Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no, official weights coming, will post when available. will be more i'm afraid.

i think the stock GTR wheels are 25.6 lbs F and 26.9 lbs R

a dedicated track set up is coming though so won't effect performance where it counts.

Looks great, Mark. Nice choice in wheels.

I think a little height adjustment will really set it off.

If only my driveway would let me! have to guide the thing in and out every day as is. only solution is to buy a new house and garage.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Just thought i'd post up here as well since its relevant,

for those looking for aftermarket wheels for their GTR. the Enkei GTC01 is now available special fitment made for the new GTR in 20".

more info and pictures in my other post in the trader section : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-G-t280086.html

We also have the OEM Bridgestone in stock, and have the dunlop on order for unbeatable prices as other GTR owners have found out when shopping around(and cheaper than importing from tirerack etc...)

PM for more info or details.

Ali

Just thought i'd post up here as well since its relevant,

for those looking for aftermarket wheels for their GTR. the Enkei GTC01 is now available special fitment made for the new GTR in 20".

more info and pictures in my other post in the trader section : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-G-t280086.html

We also have the OEM Bridgestone in stock, and have the dunlop on order for unbeatable prices as other GTR owners have found out when shopping around(and cheaper than importing from tirerack etc...)

PM for more info or details.

Ali

Can you PM me with the details on price of the Bridgestones and the Dunlops as we are about to put an order together. I can't PM you as I don't have enough posts yet being green to all this forum stuff

Thanks

Just thought i'd post up here as well since its relevant,

for those looking for aftermarket wheels for their GTR. the Enkei GTC01 is now available special fitment made for the new GTR in 20".

more info and pictures in my other post in the trader section : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-G-t280086.html

We also have the OEM Bridgestone in stock, and have the dunlop on order for unbeatable prices as other GTR owners have found out when shopping around(and cheaper than importing from tirerack etc...)

PM for more info or details.

Ali

Sounds great, any indication on the Dunlop prices? and out of interest has anyone tried the dunlops at the track, relative to the bridgestones? really would like some hard data on how much quicker they are from those who have tried them

I have the Dunlops on order with Taleb Tyres, they are going on in the next couple of weeks, a track day booked for late August, so I will let you know.

I will back up their pricing, I shopped everywhere and these guys did the best price for me....I would 100% recommend them.

Cheers,

Gibbo.

Seen a few after market rims for R35, some nice, some not so nice, all I will say on the topic is that the Original factory rims look best and IMO are the best looking stock std factory rim on ANY production car at the moment. I can understand people want something different, but gee I reckon Nissan REALLY nailed the formula with the look of standard alloy.

We run the Dunlops, they are quicker everywhere ;)

yeah, going with the stock wheels and the dunlops for track use for now. Especially since people are starting to provide reasonable pricing for them.

BTW Martin, the Midpipe arrived today, its in the boot for now...

Edited by handbrake

yep, I have tried both the dunlops and the bridgestones. not sure how "hard" my data is, but the dunlops are definitely better on track. :P better than some semi's i tried too on 19s.

I reckon getting a set of dunlops on your stock rims for track and keeping your HREs with the bridgestones for street is a good idea handbrake. :D

but the bridgestones are definitely better on track. :P better than some semi's i tried too on 19s.

Dunlops I hope, about to pull the trigger on them anyway!

Edited by handbrake

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...