Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the standard GTST turbocharger is a ball bearing, oil cooled, water cooled unit which is fantastic off the bat

I thought the standard GTST turbocharger was plain bearing not ball bearing??

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hmmm, maybe i need to do some further investigation... what other signs should i be looking for that it has been hiflowed? how can i determine if it is inconel?

tony -thought the stock impellors were stainless anyway? cheers

The stock impeller is ceramic. This is why there are so many stories of the standard turbo dying. Imo half the reason for a high flow is that you end up with a stronger more heat resistant turbo.

sorry, yes i misinterpreted tony, i thought he was talking about the cold side, just realised he was referring to the fact that stainless is not magnetic. anyone know how i can determine if the exhaust wheel is stainless or ceramic? regards, Daniel

std unit is ball bearing, oil cooled, water cooled, plastic compressor wheel (s1 R33) or nylon compressor wheel (s2 R33) and cermamic exhaust wheel

typically made by hitachi

Are you sure the standard GTST turbo is ball-bearing? Was quite confident it wasn't... I know GTR turbos are, but also obviously a completely different unit... A lot of highflows mention that the CHRA is up-graded to a ball-bearing, steel-wheeled setup. But even before that had always thought these weren't ball-bearing

What the hell are you guys on about. The stock RB25 and RB26 turbos are T25 journal bearing. The R34 N1 RB26 used Garret GT25 ball bearing units.

Why are we suddenly questioning this, i thought this was common knowledge on here?

Edited by PM-R33
my mate not too long ago took of my rocker covers and painted them and noticed the throttle housing was putrid so he cleaned it all and took off the plenum also cause it was dirty and he put it back together and the difference was the car was revving at 1200rpm instead of 850rpm where it normally was.

could that have anything to do with it?

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak which could cause the problems you describe. Listen for a noise of air sucking at idle. Also how could it be from not too long ago as reading some of your previous posts your mate painted the rocker covers back in December 2008 and you've still got the same problem as back then. Might be time to fix it properly hey.. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...