Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

@V28VX37 There are no oil galleries inside comp cover. if engine rocket cover breathers are plumbed into the induction pipe. remove them and that bit of residue should clear.

For the  1hz cruiser we can high flow your stock turbocharger using G1 profile, its quite response with plenty of torque. It does need water and oil lines, everything else bolt back on with no fabrications.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, hypergear said:

@V28VX37 There are no oil galleries inside comp cover. if engine rocket cover breathers are plumbed into the induction pipe. remove them and that bit of residue should clear.

Thanks Tao, I was wondering about that, makes sense. Yes it's got the standard breather setup plumbed into (Scotty's) induction pipe.
Looks like the engine might be breathing a bit more oil then after the recent head gasket change. Should I be looking at a catch can?

Also if the turbo oil seal was damaged, I'm guessing it would be leaking at the core right (not at the comp cover)? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The seals are SS C clips, they don't wear unless of a thrust play, means turbo would've failed. The front collars are engineered to throw oil away from the centre shaft and the rear don't, so in case of turbo failures, the rear seal is likely to leak first.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 16/01/2017 at 9:27 PM, hypergear said:

@V28VX37 There are no oil galleries inside comp cover. if engine rocket cover breathers are plumbed into the induction pipe. remove them and that bit of residue should clear.

...

On 17/01/2017 at 0:34 AM, hypergear said:

The seals are SS C clips, they don't wear unless of a thrust play, means turbo would've failed. The front collars are engineered to throw oil away from the centre shaft and the rear don't, so in case of turbo failures, the rear seal is likely to leak first.

 

I've just installed a simple catch can setup and I'm still getting a drop of oil collecting at the bottom rear edge of the comp cover, it's really strange. 
I've previously tightened all oil and coolant lines and the turbo core section seems dry as far as I can tell from above and below. I'm still getting good boost, so the turbo is definitely working.

Any other suggestions on what else could be causing a minor leak at the comp cover?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

Keen to share my results, hopefully they might help others in choosing their setup.

S1 RB25det, 2013 ATR43SS1PU turbo, stock manifolds, 3" exhaust 100cell cat, megasquirt ECU, splitfires, sard 850cc injectors, DW300 pump, undersized intercooler (high intake temps and around 4psi drop).

Graph shows 98 on gate pressure vs ethanol with a little more boost.

 

Lucas S13 2.jpg

Edited by IT15ON
fixed attachment
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking for some feedback on my dyno graph. Is this normal because power and full boost seems to come on really late. Car is r33 gtst s2 manual

Mods:
-Hypergear op6 highflow ball bearing G3 profile.
-power fc
-xspurt 1000cc top feed injectors
-walbro 255lph fuel pump
-blitz return flow intercooler
-full 3 inch exhaust
- apexi pod and solid intake pipe mod
-splitfire coilpacks
- NGK sparkplugs 0.8mm

5886ddcc1f170_2017-01-2404_18_36.jpg.9c4

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ take it to a different tuner, also are you running a cat - if so which cat? plus need more boost

Cant really afford to get another tune. I had a chat to the tuner and he said theres nothing that can be really done and its just a laggy turbo. Im happy with 250rwkw i would just have liked full boost to come on earlier. Im pretty sure its a highflow cat not sure what brand though.

Also the wastegate actuator was set at 18psi. But it was opening up at around 13psi and they had to use a bleed valve to bring the boost up.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWIW I've been happy with Chasers and Paul's always done a good job with my tune.

Check that cat, my car picked up about 25 rwkw going from X force 'high flow' to a proper Venom 100cell.

Edit: Mine's a 34 with Nistune not PowerFC

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, vxsr33 said:

Looking for some feedback on my dyno graph. Is this normal because power and full boost seems to come on really late. Car is r33 gtst s2 manual

Mods:
-Hypergear op6 highflow ball bearing G3 profile.
-power fc
-xspurt 1000cc top feed injectors
-walbro 255lph fuel pump
-blitz return flow intercooler
-full 3 inch exhaust
- apexi pod and solid intake pipe mod
-splitfire coilpacks
- NGK sparkplugs 0.8mm

5886ddcc1f170_2017-01-2404_18_36.jpg.9c4

What boost controller are you running?

Something is not right, I'm hitting 20psi with the OP6 highflow at 4900, and thats on my RB20 which is 500cc smaller and has no VCT.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the OP6 High flow, Just check to make sure the actuator is preloaded and shut, leaks and active VCT. Alternatively you can send it back and swap the turbine housing to smaller 21U. The op6 should be making 20psi at 4100RPM on a R33 Rb25det engine and maxing towards 290rwkws. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

FWIW I've been happy with Chasers and Paul's always done a good job with my tune.

Check that cat, my car picked up about 25 rwkw going from X force 'high flow' to a proper Venom 100cell.

Edit: Mine's a 34 with Nistune not PowerFC

A decent CAT really make that much difference :O??????? How would that compare to decat?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWIW I've been happy with Chasers and Paul's always done a good job with my tune.
Check that cat, my car picked up about 25 rwkw going from X force 'high flow' to a proper Venom 100cell.
Edit: Mine's a 34 with Nistune not PowerFC

Where's the best place to pick up one of these venom 100cell cats?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...