Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes i noticed the oil once i put the pic up but no oil anywhere else, i will check it tommorow. Doesnt seem consistent with oil, looks like it may be a drip or something

There is absolutely no more area that could be taken out. its been CNC mill out according to factory gasket.

gasketon.jpg

The corners of where the gaskets goes over has been tapered out and rounded off.

in.jpg

Its been give out as much clearance as it possibly can be inside the Nissan 6 bolt fange.

side.jpg

The adapter flange is pretty free flow, made no differences on dyno.

The oil must've been dropped on as every where else are completely dry unless its been sitting upright for some time.

Made pretty much no differences for the power level I've run it at. All new ones made this year are fitted with the cut out flange. How ever you are welcome to send back the adaptor to get it machined out to the current spec at no cost. Put it back on the dyno and see if that makes any differences.

Looks like you had fun getting it off, is that 3 snapped bolts still stuck in there?

How old is that version of the g3? I wonder if they are all like that?

I didnt take it off. Mate took it off his own car. Took him ages. It was funny watching him actually. I know he is gonna read this Hahaha.

Tao do ur own turbo's have this lip? Do u Think it will be a restriction?

It was heaps of fun , the snapped bolts are the easy ones , the pain in the ass one was the one that didn't snap.

I believe oil was a result of a dip from feed line when fighting to pull out of the bay.

I'm interested for some data supporting the effects from the Type B .82 rear housing working with a existing Type A .82 setup on stock manifold. My expectation would be no lose in top end power with 400RPMs gain in response, totally different drivability. This apply to All ATR43/PU high flow's .82 Rear housing including Type A FNT and older None FNT versions.

^^^

Any one whom's interested in above turbo for a Bolton setup on factory exhaust manifold is recommended to have it send in for the Type B turbine housing conversion. Unless used with an proper aftermarket exhaust manifold.

Yes I've tried that in the exact same print for the SS1PU. It became super responsive but only made 247rwkws.

That method of FNT arrangement is made to trade off top end power for response. Its fine for the Type A G3 as the power level its capable is beyond what factory exhaust manifold can flow internally gated.

Also should go back for few more dyno runs to see if the new clutch made a difference in performance. Generally there will be a difference if its is noticeable on road.

Edit: stao posted the answer

Stao, have you sold any of the new g2.5's you recently posted up results for?

I'm interested to see results on a stock exhaust manifold

Edited by Mitcho_7

Not yet. Its still on my car. The maximum it can do on stock manifold will be around the 280rwkws mark. Unless E85 which can push it further.

You seem to have become a hater of the stock manifold in recent weeks Stao. At what point do you think it becomes a hindrance and are you now recommending customers to change it?

280rwkws internally gated is about ideal. There is a noticeable difference after going to the Brea manifold. I think Trent did mention a difference between 2~3 degrees of timing in certain areas. which stock manifold would heat soak, pin with power band nosing down, while aftermarket kept on calming. making a big 330rwkws bolton turbo was a mistake.

Hoping to get that much in couple weeks from my SS2 but I've opened the manifold up a fair bit plus heaps of head work and cams. Will change manifold later if I have to but for now just want it back together

E85 will solve most of the problems. How ever its not very available at this stage.

I'm also updating the SS2's profile for better, more consistent power delivery and possibly even better response. Will have results in roughly 2 weeks time or when Trent's dyno is repaired.

*Should* have a result with my new setup tomorrow. Car is fixed and running perfectly now, will hit the dyno tomorrow. So providing nothing else goes wrong, will finally have a result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...