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its worth it...you will make more power.

Really!? I still find it hard to swallow that a thin coat of what looks like paint can make such a big difference! how does this compare to heatwrap? i have heard that heat wrap can make stainless steel brittle after a while. Is this true? And there are 2 types of ceramic coat on offer, the silver type, which is less heat resistant and then the black type which is supposedly the better coating. The black coating is SO much more expensive! I just hope that it is money well spent. What do you use Paul and why did you choose it over the other ie ceramic over heatwrap or vice versa? I was offered to have it done to the port chambers too. but i had to draw the line somewhere. i can see the logic in it, but there was a lot of mucking around having the head go between the the coating place and the head builder. Should i have done this too? Can anyone share their experiences with ceramic coating in the head?

Edited by AtomicBomberMan
Really!? I still find it hard to swallow that a thin coat of what looks like paint can make such a big difference! how does this compare to heatwrap? i have heard that heat wrap can make stainless steel brittle after a while. Is this true? And there are 2 types of ceramic coat on offer, the silver type, which is less heat resistant and then the black type which is supposedly the better coating. The black coating is SO much more expensive! I just hope that it is money well spent. What do you use Paul and why did you choose it over the other ie ceramic over heatwrap or vice versa? I was offered to have it done to the port chambers too. but i had to draw the line somewhere. i can see the logic in it, but there was a lot of mucking around having the head go between the the coating place and the head builder. Should i have done this too? Can anyone share their experiences with ceramic coating in the head?

Holding the heat in the manifold/gas path increases gas velocity and provides a harder 'hit' on the turbine. Not only will it make more power but increased velocity will spoll up the turbine quicker. More power and faster spool up is something we all want...even us knuckle dragging sraight line racers. I use the ceramic 'hi-temp' black on the hot side all the way to the end of the 'b' pipe. An example of how well it works was demonstrated by Bu5ter at the strip one night. He could touch the turbine housing after a run with his bare fingers...he said if you tried that previously you would leave your fingerprints behind. I baulk at getting pistons and or chambers done as im a little 'gun shy' when it comes to ceramic inside the engine.

Holding the heat in the manifold/gas path increases gas velocity and provides a harder 'hit' on the turbine. Not only will it make more power but increased velocity will spoll up the turbine quicker. More power and faster spool up is something we all want...even us knuckle dragging sraight line racers. I use the ceramic 'hi-temp' black on the hot side all the way to the end of the 'b' pipe. An example of how well it works was demonstrated by Bu5ter at the strip one night. He could touch the turbine housing after a run with his bare fingers...he said if you tried that previously you would leave your fingerprints behind. I baulk at getting pistons and or chambers done as im a little 'gun shy' when it comes to ceramic inside the engine.

Wow! really!? Thats a huge difference! Who usually does the Ceramic coatings for you? There are so many companies that do it. One of the most well known ones is HPC hi performance coatings. I went with a company called Competition coatings. I have heard the HPC stuff is really good, and doesnt scratch or come off as easily like the CC stuff. However, HPC is VERY VERY expensive. To do the hks manifolds alone was in the region of 700 dollars! Which is quite a bit more than what CC charges! Can you tell me if one ceramic coating is better than the other?

http://www.competitioncoatings.com.au/ versus http://www.hpcoatings.com.au/

Because of this thread i had a dream dazmo was helping me put my engine together last night, gay i know!

Hahaha, I can always pass you his number if you would like to ask him any questions "personally"........ Seriously though, if you wanted him to screw.............. er......... put something........ er.........assemble something for you, im sure he'd be happy to help! Right DAZ? :down:

Edited by AtomicBomberMan
Because of this thread i had a dream dazmo was helping me put my engine together last night, gay i know!

Daz is a nice fella...not too bad on the eye either.

ABM i use Hi Octane for my ceramic stuff...they sponsor my racecar so the price is right.

Holding the heat in the manifold/gas path increases gas velocity and provides a harder 'hit' on the turbine. Not only will it make more power but increased velocity will spoll up the turbine quicker. More power and faster spool up is something we all want...even us knuckle dragging sraight line racers. I use the ceramic 'hi-temp' black on the hot side all the way to the end of the 'b' pipe. An example of how well it works was demonstrated by Bu5ter at the strip one night. He could touch the turbine housing after a run with his bare fingers...he said if you tried that previously you would leave your fingerprints behind. I baulk at getting pistons and or chambers done as im a little 'gun shy' when it comes to ceramic inside the engine.

i guess that depends on the car and application. i have the same hi temp black coating on the manifolds of my turbo commodore and the difference in temp was minimal. the manifolds were still hot enough to scald from just a short drive. after a very hot summer day stuck in stop start traffic that resulted in a damaged wire, i wrapped the manifolds in exhaust heat wrap. now i can touch the manifolds for a good 20secs before it burns me and the under bonnet temps are much much lower. for the record the dump pipes were done in the silver coating and it didnt work either. so for me its heat wrap FTW.

