Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yep, I have tried both the dunlops and the bridgestones. not sure how "hard" my data is, but the dunlops are definitely better on track. :rofl: better than some semi's i tried too on 19s.

I reckon getting a set of dunlops on your stock rims for track and keeping your HREs with the bridgestones for street is a good idea handbrake. :)

By all accounts Dunlops are softer than Bridgestones, hence better track grip. Nissan uses them on Nurburgring for a reason. How many track days will we get out of either of them?

Will that extra one or two seconds saved per lap compensate for less track mileage if one is not actually doing Targa Tasmania with sponsors paying for tyres?

I love taking my cars around EC, OP or Wakefield as much as the next guy, but I would hate chucking this expensive rubber out after only two or three moderately intense track days.

Also, having two sets of Bridgestones would give us that extra backup in case of a flat on the street set. It comes down to individual choice and priorities.

Personally, I am still sitting on the fence, but having Taleb Tyres come up with a more competitive proposition certainly helps.

Interestingly, their Dunlop set is A$200 dearer than their Bridgestones, whilst with the Tire Rack, it is the opposite, by USD 22.

Edited by GT-Ricer
  • 7 months later...
By all accounts Dunlops are softer than Bridgestones, hence better track grip. Nissan uses them on Nurburgring for a reason. How many track days will we get out of either of them?

Will that extra one or two seconds saved per lap compensate for less track mileage if one is not actually doing Targa Tasmania with sponsors paying for tyres?

I love taking my cars around EC, OP or Wakefield as much as the next guy, but I would hate chucking this expensive rubber out after only two or three moderately intense track days.

Also, having two sets of Bridgestones would give us that extra backup in case of a flat on the street set. It comes down to individual choice and priorities.

Personally, I am still sitting on the fence, but having Taleb Tyres come up with a more competitive proposition certainly helps.

Interestingly, their Dunlop set is A$200 dearer than their Bridgestones, whilst with the Tire Rack, it is the opposite, by USD 22.

GT Ricer, I have tracked both tyres, Dunlops are better by about 1 - 1.5 seconds per EC lap I reckon. My first set of Dunlops saw 9000 kms including 85 laps of Bathurst and about 140 laps of OP. That set has still not reached the depth indicator, but are well worn at the edges. My current set have seen 100 laps of OP, 40 Laps of EC and the skids. They are still going strong (ish).

I think the key in the long run is to have a different wheel/tyre set up for the track. Hence the order of Volks and Hoosiers.

  • 2 months later...
Here are the wheels we currently have on our car.

20 inch Volk Racing GTC's

Also running the Mines 600ps upgrade.

off topic.. but JPC do you have a dyno chart for your car?

I have the hks gt600.. and would love to see the comparison.

hks gt600 = 723Nm torque @ 3700 RPM and 518 HP @ 6100 RPM

depulu wheels refinished them. awesome job, word of advice though if anyone ever gets modular wheels apart for refinishing - just watch out for valve stem leaks when they put them back together .

there is a set of 21 inch HRE 890R which look fantastic for sale on NAGTROC. similar design, slightly more modern.

cheap compared to what I paid for these.

see link below. these are charcoal centre, colour matched lip for gunmetal. do you have titanium?

http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=39873

  • 3 weeks later...

ive been thinking about wheels too

im a sucker for JDM wheels - i just cant get my head around the high prices for US wheels

atm im leaning towards a set of Work Varianza T1S - there's really not much wheels out there that suit the gtr - oem wheels work best with oem ride height.

Those BBS style HREs look a bit weird on the GTR, too much lip maybe, or perhaps the stretched tyre look doesnt work with the GTRs slab guards - you need a wheel with a big face, or just go 21 or 22

have Work VS-XX on my M3 atm with a bit of stretch in the rear to tuck under the guards (Bilstein PSS9s) and had Volk SF-Challenges with TopSecret Gold centres on my old 350, so will be sticking with tradition on the GTR

IMG_4555.jpg

IMG_4566.jpg

133_3353.jpg

133_3363.jpg

Edited by domino_z
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
I found a couple of photos on my HDD but no idea from which source, but i believe they are TE37-g2's? Just love the look of them!

post-2240-1248335725_thumb.jpgpost-2240-1248335741_thumb.jpg

I think there is a set for sale at Tyre Power in Hawthorn, if you are in Melbourne check them out, from memory they are 20x13 and 20x11 and he mentioned that they were only 2 weeks old. A decent saving to be had.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...