Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Just now, vxsr33 said:


Where's the best place to pick up one of these venom 100cell cats?

I've been looking into it also - Their website says it's under construction and you can purchase from their eBay if you want to order something. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A decent CAT really make that much difference :O??????? How would that compare to decat?


Yes I was very surprised too, turns out it can be a significant restriction. Don't know about decat it's a street car :)


Where's the best place to pick up one of these venom 100cell cats?


Ebay mate
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the OP6 High flow, Just check to make sure the actuator is preloaded and shut, leaks and active VCT. Alternatively you can send it back and swap the turbine housing to smaller 21U. The op6 should be making 20psi at 4100RPM on a R33 Rb25det engine and maxing towards 290rwkws. 

The 18psi actuator was opening at 13psi instead. Why would this happen? Had to use a bleed valve to bring the boost up. Also had my car checked for boost leaks recently and it didnt have any (ill do another boost leak test though).
Dont want to go to the 21u, i feel like that would be masking the problem.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, vxsr33 said:


The 18psi actuator was opening at 13psi instead. Why would this happen? Had to use a bleed valve to bring the boost up. Also had my car checked for boost leaks recently and it didnt have any (ill do another boost leak test though).
Dont want to go to the 21u, i feel like that would be masking the problem.

Tension up the actuator further, also is your flange fully seated with the turbo? I had a S15 come to me before for a tune and the turbo was held on by 2x nuts and the owner said it was laggy... well, when there's no exhaust going into the turbo then yes...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tension up the actuator further, also is your flange fully seated with the turbo? I had a S15 come to me before for a tune and the turbo was held on by 2x nuts and the owner said it was laggy... well, when there's no exhaust going into the turbo then yes...


Will tensioning the actuator further mess up the tune at all?

And yeah the flange is is held on with all 4 nuts and they are tight
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, vxsr33 said:

 


Will tensioning the actuator further mess up the tune at all?

And yeah the flange is is held on with all 4 nuts and they are tight

Well if the tuner/shop has considered the surrounding cells then it will be fine, however if it's like the tune I saw from the said workshop then no..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, vxsr33 said:


The 18psi actuator was opening at 13psi instead. Why would this happen?

When car's running and there are pressure variances it will be different, you need use a boost controller regardless. Turbo run 18psi with no EBC using this actuator on test car which has a very free flow setup. You can also preload actuator to increase minimum boost level, but it will not do much working with that Return flow intercooler.  

Blue is Blitz return flow pressure checked before and after cooler kit.

atr45sat311rwkwnewcoolerboost.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When car's running and there are pressure variances it will be different, you need use a boost controller regardless. Turbo run 18psi with no EBC using this actuator on test car which has a very free flow setup. You can also preload actuator to increase minimum boost level, but it will not do much working with that Return flow intercooler.  
Blue is Blitz return flow pressure checked before and after cooler kit.
atr45sat311rwkwnewcoolerboost.jpg&key=dedbbe8f1a374a921c5a15417ca6728345145d2fd23f1ad059f864bf949b6c12

Ah ok.
I was thinking of getting the suggested 100cell cat, getting an EBC and getting the car retuned by chequered instead (this will be a while away). Do you think this will solve the issue? As i said im happy with the power just want it to come on full boost earlier.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When comes to problem solving its hard to pin point. Like my self is in the middle of figuring out and fixing what looks like endless problems with a newly purchased R32 GTS4. Well, you can start with checking boost leaks, actuator preloading and VCT activation. for a 100 cell cat, if its not collapsed its not too bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got mine back from DVS this weekend.
R34 GTT 2000 Model.

E85 - 287rwkw
Pump 98 - 256rwkw 

-ATR45SAT
-Adaptronic ECU
-Bosch 1000cc Injectors
-Bosch E85 Fuel Pump
-3" Exhaust
-Highflow Cat
-Stock Intake with highflow filter (This is a problem)
-Blitz Return Flow (This is a problem)
-Stock coils (Potential problem)

The actuator was only holding 10psi before opening, had to use the boost controller to keep it shut to 20psi
We tested the pressure before the intercooler and it was hitting 20psi and dropping to around 19psi.
So looks like as always, the return flow is a problem as after cooler it was dropping to 16psi 
I'm also guessing the stock intake isn't helping with the flow either.

