Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i have recently started modding my 32 gtst.

3inch zorst, fmic, Apexi PFC, 040 fuel pump, z23 afm. this is just the beginning stages of my work.

now with the slight mods and cooler weather i have noticed my car is going soo much better but now i cant seem to strech 1st gear out at all without it wheel spinning. as soon as i get to about 4,000 rpm the tail end goes sideways.

My rear tyres also have a wider track i beleive they are 235's.... i also think my suspension may be shot, when i accellerate with a bit of speed comming out of a corner the rear end starts to tramp.

... i would like to get these problems fixed as for i am not able to fully enjoy my driving. i just dont really know where to start.

appreciate your help guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274237-no-traction-in-1st-gear/
Share on other sites

"Doctor, it hurts when I do ...... THIS"

Then don't do "THIS". Take a bit of lead out of that right boot. You don't have to wring the neck out of every gear.

And maybe get some new shocks to control the axle tramp.

seriously guys ... if your trying to tell me you never give your car a little squirt ever now n then, then your either full of it or you bought a sports car for no reason?

my plans are to take my car down the 1/4 one day. you telling me i should drive like my grandma instead of trying to fix my traction issues.

Ditto, if i let the clutch out at idle and floor it through first most times i dont break traction in 1st. SOme road surfaces it will get a wigglw but generally its all traction with 260rwkws from an RB20. Decent suspension, quality tyres and a good alignment and be gentle with the clutch

they are not trying to say dont give it a squirt, they are just saying exercise a bit of throttle control, ease it on in fist, ive got a pretty much standard r34gtt with a bit of boost wound into it atm and it spins the wheels in first if i flatten it, not dump the clutch. Do you think when driving a race car they use 100% throttle in the lower gears, if a cars making decent power rwd it'll light them up

Hey guys, i have recently started modding my 32 gtst.

3inch zorst, fmic, Apexi PFC, 040 fuel pump, z23 afm. this is just the beginning stages of my work.

now with the slight mods and cooler weather i have noticed my car is going soo much better but now i cant seem to strech 1st gear out at all without it wheel spinning. as soon as i get to about 4,000 rpm the tail end goes sideways.

My rear tyres also have a wider track i beleive they are 235's.... i also think my suspension may be shot, when i accellerate with a bit of speed comming out of a corner the rear end starts to tramp.

... i would like to get these problems fixed as for i am not able to fully enjoy my driving. i just dont really know where to start.

appreciate your help guys

Yet another story of going for the power upgrade before thinking about how you are going to be able to use it. The answer is in simple steps;

Decent tyres

Check the weight of the wheels, heavy wheels make it difficult for the suspension to control the excess weight

Decent shock absorbers, stay away from the junk "coil overs".

Proper alignment, done by a suspension specialist, not the local tyre shop, using aftermarket parts because there isn't enough adjustment standard

Cheers

Gary

Ash, Troy, What Suspension/Diff/Tyres are you running?

I have Tein mono-flex 8/6, adjustable rear camber arms, whiteline subframe kit, cusco 2way, and ramping up on boost in second = no traction, its stable, but no traction, tyres are 50% advan something or other.... guessing the tyres leave alot to be desired, but should this setup with 180rwkw on low boost, 33GTR wheels(so not massive sidewalls) be fine for roll on traction once i get some decent rubber under there? The current setup is fun, but i can only think of it being slow haha

I know I am using coilovers but they came on the car, aren't very old, and are atleast mono-tube!

-Ryan

Edited by RB_Ryan

I had shitty Nexens and a rooted traction rod and even when the Toyo T1Rs I replaced the Nexens with it still had traction issues. All good now that the Toyos have worn in and the suspension has been fixed - this forum lead me to believe it might have been the clutches in the centre diff at one stage, potentially it might be getting a touch tired as the car has 100k kms on it and is old, but there is no issue now at all. :rofl2:

Ash, Troy, What Suspension/Diff/Tyres are you running?

I have Tein mono-flex 8/6, adjustable rear camber arms, whiteline subframe kit, cusco 2way, and ramping up on boost in second = no traction, its stable, but no traction, tyres are 50% advan something or other.... guessing the tyres leave alot to be desired, but should this setup with 180rwkw on low boost, 33GTR wheels(so not massive sidewalls) be fine for roll on traction once i get some decent rubber under there? The current setup is fun, but i can only think of it being slow haha

I know I am using coilovers but they came on the car, aren't very old, and are atleast mono-tube!

-Ryan

How have you aligned your rear sub frame? I have minse setup for traction, other then that we are pretty similar. I have a KAAZ 1.5 diff, similar Ten shocks with slightly softer springs. But i run either RE55s or of late i was running the Bridgestones that came std on STIs and they were damn good street tyres.

But i suspect its the subframe angle that is the main difference.

How have you aligned your rear sub frame? I have minse setup for traction, other then that we are pretty similar. I have a KAAZ 1.5 diff, similar Ten shocks with slightly softer springs. But i run either RE55s or of late i was running the Bridgestones that came std on STIs and they were damn good street tyres.

But i suspect its the subframe angle that is the main difference.

I will get that looked at... first thing i am doing when the stagea goes(or tax return comes) is tyres... BTW, Have you driven a 32 without power steering? its like a big datto :rofl2:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...