Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Naa the G3SAT killed it in both power and response. I'm not been able to make anything thats more responsive at its HP.

 

And some video footages from this week:

HyperGears ATR45SAT Ceramic ball bearing turbocharger powered Team Lori Blue Bird. Sandown race track 1.24 run before WTAC. Car is a 4WD, has SR20VET engine, Built gear box, Fuel and injector mores, manifold and external gate. Tuned at Springymotors made 340awkws E85 fuel. Car driven by John Reco  

front.JPG

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The latest Upgrade in Rb25det Bolton turbo upgrade. 

fronts.JPG

 

 

Had my R34 on dyno today testing the latest ATR45SAT ceramic ball bearing turbo. Amazingly it made the same power with 250RPM better in response. Plus most importantly, this turbocharger is happy to run a minimum boost level of 20psi, which the older model can run no less then 22psi. P98 fuel

Now hitting 20psi @ 3650RPM vs Older version of 14psi @ 3650RPM. Car made a peek of 331rwkws and average of 325rwkws @ 22psi with 3 inches turbo back exhaust + Tee connected, It is a blast to drive.

Recap, Car has:

R34 GTT RB25DET NEO unopened engine.
- Adaptronic� ECU
- 1000CC ID injectors
- Factory cams, cams gears, and all manifolds.
- HyperGear ATR45SAT (Pro-B 150816) Ceramic Ball bearing Internal gated RB25 bolton Turbocharger
- JJR 3 inches turbo back exhaust, 2 inches Tee from front pipe.
- Walbro 470L/H Fuel pump
- 4 inches induction pipe
- Split fire coil packs
- PWR 600x300x81mm intercooler
-Tuned by Chequered Tuning Melbourne (Highly recommended)\

 

Dyno reading shown:
Red - ATR45SAT (Rv-2 150816) Current
Grey - ATR45SAT (Rv-1 180316)

powervsA.jpg

 

boostvsA.jpg

 

Video shown the highest powered dyno run

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is one more result that are worth posting.

This is from one of my troubled customers whom like many others using stealth setups including a return flow cooler and a silent exhaust. Obviously it made a petty 260rwkws P98 using our ATR43SS2 turbocharger with a massive boost drop. The SS2 however have held a dead flat 20psi on my R33 peeking 302rwkws. Fixing that boost drop problem, he went all the troubles fitting up an External gate that made only a 5kws gain. His disappointment anger and frustration has been directed to the turbo and my self.   

During that time, initial ATR45SAT was first made and tested by Havoc Fabrications at 420rwkws. An upgrade request was made by the customer so the same turbo was built and sent for the exchange of the ATR43SS2 which I'm yet to receive. With nothing else apart from the turbo change and E85, the car made an disappointing 354rwkws, that have sparked more heated conversations, to prove my product I have later managed to use the same turbo beating his E85 result running internal gate on less boost.

Red- My internally gated result vs Blue - under performing externally gated result

vsfarzampower.JPG

vsfarzamboost.JPG

 

Finding out reasons and answers in solving those issues, I have bought my 2nd and 3rd R34, picked the exact same mods used, guess what I ended up with same crappy result. Investigation pointed to the Blitz return flow cooler, the 2.5 inches resonator inside Jap exhausts as well as the EPA approved compliance cat, test results of those are documented in my earlier updates of this thread.

 

A proper front mount cooler is finally fitted, with a good cold air induction system and a free flow exhaust installed. using the same turbocharger the car has now hit 400rwkws on E85 fuel:

power.jpg

Vs controlled result:

atr45sat.jpg

 

enginebay.jpg

 

This is an perfect example of how important it is picking the right supporting and differences it makes to overall performance.

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

What is that airbox for the 34?

Setup always matters for results. I actually just found myself how much restriction the airbox can be at 400+. Though, my blitz fmic is still going strong.

What was the difference Greg?
At my peasant power level the car only picked up another 10rwkw with the airbox lid and filter removed, same as a fluffy dice or a JDM sticker basically.

One of the bigger differences in my setup was going from an X-Force cat to Venom 100cpi, that was significant.

Also Tao in the photo above is that a boxed pod setup under that stealth lid?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For me it was 45kw lol. But my lid had no modifications and the difference was lid off/on back to back.

My VCT was also not working, so fixing that got power on 800rpm earlier.

So it pays to test all setups!

I have made a solution to get mine going that looks stocker than that box, but still curious to know what it was.

I was lucky that the seat of the pants feel was massively different (and so was boost) so it was very obvious for me to test my 'fix'

Also worth noting I am auto. So if you make about 400 on a manual the lid will work. I was making about 365kw with the lid on and 410 with it off and the car decided to just run 28psi instead of 21. The restriction was real.

That said it's still fine in my experience for any turbo on a 25 that wouldn't be too laggy to actually want.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This morning I carefully reinstalled the manifold and started looking at a couple of things I need to do.  Heat wrap arrived sometime today so I popped into the shed with the missus dishwashing gloves and started wrapping the first half of the dump and the screamer/plumb back.  Once I do the second half I'll be able to final fit the turbo and exhaust up.  Also pulled the harness out today and started terminating it at the ECU end. A connector is done, just need to run the remaining wires that arent in the harness - 12v, gnd and couple I/O
    • A31 is pretty much the same thing without HiAIDS I mean CAS, no improvement lol. Not to late to send it.
    • Thanks for all the replies! I also wanted to ask if wheels that were fitted on Ford Falcons would fit the 350GTs as well? In the area I'm at there aren't that many options for secondhand wheels and new ones here are way out of my budget. From what I've seen, most of the wheels that are available that were fitted on Ford Falcons have an offset of +33 to +36, with a centre bore of 70.5mm whereas the stock 350GT's ones are 66mm, can't seem to find any hubcentric rings that fit that difference though. 
    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
×
×
  • Create New...