Jump to content
SAU Community

180sx Vh45


Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Dude get this on the ground already so we can go cruising like in the old days and hold up traffic for ages hahaha

it's been on the road.......for a month and a half before clutch problems. I'm up for another bogan cruise if you are. bring on the mullets wigs!

If you're thinking of selling them...

i don't need'em, wouldn't you have a set on the r33 already anyway. aren't r33 gts-t's pretty much the same as non v-spec r32 gtrs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's been on the road.......for a month and a half before clutch problems. I'm up for another bogan cruise if you are. bring on the mullets wigs!

i don't need'em, wouldn't you have a set on the r33 already anyway. aren't r33 gts-t's pretty much the same as non v-spec r32 gtrs?

Oh hmm... I should look into that factor...

I was shown the other day some nice 8 pots that a member uses on here for racing with... able to purchase the full kit for $1,500 brand new...

I'm keeping my eyes on it, and might buy it very shortly...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So cool. Its a shame we cant have these like the yanks do... TT VH45DE :worship:

they are, when i was doing the research in to it for 450sx i found that the maximum boost-able engine size is just over 4.5 ltrs for a s13. i believe it's 60 cc within the range. these figures were calculated using the weight of 1140kg stated as the factory weight times the factor of 4.82 for na and 4.0 for boosted. from the following link. the ADR limits are slightly different.

so the maximum turbo or supercharged engine in a 180sx can be 4560cc and 5494cc for naturally aspirated.

so imagine the engine that will able to go in a 1500kg skyline.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi_06_-_guidelines_for_light_vehicle_modifications_nov_2007.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

they are, when i was doing the research in to it for 450sx i found that the maximum boost-able engine size is just over 4.5 ltrs for a s13. i believe it's 60 cc within the range. these figures were calculated using the weight of 1140kg stated as the factory weight times the factor of 4.82 for na and 4.0 for boosted. from the following link. the ADR limits are slightly different.

so the maximum turbo or supercharged engine in a 180sx can be 4560cc and 5494cc for naturally aspirated.

so imagine the engine that will able to go in a 1500kg skyline.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi_06_-_guidelines_for_light_vehicle_modifications_nov_2007.pdf

I think you'll find you're using the wrong value aren't you? Aren't you meant to be using the bottom one? 5.46 and 4.68 for N/A and Turbo respectively? Isn't mono constructed like those one off builds/kit cars?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i don't need'em, wouldn't you have a set on the r33 already anyway. aren't r33 gts-t's pretty much the same as non v-spec r32 gtrs?

they are basically identical imo, 300mm vs 298mm rotors and the same calipers or something like that, nothing in it.

Edited by Rolls
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you'll find you're using the wrong value aren't you? Aren't you meant to be using the bottom one? 5.46 and 4.68 for N/A and Turbo respectively? Isn't mono constructed like those one off builds/kit cars?

mono constructed is the modern way to make car chassis, it's dual constructed if its body can detach from the rails, like model t ford. unless your making a hot rod? at least i think that's what they mean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hey dude quick question, what spigot bush did u use for the 300zx box conversion? did the new one need any machining to fit in the 45 crank? also wherew did u get those UAS engine mounts? nice car man 190kw with headers mad shit

Edited by akaaa7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Cam,

Standard RB26/VG30 spigot bush. No machining required, just have to knock out the automatic steel bush out of the crank.

Mounts were from UAS...Unique Autosports.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Cam,

Standard RB26/VG30 spigot bush. No machining required, just have to knock out the automatic steel bush out of the crank.

Mounts were from UAS...Unique Autosports.

You make it sound so easy lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You make it sound so easy lol.

Wish it was so easy! I knocked it out with a cold chisel from memory, you could also mig weld a metal bar to it and lever it off...

I like welding stuff! :thumbsup:

Get that damn car on the road Farch!!

And, nismo used to sell side skirts for your 180! they look good as I saw on today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the spigot bush has a hole drilled the whole way through it, you can try the old trick of filling the bush with heavy duty grease, and then hammer a steal bar that is machined to fit perfectly into it. The grease makes a perfect seal, and it can't be compressed, so it pushes the bush out.

That's if the bush is hollow the whole way through. If not... Too bad, so sad. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

slide hammer, dynabolt, welded chain, grease compression, chisel and hammer were all the methods I was told. Slide hammer works great if it fits, if not the chisel and hammer + 30 minutes of bashing seems to also work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't know if it's been mentioned, but torn up paper poked into the hole (newspaper works great), then punched (same principle as grease method) in with a hammer & punch works very well. Then you just flick out a mashed up wad of compressed paper fiber.

Clearances need to be very close for grease method to work, otherwise it just pumps out around the punch; much less important with torn up paper.

Amazing build BTW; love the execution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

about 7 months ago i hit up ross tuffbond to make a custom balancer and was told it would take 6 weeks, the six week came i rang up and was told haven't had time. I gave up, and completely forgot about it, thinking it was never going to happen. well i got a call last week and this was apparently just finished!

post-38774-0-49979500-1310713393_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Well we got the gearbox back together finally.

And the new intake setup is sorted too. We found that the BMC filter setup was too restrictive for the engine, so that got the boot and a replacement was found.

That involved going to autobahn and ordering the biggest k&n filter we could get our hands on with a 90mm outlet.

Then massaging (hammer :whistling::) ) the engine bay to fit the mammoth filter, which also required the 90mm airflow meter to be chopped.

All fitted sweet in the end and the car now goes even better. Farch will explain his test drive later....

The 20cent coin in the second pic gives you an idea how big this thing is!!

post-12712-0-19192500-1312109292_thumb.jpgpost-12712-0-64981700-1312109301_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To add to that very useful summary, even in the race/rally r32 gtr I have good quality, new(ish) poly bushes everywhere because that is what rules require, and the handling is excellent. Of course, the car doesn't do many klm but I'd still expect poly bushes to last better in road use than sphericals (especially as I have a couple of klm of dirt road to stuff sphericals up) I would change the front upper arms to spherical if I was allowed to, because the poly bushes flog out often, but otherwise new bushes (and ball joints) and a good alignment can make a world of difference
    • Any chance you can get a Nistune board installed instead and set the speed limit to whatever your tires can handle?
    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
×
×
  • Create New...