Daz is a nice fella...not too bad on the eye either.

er......yes...... he is nice.....:(

i guess that depends on the car and application. i have the same hi temp black coating on the manifolds of my turbo commodore and the difference in temp was minimal. the manifolds were still hot enough to scald from just a short drive. after a very hot summer day stuck in stop start traffic that resulted in a damaged wire, i wrapped the manifolds in exhaust heat wrap. now i can touch the manifolds for a good 20secs before it burns me and the under bonnet temps are much much lower. for the record the dump pipes were done in the silver coating and it didnt work either. so for me its heat wrap FTW.

i can understand how themal wrap would work and would be able to retain heat. With ceramic coating, i dont really understand, because isnt the coating also highly aluminum based? and therefore wouldnt that conduct heat? I have also been told that it is quite possible that thermal wrapping causes stainless steel to become very brittle. is ths true?

i can understand how themal wrap would work and would be able to retain heat. With ceramic coating, i dont really understand, because isnt the coating also highly aluminum based? and therefore wouldnt that conduct heat? I have also been told that it is quite possible that thermal wrapping causes stainless steel to become very brittle. is ths true?

i dont know anything about the science of ceramic coating, just in my experience it doesnt keep heat in. ive also heard that stainless steel cracks when u heat wrap it. but the again ive seen stainless manifolds crack without it. ive got steampipe manifolds on the commo, it just seemed like a better choice. but i dont know anything about metalurgy.

I've used a few places for the black coating, in SA and QLD.

All of them looked nice and shiny when new but all flaked off with circuit work.

The hottest part, turbo hotside, flaked first then follow by the dump pipe.

This is with a fairly rich tune for the circuit stuff though.

I had a chance to compare a freshly coated manifold and wrapped dump pipe on my honda s2000 when it was on the dyno. There was a huge temperature difference between them. I am back to wrapping now.

Yes thermal wrapping will make steel stronger and more brittle than without the wrap. This is a result of the heat cycling effect on the metal alloy.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Wicked thread. Love builds.

Just one question ( I was only skimming most posts )

How the hell did three pages of ViPEC vs MOTEC happen?

Sh*thouse i reckon. if i wanted to waste my dodgy pre paid broadband on that i would... however i would rather look at pictures of an engine build... funnily enough that is what i thought i was trying to look at.

if everyone can neck up and let the man post his photos.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

hi all, sorry for the lack of updates. There is a lot happening at the moment plus i am away on business. I have recently collected A CRAPLOAD of parts, and have slightly changed direction as to how i want the finished car to perform. Thanks to DAZMO and his persuasive advice ie "his way or the highway" approach, this is what has brought about all the changes. As much as i hate to admit it, he is probably right when deciding whats best for me. :P I promise i will have updates soon and lots of pics. Thank you all for your patience.

Fastrotor, nissan parts didnt feel so bad as i purchased them in spurts. if i bought them all at once it would hurt for sure. Fastrotor, if you ever need any parts from nissan, send me a pm, and i would gladly help out. I am on really good terms with the guys at nissan and they give me really good prices for genuine parts. Much much cheaper than retail. Parts that come from japan only take 5 days or so.

Edited by AtomicBomberMan
Fastrotor, nissan parts didnt feel so bad as i purchased them in spurts. if i bought them all at once it would hurt for sure. Fastrotor, if you ever need any parts from nissan, send me a pm, and i would gladly help out. I am on really good terms with the guys at nissan and they give me really good prices for genuine parts. Much much cheaper than retail. Parts that come from japan only take 5 days or so.

Nice work so far Bomber Man, Did you make a list of genuine nissan parts required for the build at all?

Which nissan dealer did you use?

Thanks for any info.

Nice work so far Bomber Man, Did you make a list of genuine nissan parts required for the build at all?

Which nissan dealer did you use?

Thanks for any info.

Thanks gtr81. The parts required for an rb26 build would vary from build to build. The parts required would also depend greatly on how particular you were with recycling parts from the old engine. The old hoses and clamps would have been fine to reuse, however, because everything else was new, and most of the hoses were over 15years old, i decided a refresh would be nice. The other parts ie block short parts eg fittings etc, you generally should not need to buy as you would already have these fittings from the stock engine. i bought everything new because i started with a brand new block and i didnt want to rape my stock engine. I wanted to leave the old engine completely intact. Whenever i need genuine parts, i go to the NISSAN FAST dvd and list the parts i want and fax them to the dealer. If you require anything shoot me a pm, id be happy to help.

Wicked thread. Love builds.

Just one question ( I was only skimming most posts )

How the hell did three pages of ViPEC vs MOTEC happen?

Sh*thouse i reckon. if i wanted to waste my dodgy pre paid broadband on that i would... however i would rather look at pictures of an engine build... funnily enough that is what i thought i was trying to look at.

if everyone can neck up and let the man post his photos.

Haha, thanks Evan. I will definitely put some more pictures up for you. Good to hear that you are enjoying the thread.

Now, where were we?

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