any help would be great thanks 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...