Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha yeh no problem there mate ;)

I would have thought people were referring to the actual upgrade... a de-tune was expected from Nissan anyways, probably a good 50kw down, nothing that gets factory imported in to this country comes in full spec. Its compensated for climate and harsh weather we get here as a precaution... :yes:

Really keen to hear the before number for sure, but even keener to to hear about the gain

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey guys, just to shed some light on the power figures, the kW figures at the wheels of the Oz Spec GTR R35 reflect actual advertised engine kW figures so no probs there, its just that the Jap Spec cars are definitely higher & have approx 20-25kW more at the engine from the cars that we have dyno'd so far.

Obviously this could be coincidental that we happened to get a couple of really good Jap Spec cars and a couple of average Oz Spec cars on the dyno???

We will keep you updated and post the dyno figures soon!

Hey guys, just to shed some light on the power figures, the kW figures at the wheels of the Oz Spec GTR R35 reflect actual advertised engine kW figures so no probs there, its just that the Jap Spec cars are definitely higher & have approx 20-25kW more at the engine from the cars that we have dyno'd so far.

Obviously this could be coincidental that we happened to get a couple of really good Jap Spec cars and a couple of average Oz Spec cars on the dyno???

We will keep you updated and post the dyno figures soon!

awesome, thanks

with respect i think people are referring to this:

"After running the car on the dyno it is evident that the Oz Spec car is de-tuned compared to the Jap Spec version."

Obviously the car has been on the dyno for a baseline run and the number was apparently something of a surprise. It was brought up and people are interested, where's the problem? If it can't be revealed that's ok, bit of a tease though! :)

Hi Duncan, Yeah Jim, (CRD) the 35 & 32 are similar down the straight at E/C and most blokes are getting real excited, some standard figures would be appreciated? but make them await your forecast figures to give us more time with 32, thanks

The Beast has Woken!

Here are the results of the the HKS GT570 system we have installed on a R35.

Soon we will post pictures & a video link for all to hear the magnificent sounding BEAST!

Well done guys...top stuff.

Let me guess...the owner of this car is E.B. ?

  • 2 months later...

Hi there,

We finally got our COBB PRO TUNER SOFTWARE in, along with our customers GTR R35 for a custom reflashing of the ECU.

Results were fantastic with the car making over 380kW at all wheels which is awsome considering that we are still running on standard injectors.

The larger injectors have been ordered and with further programing we should be able to dramatically increase mid range torque going by the initial test results on the chassis dyno.

Generic & custom mapping is now available from the tuning shop that made the NISSAN GTR the cult car it is today in Australia, Croydon Racing Developments!

We will keep you posted on further developments.

post-20527-1251252320_thumb.png

Nice results...but

Generic & custom mapping is now available from the tuning shop that made the NISSAN GTR the cult car it is today in Australia, Croydon Racing Developments!

I cant help myself. CRD gave the GTR its cult status in Australia? :D LOL i am not sure, but based on the amount of Suzuki GTIs you used to do back in the day i will pay the fact that you made those the cult car of the early 90s :P:D

Again, good work on the results! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...