Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stock air intake on the Challenger, which you think would be the same on a Triton, is at the middle behind the gap under the front of the bonnet. Tried my Challenger on cruise control at 100kph, absolutely rock steady. Sequential shift is handy, auto is smooth, engine is willing but it drones at 1700rpm in a high gear which I suspect is because that is just below the best torque range. Overall, so far so good :)

Stock air intake on the Challenger, which you think would be the same on a Triton, is at the middle behind the gap under the front of the bonnet. Tried my Challenger on cruise control at 100kph, absolutely rock steady. Sequential shift is handy, auto is smooth, engine is willing but it drones at 1700rpm in a high gear which I suspect is because that is just below the best torque range. Overall, so far so good :)

Fantastic news, have you towed with it yet.?

You might have found the best compromise tow vehicle (apart from the falcon - lol )

Won't be doing any towing for a while so can't comment on that. But the auto is detuned to 350nm whereas the manual is not, around 400nm I think so the auto is not going to be too spectacular. See that MRT offer a retune service to get them cracking, would bugger the warranty though for sure.

the auto is detuned to 350nm whereas the manual is not, around 400nm I think so the auto is not going to be too spectacular. See that MRT offer a retune service to get them cracking.

Got any plans to plumb in a decent trans cooler? Most modern multi speed autos seem programmed to shuffle down gears pretty quickly as soon as you hit a rise or hill. Generally keeps average road speed up but can increase temp loadings on the transmission while the torque converter locks/unlocks.

Interested to hear how the Challenger gets on for chassis stability and fuel consumption once you have a few towing miles under the belt.

It's funny there is not much mention of towing in the handbook, no mention of not using fifth gear (auto) for towing. There is some mention of using a lower gear if the coolant temp rises when going up a hill and that's about it., No tow pack option except for a towbar, no mention of an extra cooling device. Sounds like MrBitchy think that towing is no big deal. My idea would be to keep engine revs in the peak torque band whatever the terrain.

Plenty of people using Challengers for towing, from what I've read the vehicle is basically very suitable for the job, keeping in mind that there are bigger more powerful tow cars around. It's a bloody truck, it has to be able to tow :)

On towbars, the bloody ripoff prices around. Ended up with a Hayman Reece 3 tonne rated for ~$465, bitch of a thing to fit but a nice peice of work.

Ohh. Check engine light on the q7 today

Turns out some intake manifold flaps are only opening to 92%( variable intake track), which throws a check engine light

150 to fix my flaps

Lol

Flaps

Lucky it isn't the flange that died... You wouldn't be able to keep a straight face while talking to the dealer :P

And isn't it under warranty?

Looking at either a ba or au wagon (or maybe ute) for like ~5k... what would people reccomend? A bit better condition au or an average BA? Know they're similar but hoping someone knows a bit more about fords than me...

Just came back from a decent towing session down south in the work AU Sedan (4L, 6-Banger, 225k kms) towed my FC RX7 so nothing crazy. Ate some fuel with the weight in the back but didn't mind the trip home with only the trailer and no car on it. In saying that I wouldn't reccomend it if you wanted to tow every other weekend.

if given the limited option though I'd go the BA wagon, leaf springs will take the tow ball weight nicely and the slightly newer engine would be preferred. You also get the advantage of locking your shit in the boot and rear seats ;)

Edited by Hank Scorpio

Towed my 33 with a 2001 AU gas Falcon, also on board were tools, trolley jack, extra fuel and spare wheels, 400kms combined. Used one tank of gas.

Will probably replace the 180,000km old rear shocks and springs next time around for a bit of extra height.

Apart from that it did it pretty well.

I'm looking into a holden adventura wagon as my next towcar.

Anyone had one or any idea how they are?

my old boy bought an adventura when they first came out, the v8 model thinking itd be a good idea to tow the wakeboard boat, dirt bike trailer and camping trailer, it didnt mind the lighter trailers but it struggled with the boat, and as for the car itself, super UNcomfortable and really not all that crash hot to drive ..

my brother has a BA series 2 xr6 falcon ute, which we use to tow the new 3 bike trailer and it struggles a little up the big hills like Mt Sugarloaf but only the striaghts and small hills it tows it just fine ..

if i had a choice, i would buy a 100 series Landcruiser, we go to Fraser Island yearly and tow a fully packed camping trailer and it has no troubles what so ever, and the seats and ride quality are great, especially in the v8 auto's !!!

Won't be doing any towing for a while so can't comment on that. But the auto is detuned to 350nm whereas the manual is not, around 400nm I think so the auto is not going to be too spectacular. See that MRT offer a retune service to get them cracking, would bugger the warranty though for sure.

What's the would be the amount of difference to the power to the mrt tune?

Was curious as to the power increase expected with the mrt tune?

There is some info on the MRT site but no specific power outputs mentioned, unless that has changed.

Reading the driver's manual I see that there is a auto trans overheat light which is handy. After crawling underneath it to fit a tow bar etc it is definately a truck, no doubt about that :)

Edited by 260DET
  • 2 weeks later...

Apparently the auto trans overheating light is part of a partial shutdown system, once it is triggered it blocks the use of higher gears so I'm told. But I have not heard of anyone towing triggering the light yet.

Plenty of chips around for Triton/Challenger eg Chip It http://www.ebay.com....=item43a55b3d6a

Going off the Triton dyno sheet there torque is calculated at 396nm @ 2750rpm, 216 @ 3750, at the rear wheels. Stock manual puts out about 400nm at the flywheel so say a 30% improvement over that. 520nm by my dodgy calcs, wonder if the auto box which is limited to 350nm would stand up to chip power? Might need an extra cooler for a start, 520nm is not bad for a 2.5 liter engine eh :).

Edited by 260DET

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...