Plan down the track is to swap out the intercooler with something better flowing and able to hold pressure.
The stock intake will be replaced with a nice big intake and a pod, all enclosed and bracketed to make it legal.
 

16357527_1718550951808168_171071331_o (1).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Manuel Kasko said:

Got mine back from DVS this weekend.
R34 GTT 2000 Model.

E85 - 287rwkw
Pump 98 - 256rwkw 

-ATR45SAT
-Adaptronic ECU
-Bosch 1000cc Injectors
-Bosch E85 Fuel Pump
-3" Exhaust
-Highflow Cat
-Stock Intake with highflow filter (This is a problem)
-Blitz Return Flow (This is a problem)
-Stock coils (Potential problem)

The actuator was only holding 10psi before opening, had to use the boost controller to keep it shut to 20psi
We tested the pressure before the intercooler and it was hitting 20psi and dropping to around 19psi.
So looks like as always, the return flow is a problem as after cooler it was dropping to 16psi 
I'm also guessing the stock intake isn't helping with the flow either.

Plan down the track is to swap out the intercooler with something better flowing and able to hold pressure.
The stock intake will be replaced with a nice big intake and a pod, all enclosed and bracketed to make it legal.
 

16357527_1718550951808168_171071331_o (1).jpg

Interesting

I got the 1st Gen ATR45's

And i got all 3 of your "issues"

-Stock Intake with highflow filter (This is a problem)
-Blitz Return Flow (This is a problem)
-Stock coils (Potential problem)
 

Difference is my cooler is a normal FMIC but with return flow piping.

Made 380rwkw on Trent's dyno and ~355 rwkw on racepace dyno. From memory mine was about 23psi bleeding down to 18~19 or something

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, blah_blah said:

Interesting

I got the 1st Gen ATR45's

And i got all 3 of your "issues"

-Stock Intake with highflow filter (This is a problem)
-Blitz Return Flow (This is a problem)
-Stock coils (Potential problem)
 

Difference is my cooler is a normal FMIC but with return flow piping.

Made 380rwkw on Trent's dyno and ~355 rwkw on racepace dyno. From memory mine was about 23psi bleeding down to 18~19 or something

 

Yeah that is interesting, you wouldn't think changing the cooler from blitz to a normal cooler would make it jump up an extra 60-70kw. 
What exhaust are you running?

Mine is 3inch all the way through with only cat, resonator and the cannon at the end.
I'm thinking of swapping the cannon out for a good muffler to help with drone and noise, not sure if that's a step back or not though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, Manuel Kasko said:

Yeah that is interesting, you wouldn't think changing the cooler from blitz to a normal cooler would make it jump up an extra 60-70kw. 
What exhaust are you running?

Mine is 3inch all the way through with only cat, resonator and the cannon at the end.
I'm thinking of swapping the cannon out for a good muffler to help with drone and noise, not sure if that's a step back or not though.

No idea sorry, some people have massive restrictions but then there is also Greg who runs one with 400rwkw

My exhaust is a 3inch just jump dump, decat and some jap brand 3 to 3.5 inch cat back

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, blah_blah said:

No idea sorry, some people have massive restrictions but then there is also Greg who runs one with 400rwkw

My exhaust is a 3inch just jump dump, decat and some jap brand 3 to 3.5 inch cat back

 

Seems like your setup is pretty much exact same as me, only difference is the intercooler.
I purchased some splitfire coils today because I'm having misfire issues from what I can tell. 

Will look into a cooler in a few months once I save the coin up. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

50 minutes ago, Manuel Kasko said:

Seems like your setup is pretty much exact same as me, only difference is the intercooler.
I purchased some splitfire coils today because I'm having misfire issues from what I can tell. 

Will look into a cooler in a few months once I save the coin up. 

If you're using the Adaptronic ECU.. make sure you set up the variable dwell table... by default it runs fixed dwell

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, blah_blah said:

No idea sorry, some people have massive restrictions but then there is also Greg who runs one with 400rwkw

My exhaust is a 3inch just jump dump, decat and some jap brand 3 to 3.5 inch cat back

 

Greg also has a built 2.9L engine. GTX3582 .82 externally gated on E85. Tuned at Trents. I'm pretty sure he will pickup more HP going to a big PWR with normal cooler piping kit. 

