Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've already put a wanted to buy up for rear brembo's, i think the plan will be put them on with the entire rear cradle along with front ones and try and find wheels after the fact, because the 32gtr 16inch one will be useless.

The 450 would be lighter then the previous motor yeah? It's an alloy block right?

Either way, the GTR is a more nose heavy car then a 180 or GTS-t ever will be. It's got the extra diff, transfer case and assorted bits up front...

it's actually about 20kg heavier than the CA18DET that was in it.

but a standard 180 is pretty limited on Tyre width up front because of the the narrow guards and factory offset. I'm pretty much limited to 8 inch wide unless i pump the front fenders.

which is why S13's have so many widebody front fenders available for them. I can fit 10inch wide rims on the back the moment after extensively rolling the rear guards with a 2 inch metal pole.

It's true test will come at the texi. we'll see if it turns then.....all else fails, clutch kick!

it's actually about 20kg heavier than the CA18DET that was in it.

but a standard 180 is pretty limited on Tyre width up front because of the the narrow guards and factory offset. I'm pretty much limited to 8 inch wide unless i pump the front fenders.

which is why S13's have so many widebody front fenders available for them. I can fit 10inch wide rims on the back the moment after extensively rolling the rear guards with a 2 inch metal pole.

It's true test will come at the texi. we'll see if it turns then.....all else fails, clutch kick!

It's still going to have a better weight bias then a GTR though...

Tyre limitations is another thing though, but I'd definitely be putting rear brembos on, other wise you're WAYYYY over braking the front compared to the rear.

It's still going to have a better weight bias then a GTR though...

Tyre limitations is another thing though, but I'd definitely be putting rear brembos on, other wise you're WAYYYY over braking the front compared to the rear.

gotta find rear brembo's first. problem is that i hate the fibreglass wide guards everyone has out for 180sx's, I used to have a set on it and I hated them. I'll get a second pair of fenders and weld in another inch of metal at the inside edge, that way I'll still have stock looking guards.

clutch is buggered, sticks on the floor and is either on or off pedal feels like it binding. pretty much impossible to drive. hope the actually clutch face and pressure plate are fine other wise I've paid $2500 for a clutch that only lasted two months. VERY PISSED OFF!:angry:

still have find out what caused it, hopefully the custom bell housing was aligned properly.

  • 2 weeks later...

Bellhousing isn't aligned I'm guessing. Probably needs a lazer alignment down the center.

Not my fault!! :ninja: Good job in removing the box yourself too!!! I didn't have to do it for a change!! :laugh:

it's laser, s not z as in Light Amplified Stimulated Emission of Radiation. but yeah my guess is needs alignment, and hopefully the clutch is still OK

looks like the gearbox is out of alignment, the fingers on the pressure plate have an ellipse shaped wear mark. the bearing is the same and the snout has wear markings on the top of it that has resulted in a slight lip which explains the change in clutch feel lately as the lip got worse so did the clutch. this tells me that the gearbox is positioned slightly too high compared to the engine. MRC are going to swap my bell housing and adapter plate for new ones that have been made at a different engineering firm. the clutch itself looks alright. not as bad as I originally thought.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...