Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i hit sandown for the first time on ku's the other day. times wernt too bad. the tyres seem to be getter better, 3-4 track days in they are

much better than the first couple, i have turn in grip now, ya. still feel em moving around after a couple of laps tho. which the 595rs dont.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ty...50#entry5065250

Has anyone got any feedback on best camber to for use the KU36 on a R32 GTR

they won't need as much camber as stickier dedicated track tyres. and with their softer construction, they will be less sensitive to geometry changes as well. ie you won't get much benefit for running an extra degree. really, just good performance road car settings will be fine.

good price at this point in time

my rears lasted 6 months...i wonder why! :happy:

my fronts are still going but i am looking to replace shortly

only unsure comment i have about them is i have vibration in the fronts.

from what i can see it looks like every second inner block has worn a little lower than others and this is the vibration i am feeling.

not sure on the camber setup...but advised the mech for a street setup so dont believe it would be too aggressive

  • 2 weeks later...
I'm just after a road tyre replacement. I might do like 1 track day a year.

Are the Kumho KU36 suitable for this or are there cheaper tyres that will suit a daily driver?

The price point on the Kumho's seem reasonable.

I'm in the same boat mate. I'm pretty keen on trying the Ku36, but wondering if the Ku31 would be better suited to my application, and I've been quoted the same price for both. Anyone have any thoughts?

I paid $170 each for 235 45 17's.

Took the car for a squirt through the spur and really enjoyed the grip, handles like its on rails now compared to the old crappy tyres. Need to run 38 to 40 psi to feel right and stop the squirmy feeling. Very low noise levels and minimal tramming.

I found them good in the wet, although they were brand new so will only be better now they are scrubbed in.

Have to see how long they last now.

Option1Garage do them for a reasonable price delivered, but if you're in Sydney hit up Tempe tyres!

I've been running the XS KU36 for around 6 months now, they are an excellant tyre for their price. I do agree, they need to be warm before they're able to perform.

They dont have to be the KU36, KU31 will be ok if cheaper. They are only for pottering around on the street but if you can pm me the details for 2 x 265/40/17s (not sure if that size is available, maybe 255/40/17) and 2 x 245/40/17s or there abouts

Depending on price may end up going Federal simply because they have a 265 tyre (sorry OT)

OTR on Westal Rd in Clayton sell & fit them for pretty much the same price compared to getting them freighted from option1 garage in Queensland. They can also get heaps of other tyres and very reasonable prices so they are definitely worth a look if you are in Melbourne.

My experience is based on the 245/45/17's on my RB25 r32 with around 220rwkw.

I am about 5,000km into a set of KU36's that replaced some Bridgestone RE01-R's. The Bridgestone's definitely had better turn in due to stiffer sidewalls and didn't move around as much as the KU36's do, but as far as putting the power down in a straight line the KU36's are doing a better job (not sure if this is because RE01-R's were old and possibly hardened up after a few heat cycles). As far as a track tire, the grip of the KU36's fall off alot quicker when they get hot (and need to run 38 to 40psi to stop them squirming too much), probably only good for 2 to 3 laps tops, but for a daily driven car that has to soak up some bumps with the occasional spirited drive & track day in mind then I would highly recommend them.

They work fine in the wet once the shine is scrubbed off them and don't seem to wearing overly quickly. I would be comparing the KU36's to something like Adrenalin's, not semi's. Their construction is closer to a road tyre but the compound seems to be closer in softness to a semi.

Just my 2 cents.

I've been running KU-31's on my car for the last 3 years or so, and think they're great.

Reading the positive reviews you all seem to be giving the KU-36, as they're similar money to the -31, I'm considering changing to them at my next tyre change.

My concern is the tyre wear. Anyone have any experience on how the life of these, compare to the KU-31?

They dont have to be the KU36, KU31 will be ok if cheaper. They are only for pottering around on the street but if you can pm me the details for 2 x 265/40/17s (not sure if that size is available, maybe 255/40/17) and 2 x 245/40/17s or there abouts

Depending on price may end up going Federal simply because they have a 265 tyre (sorry OT)

Traction Tyres did a great price on them for me Roy... Shane will look after ya if you mention you're a Vic member :) By the time you buy them cheap for somewhere else like Option1 or OTR and get them fitted/balance, i think TT came out a shade cheaper... or maybe $10 more expensive. Much easier to deal all with them and support a supporter :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...