Also any one know how to bring back that HTML coding button in the reply box as we used to have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah that is interesting, you wouldn't think changing the cooler from blitz to a normal cooler would make it jump up an extra 60-70kw. 
What exhaust are you running?

Mine is 3inch all the way through with only cat, resonator and the cannon at the end.
I'm thinking of swapping the cannon out for a good muffler to help with drone and noise, not sure if that's a step back or not though.

I remember at least two cars reporting just a smidge under 300rwkw on pulp with a Blitz so doubt that it's the sole restriction. Maybe search the 'all dyno results' thread for the full supporting mods?

Also like I think I mentioned the other day, my car went from 257 to 275 rwkw by swapping from an Xforce to a Venom cat, decent difference. Which cat are you running?
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Manuel Kasko said:

Got mine back from DVS this weekend.
R34 GTT 2000 Model.

E85 - 287rwkw
Pump 98 - 256rwkw 

-ATR45SAT
-Adaptronic ECU
-Bosch 1000cc Injectors
-Bosch E85 Fuel Pump
-3" Exhaust
-Highflow Cat
-Stock Intake with highflow filter (This is a problem)
-Blitz Return Flow (This is a problem)
-Stock coils (Potential problem)

The actuator was only holding 10psi before opening, had to use the boost controller to keep it shut to 20psi
We tested the pressure before the intercooler and it was hitting 20psi and dropping to around 19psi.
So looks like as always, the return flow is a problem as after cooler it was dropping to 16psi 
I'm also guessing the stock intake isn't helping with the flow either.

Plan down the track is to swap out the intercooler with something better flowing and able to hold pressure.
The stock intake will be replaced with a nice big intake and a pod, all enclosed and bracketed to make it legal.
 

16357527_1718550951808168_171071331_o (1).jpg

 

Mine was tuned at about 289KW on BP 98 by JEM - Same turbo, Same cooler, 3" JJR exhaust with an unknown dump and unknown highflow cat, Splitfires with the stock airbox and snorkel. Interesting to see the differences between them. 

I'll also be changing my cooler in the near future and going to a venom cat as recommended by V28VX37. 

Similar to you my IWG actuator was opening at 10PSI which I changed after getting it tuned. The tuner mentioned that he had to have my AVCR settings cranked right up to get it to hold boost, since changing it to a Turbosmart variant I have the settings at 1/3 what it used to be. 

Inbox me if you want more details 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have your numbers back to front. 350mm from wheel centre to guard lip would be scrapinly low and the suspension arms would be at spastic angles and it would have the road manners of a meth affected giraffe. You can down to ~450mm (from larger stock starting values about 50ish mm higher than that) before you start to create to many problems.
    • I think last I checked it was 35cm from fender to wheel center. I heard u can go up to 45-48cm before handling his impacted. But I need to check again. I know I was about 1.2 cm off being close to max recommended. 
    • You'd need to weld on an external gate to achieve that number though. I can't remember seeing anyone make 500hp at the wheels with the stock manifold / internally gated turbo.
    • Suspension Component Question Looking for some feedback based on people's experiences! I know this has been loosely covered in other threads but I can't find any direct answers/experience. I'm up for some bush/rod replacements and was interested in a hybrid approach between hardened rubber and pillowball kit. Why not choose one or the other? Well, this is for my daily driver, which I track once or twice a year. I like a stiff car and a sporty feel but I don't want to compromise the chassis too much with 100% pillowball gadgetry.  I know from experience and a tonne of reading that not all components affect ride quality in the same way - eg. in my case, coilover top mounts should be hardened rubber as pillowball transfers way too many undesirable qualities and doesn't have much more upside than a good hardened rubber. But, pillowball tension rods translate to much better turn-in/steering response and make the car significantly sharper, without negatively impacting ride quality in a significant way.  I'm not TOO bothered by NVH (to a degree). So, with context out of the way, does anyone have any experience with a hybrid approach as mentioned above? I'm going to replace all components over time so am seeking guidance on: - front tension rods - upper camber arms - rear lower control arm - rear traction rod - rear upper camber arm - rear toe adjuster rod  Secondly, is there any reason why this is a bad idea? Or any other info/wisdom that I might not be considering. Cheers 🫶
    • That's good to hear I'll stick with the stock I hear they are good for 500hp and I'm only shooting for 350-400 once I can get this thing sorted and get to actually building it. 
×
×
  • Create New...