Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had a 605awhp stagea rs4 with shit rims and stock external bodywork, black intercooler, nothing to give it away, lets say i had a few laughs in the time it was driving on the street, bunch of young guys in a vx clubsport r8 pulled up at the lights and commented on the sound of the exhust "sounds fast" he said in a sarcastic way. Lets just say once i hit 2nd gear it was all over and he did the fly by when i slowed down and next lights i pulled up again next to him and his passenger said 'f**k mate you need a parachute".

Also had a good run with a motorbike from the lights and he didnt expect it thats for sure, he pulled up after the run and said what the hell is in that thing haha.

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i had a 605awhp stagea rs4 with shit rims and stock external bodywork, black intercooler, nothing to give it away, lets say i had a few laughs in the time it was driving on the street, bunch of young guys in a vx clubsport r8 pulled up at the lights and commented on the sound of the exhust "sounds fast" he said in a sarcastic way. Lets just say once i hit 2nd gear it was all over and he did the fly by when i slowed down and next lights i pulled up again next to him and his passenger said 'f**k mate you need a parachute".

hahahaha thats gold!

i had some fun in my ford laser tx3 4wd turbo back in the day... was dead stock, mint as, full history and kept up with most stock/mildly done up imports.

gave a few people a surprise... i remember an s14 gunning it off the lights up to 4th, looked over and i was just up to his door, he was fairly shocked hahaha... didnt win anything but was good enough for the wtf look :rofl:

mate of mine had a 1982 sigma with a sr20 in it. cooler was relatively well hidden. stock 15" mags, stock tint (which was that old bluey colour and was peeling a little bit). pretty much just looked like a clean stock sigma, apart from the exhaust note and the fact it ran mid 12's. he was going to put the motor into an old late 70's chrysler galant wagon (brown, roof racks, stock 13" wheels, blanket over the rear seat, etc) but he put the 15" wheels on it at work, drove it about 3km home and took them straight off because it was horrible to drive (still had the stock motor in it) because it was all over the place. the tyres just followed the road, and he just thought it was going to be too much work getting all the suspension sorted/replaced to get it to be driveable on the road with any power.

Old school Audi gets my seal of win.. Audi 80 or S2

General lee audi for example..

Simple rule with a good sleeper though.. probably doesn't matter how they look because people won't be able to get a good enough look in time any way.

Edited by bryno

The Jap spec SSS bluebird is a nice sleeper

Nissan_U13_Bluebird_SSS_ATTESA.jpg

They're already 4wd and have the sr20 in them, cheap as and chances are now the paint is peeling too.

Edited by 240k convertible

My daily driver is a 1989 Mazda 323 Shades. 1.6L Carby, 3 speed auto. Slowest car I have ever been in lol. However, it is comfy and light. I see it as a perfect candidate for an SR20. Its brown with brown interior. It looks slow because it is slow. But with an SR20, some decent tyres and somehow make it not FWD it would be awesome. Its like 900kg or something.

  • 11 months later...

for me it would be a toyota crown station wagon, BA XRT engine and gear box, black inter cooler, venetian blinds in the back window etc etc.

For me a sleeper has to be reasonably quiet, which a non forced induction motor couldnt do. XR motor is big enough to push the car along with minimal mods fairly rapidly plus the car is big enough to hide some decent suspension under it with out much hassle

post-53947-1278319787_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Ford BA series or later ex-taxi pick up for nix - put in XR6 turbo engine, trans and suspension - work the mutha f*cker. Put in all the curry decorations too :blink:

Datsun 910 bluebird - sr20det and all mods - keep it looking stock with the louver and granny/grandpa hat on the back seat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...