Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Think outside the box Toshi, the idle can be adjusted with the adjustment screw on the side of the cable throttle, im using an EA Ford one I think.

The stock ecu will go into limp mode which is 1200 revs, then the Emanage will take full standalone control = WIN. :thumbsup:

Enlarging the throttle will work to some extent but im just sick of the whole thing, I want full control of the air and attached to my foot. What's wrong with a throttle cable anyway?

I think if you change to wire throttle; idle up will not work (aircon and power steering etc) .

Also how to fix ecu feed back?

ok ill go for a drive tomorrow and see what the nismo ecu says on the informeter.

anyone got a small camera with an LED light you can stick right before the throttle body to see what it does?? :P

http://www.carsales....id=12C9CF966E63

OMG WTF cheap...tempting..................................................:ninja:

very nice.....looks like a money pit.....nice project for someone though!

ok ill go for a drive tomorrow and see what the nismo ecu says on the informeter.

anyone got a small camera with an LED light you can stick right before the throttle body to see what it does?? :P

Aldi were selling an inspection camera for $100 but I dont think you could record off it. Need a miniature bullet camera mounted in there. lol.

I think if you change to wire throttle; idle up will not work (aircon and power steering etc) .

Also how to fix ecu feed back?

By fitting my VQ30 ecu ( as apparently they do not have fly by wire although I have not been able to verify that myself). That should handle the basic functions and auto while the piggyback and ebc will take care of the turbo and engine management.

Aldi were selling an inspection camera for $100 but I dont think you could record off it. Need a miniature bullet camera mounted in there. lol.

Yeah, you can record onto one... automatically turns off after a few minutes though

I have one at my place atm :)

By fitting my VQ30 ecu ( as apparently they do not have fly by wire although I have not been able to verify that myself). That should handle the basic functions and auto while the piggyback and ebc will take care of the turbo and engine management.

Mate just sell it on Ebay or whatever......It wont work!.....I tried to give hint you a hint on that before!

It's different how? let's start with the way it plug's in.....and the list goes on....by the time you pay to get it sorted and if it works you would have been able to pay for a G-Zone and E-manage piggy back with the tune! ....the whole wire TB thing achievable with the correct aftermarket ECU doing the work.....next problem is the gearbox! this car is a f#$king mystery box!!!......you get past one problem only to find a new one!

Edited by Jetwreck

Toshi is under the impression there is some limp mode activated with the Emanage install causing my problem. If someone with a stock car and informeter could let him know that the stock car has the same issue? Apparently a reset could fix the issue acording to TEPS but im not holding my breath.

Quote:

If you can remove e-manage please try this.

ECU connector remove 10min then put back connector.

Throttle controller(aftermarket) connector remove.

Then Guideline for closed accelerator (throttle) position and rapid TAS guideline method.

Throttle controller connector put back.

Adjust throttle controller.

Then road test under 3000rpm.

If your problem will fix its throttle map problem.

As I cant remove my Emanage can somebody else please have a crack at this reset? Perhaps I need to lend my controller out to someone in Melbourne although im sure we are wasting our time. My ecu does have the engine light up though...

Does that method Scott/Toshii posted require an aftermarket throttle controller (ie device that modifies the resistance curve of the pedal)?

Oh, and I have no idea what the rapid TAS guideline method is either :P

Im not sure what call English スロットル全閉位置学習及び急速TAS学習.

I asked Jetwreck and he told me the translation to English is:

Guideline for closed accelerator (throttle) position and rapid TAS guideline method.

I saw many Japanese web site about this.

And some cars fixed throttle response.

Im searching about under 3000rpm problem on Japanese web but I can not fined it.

Japanese People install aftermarket throttle controller and they say its working very good.

So I can not ask to TEPS.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...