Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

Ahhhhhh yeh my bad, that may well be the case. I forgot we are talking about an R33 here. Mine is a 34. So it's specifically the Z32/R32 ECU that they don't want to NIStune, not just NIStune in general.

Sorry if I got your hopes up again lol, should have made the connection :blush:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update:

Due to popular demand we've started manufacturing .82 type B Nissan OEM fitting rear housings in batches. This results a saving of $185 per turbine. I will pass it onto our consumers:

82turbinehousings.jpg

The new price for any none billet ATR43 in .82 rear housing is $1265 inc gst, oil line and actuator.

The New price for none billet PU high flow service is $1235 inc gst, oil line and actuator.

New price for externally gated none billet ATR43 in .82 rear housing is $900

Price of all Billet wheel based turbochargers built on .82 rear housings also reduces by the saving amount.

It will also save turn around time from the current 4 working days to 1 working day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll add to that it's probably only R33's they dont want to Nistune.

At the end of the day, i'm not unhappy with the tuner.

I arrived thinking everything was ok because i hadn't boosted it. I tried as best as i could to make sure it was all ok.

But i arrived with maybe a few inferior or defective parts and he did what he could.

I'll do what i can and get it retuned and cross my fingers i guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I follow this thread religiously but the amount of abbreviations etc is really starting to get confusing. Now there is type a b and c. Think I will go back 10 or 15 pages and try again:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I follow this thread religiously but the amount of abbreviations etc is really starting to get confusing. Now there is type a b and c. Think I will go back 10 or 15 pages and try again:)

Maybe stao can edit the first page with all the models and variants listing price, power and response (for r33 at least)

I know there's page references there but a simple table might work well :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I follow this thread religiously but the amount of abbreviations etc is really starting to get confusing. Now there is type a b and c. Think I will go back 10 or 15 pages and try again:)

lol it's like a good suspense/thriller flick...if you're not paying close attention from the start you miss the important bits and the end doesn't make sense. Second viewing imminent...

The Kando thread is pretty hard to track too...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've re-made the ATR43 screen print and re-organized the latest dyno sheets into that page, plus I've high lighted couple of important points for power making and turbine housing selection. you can get full details at our website.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes. the discount apply to any one orders any ATR43 turbos in .82 rear housing.

I've developed a newer billet prototype that is made to max out the factory exhaust manifold with super fast response. Will post some results once trent's dyno is fixed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are some price adjustments done to the SS series turbochargers. The billet SS version will cost $1513 complete with Internal wastegate in OEM Nissan dump pattern with braided oil line, GST inclusive.

Externally gated Billet SS turbochargers is also available for the price of $1150, in T3x.

I've also added some of dyno results from customers cars, which is likely to be archieved in a factory setup using stock engine unless you have have a forgied engine with strengthened head with using a steam pipe exhaust manifold like mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stao. I'm bring in my PU high flow back to you this weekend for the type B rear housing you've got as well as getting the cut out of the adaptor flange. I will post some feedbacks for you once they are back. can't wait :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Further updates:

Been doing couple of drawings and thoughts converting an internally gated turbo to external using the actuator in the direction of where IW would open, it will also be fully hidden.

Also further developments on FNT stack turbine housings involving 60 small nozzles instead of current one. If works good it should give me Type A power with even better response then Type B .82 housing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Further updates:

Been doing couple of drawings and thoughts converting an internally gated turbo to external using the actuator in the direction of where IW would open, it will also be fully hidden.

Hey Stao, here is a link of an FP product to give you an idea re the above:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSMFP86HTA&Category_Code=Turbo-FP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the inputs. Realistically to get more power from stock manifold would be external gating from the manifold. And I've seen that making very noticeable difference. At this stage I'm in the process to engineering a bolton turbo that has such good drivability that it would be suited from anything up to 280rwkws.

On the same time I'm bargaining with brea about this bolton oem steam pipe manifold with external gate port, that makes some externally gated only configurations worth producing, which can have super fast responses with excellent top end power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...