Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 219
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Aiming to get back to the dyno the weekend (or Friday) after the easter long weekend.

Guilt, will you be free sometime around then?

I want to wind the boost up from 17PSi to 19PSi also. Hopefully then with a bit more boost and the hi flow cat, it will crank out ~300AWKW.

It will be interesting to get a power run done on a Sydney Dyno down the track to compare results.

How did the dyno run go Bakes?

Due to Paul having to go to Qld for work I took the car to Sydney to get it final tuned. Car got tuned today by Scott at Insight Motorsports. Ive spoken to him over the phone, it made 396 Horsepower (295Kw) at all 4 wheels at 1.3 Bar.

This is with my 19 inch Volks on also so with stock wheels it will pull 310-315 All wheel Kw. Im looking forward to driving the mofo.

Ill post up graphs when I get them.

Why would it make more power at the wheels with the 18's ?

of all people i thought you would know this dude... unless you use a hub dyno.. the size of the wheels and friction properties of the tyres will affect the power output on any particular dyno.. high reading or low reading.. his volks have a rolling diameter of 675mm while the original gtr wheels are 654mm, so the original wheels will give a higher speed reading and slightly higher power reading. the big wheels will give a higher torque reading and less speed.. it doesnt matter anyway as the dyno was just used to tune it.. scott @ insight said it has got more to offer and its a very safe tune for day to day driving.. and its been tuned for maximum low down response... not top top end power.

regardless of power readings and dynos and crap thats gone on and what anyone thinks.. this car now hauls. it has fantastic driveablity, excellent fuel economy, and power to boot.. for the amount of punting bakes does.. the money has been spent, the parts are fitted, and the result at the end are what matters, it should keep him happy for a while..

simon, if your not content with anything about bakes gtr, feel free to line your r31 up anytime you like (or your mates mp3 player) .. until then.. let him enjoy his car stop worrying about what you could have done for him..

;)

Car made 400HP at 4 wheels but was pulled back a bit on final tune to keep everything nice and safe (stock motor) Not running crazy boost either. (only ~1.2/1.3 Bar)

The tune is fantastic, runs so smooth. Tuned for cold start also, Im very happy with it. Ive found no need to give it more than 70% throttle yet either, she goes pretty good ;)

Here is my performance mod list:

* HKS Front pipe, HKS rear pipe with Hi Power Muffler, Hi flow cat

* Garrett 2860R-5 Turbos

* HKS SPL full piping kit with HKS super power flow pods

* Nismo Fuel Pump

* Turbosmart fuel regulator with pressure gauge

* Hypertune Billet fuel rail

* Siemens 610cc Injectors

* OS Giken Cam gears

* Nismo twin plate clutch

* Vipec V44 ECU

* Tech Edge Wideband AFR controller

* HKS EVC6

Tune results at different boost settings on Insight Motorsports Dyno, ALL WHEEL HORSEPOWER: (19 inch volks on)

img1476aaa.jpg

Now for those interested I had some fun with excel to compare my results from where my car was stock except for exhaust to where the car is now:

Notes: Above dyno graph is in All Wheel Hosepower, the graph below I made is in All Wheel Kw

: Blue line was done on IS Motor Racing Dyno with stock wheels/tyres

: Yellow and red lines are on Insight Motorsports Dyno with 19 inch wheels

stockturbosvs5turbosdyn.jpg

My biggest loss in response is ~ the 100Kw mark with a loss of ~550/600 RPM. The -5s catch up ~ the 4400 RPM mark

Would be interesting to do another power run now on the IS Motor Racing Dyno.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...