Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ours are aftermarket .60 A/R.

Mine blew my cooler piping.

I'm cool. lol

Thanks for the info.

I blew my cooler piping yesterday as well dammit!! Had to be the hardest to get to join as well :P

This is a ATR43G2 profile turbo on a stock r34 gtt. rb25detneo.

Pretty sure both you and Trozzle have ATR43G3 profiles not G2. Just so other people ordering dont get confused.

that was a quote from someone on here in another thread... i forgot who and where though...

Like i said it's just a rough calc. it all does depend on tyres and diff ratios, but meh close enough.

Pretty sure both you and Trozzle have ATR43G3 profiles not G2. Just so other people ordering dont get confused.

what's the difference between the g2 and g3? To my knowledge, I'm running ART43G2 w/ 0.60 A/R compressor, and 0.82 exhaust. Neither the compressor housing nor the exhaust housing are original pieces from my stock turbo.

Pretty sure both you and Trozzle have ATR43G3 profiles not G2. Just so other people ordering dont get confused.

I orderd a G2... I have no idea what the differences are so i really couldn't tell ya lol

Big thanks to Status for his work.

Did another run today with the modified ceramic bb ATR43G3 prototype. Once again few designs worked and some didn't. Its going back to the drawning board.

Also my Valve springs started to go funny. Time for some stronger springs.

atr43g3300rwkw.jpg

atr43g3300rwkwboost.jpg

So what did you trial? Just the bearing type vs plain bearing, or did you also swap comp housings and trial ported shroud vs full shroud?

Assuming no changes to the tune were made.

The overlay shows little quantifiable difference but is there any difference on the road and if so which gave you the best "feel"?

Both curves they were from the same turbo, they were 2x continues runs. Motor started having valve bounce issues. This is without the surge slots.

I also did some power enhancement modifications the turbine housing which worked but got unexpected lag.

Are you ever going to overlay the various turbo dyno sheets for us to see? Comparison is still very hard to do for your products and I am quite confused where they all stand against each other.

Identical turbos one with the ceramic bearing vs the standard bearing would be great to see overlayed as well. Status should have all the data saved so it should be very easy to compile.

Edited by Rolls

Test car's got engine head problems. Power curve is not responding correctly to tune change due to valve bounce. I will do another run after head reconditioning and get some overplayed sheets with more accurate results then.

Also As far as I can seen I don't really think I can get any thing more responsive then Abe's in this size. Its not about the bearings, its about the surge pressure acting against the large flake of the blades. That slows the shaft speed till the turbine wheel produces more torque. Need to get the anti surge slots working or reduce the size of the blade for more response.

Thanks for another member sending in his footage with an ATR43G3 in .82 turbine running Vipec ECU.

298rwkws with VCT always off and 285rwkws with always VCT on. Not sure how that ECU system worked.

atr43g285rwkw.jpg

Whoever set the parameters for VCT on/off RPM muffed it lol...I think it would be as simple as to set it to turn OFF at whatever RPM those 2 power curves crossed over.

Whoever set the parameters for VCT on/off RPM muffed it lol...I think it would be as simple as to set it to turn OFF at whatever RPM those 2 power curves crossed over.

Yeah I think people do always on always off comparisons then turn it on/off where the graphs overlap, eg turn on just above idle as it always makes more power down low and then turn it off around 5500rpm or wherever it is starting to suck power. I'm pretty sure the vipec can turn it on/off at any setpoints.

Don't know why all the rb30 guys get rid of it, sure it might be extra work and f**king around but the difference in huge, eg 500rpm taken off turbo lag and a solid 20kw before that.

Also As far as I can seen I don't really think I can get any thing more responsive then Abe's in this size. Its not about the bearings, its about the surge pressure acting against the large flake of the blades. That slows the shaft speed till the turbine wheel produces more torque. Need to get the anti surge slots working or reduce the size of the blade for more response.

Problem is if you do that (artificially reducing the profile of the comp wheel) then you push less air into the engine and hence make less torque on the exhaust wheel, you also spin it harder for any specific air flow causing it to top out earlier, be better just using a smaller wheel, get the same effects, comes onto boost sooner but tops out earlier as well. Fairly sure your results with the surge slots confirmed this, came onto boost easier but topped out earlier with less peak power?

The only way I can see it working is if the surge slots are only effective at low rpm and don't leak air at higher rpm, could do something similar with a bov that purposely leaks on low load but it is all starting to sound very tricky.

Edited by Rolls

Yeah the ViPEC lets you do pretty much anything you want. It's f**king amazing.

Perhaps I should get a single run done on my car with VCT turned off so I can do the same thing....hmm....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...