Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread


Recommended Posts

i'm guessing tin can or pipe the size of the intake pipe (to the turbo) with an air hose fitting and a bottle of soapy water (old school bicycle inner tube leak style) and go over all the joints

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have to ask Trent, he did some process to tune it. Dont know much more about it.

I just know the car feels a lot laggier and less power. Dont even really need a dyno but the dyno backs it up how it feels.

we were comparing different cars so the folder thats opened last will be shown.

Ahh k..yeah it was unlikely it would cause a 20kw difference anyway, just found it odd..

Could it be your WG isnt closing properly??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stao, just a quick one I think would be valuable to your thread;

Are you able to back cut exhaust wheels?

I want to do this to make 2835 from 3071 or 3240 from 3540, thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stao, just a quick one I think would be valuable to your thread;

Are you able to back cut exhaust wheels?

I want to do this to make 2835 from 3071 or 3240 from 3540, thanks.

To trim or back cut wheels. yes we can do that. you need to give me the specs thou. or a set of 2835 housings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i'm guessing tin can or pipe the size of the intake pipe (to the turbo) with an air hose fitting and a bottle of soapy water (old school bicycle inner tube leak style) and go over all the joints

Yup exactly, I bought some pvc caps from bunnings and use a silicone joiner and clamp to block off both the intake and the throttlebody. Then put an air hose fitting into the intake cap and insert air pressure. Any leaks I have had on previous cars have been quite loud and very easy to locate.

Just need to find my damn pump!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting plot of the same turbo on Tao's car (yellow and green) and my car (red):

This is with the car running as it was previously making 279rwkw. Both yellow and red are running just off the actuator (no boost controller) but on Tao's car he is able to hold the boost flatter and get more boost up top.

post-29432-1288229088_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you reinstall the bov afterwards? I cant see how a bov restrictor plate could reduce power? Affect driveability sure.

No i threw that plate in the bin it had cost me alot of money trying to find the problem! well it was messing around with the cars afrs, and at 10% throttle it would open the bov and hiss, could only hear it on the dyno and then the car would dump in petrol making it run really rich. I was there when my tuner did it, i couldnt believe it too but taking it out worked, u could hear the car was running so much better!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting plot of the same turbo on Tao's car (yellow and green) and my car (red):

This is with the car running as it was previously making 279rwkw. Both yellow and red are running just off the actuator (no boost controller) but on Tao's car he is able to hold the boost flatter and get more boost up top.

could it be possibly different parts such as exhaust, dump pipe, cat, air intake, intercooler brand, piping and design? better sealing of cylinders as tao has just rebuilt to stock spec with cp forgies. Maybe try another actuator? maybe a leak in a small pipe such as the ones going to the stock boost controller?

hopefully its just a leak somewhere which is nice an easy to fix :)

Edited by DJSimmo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

could it be possibly different parts such as exhaust, dump pipe, cat, air intake, intercooler brand, piping and design? better sealing of cylinders as tao has just rebuilt to stock spec with cp forgies. Maybe try another actuator? maybe a leak in a small pipe such as the ones going to the stock boost controller?

hopefully its just a leak somewhere which is nice an easy to fix :)

Just to clear it up that red plot was when the car was running right. I am happy with my dyno being 5rwkw of so less for most of the curve and a bit less at the top cause the boost isnt holding. When you look at the peak power figure mine is quite a bit behind Tao's but if you look at the curve its only right up top that there is much of a difference.

I just want to get back to the red curve. Yup I am hoping its a leak somewhere too! I am not running any boost controller, not even the standard one. I am using the same actuator as what Tao used in those green and yellow plots. I will look into getting boost to hold flat later on, at the moment I am just focussed on finding this issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.

post-29432-1288307121_thumb.jpg

post-29432-1288307125_thumb.jpg

post-29432-1288307129_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.

nice... and you didnt need to pull the front bar :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't assume that's the only leak though, still go over everything else to be sure. Otherwise, congrats! Hope it goes better now :P

Once I have replaced that hose and clamps I will retest for leaks until I am happy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice... and you didnt need to pull the front bar :P

hahaha yup I was dreading taking off the front bar and driving across melbourne. I get enough cop attention already, without a front bar would be suicide!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.

LOL at that leak tester! Good work

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...