Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looks the goods, only how the hell do you get into it? LOL, i would struggle to get in and out of that jungle gym :down:

practice. i think the best way is to sit on the intrusion bar with your feet in the car, then slide in. I will be putting a removable wheel in though.

the cage work looks great, i like the boxed front legs as well. I remember reading something about the intrusion bars had to be minimum 100mm up from the base plates on the front legs and hoop, is this true? or is it from the floor? or did i read wrong?

They must meet no further than 100mm away from the base of the leg/hoop.

And all intersecting bars must meet within 100mm of each other.

YT's old R34 we ran in 07/08 was like that cage, bloody hard work getting in/out! lol

Nothin better than pinching a nerve in your neck when getting in 3 minutes prior to a stage! lol, good strong cages but :D

Did that have the horizontal bar? I just cant seem to recall it cos there was so much room to swing your helmet back there?

Timmy, no, it didn't have a full diagonal, but rather two smaller diagonals behind each seat. They were welded about 50cm from the top and upper sides in the centre hoop.

I found a pic that kinda shows the bars....... and our intensity! lol. Just zoom in on it a bit.;

8TT9274-1.jpg

Deano, we run a PFC in ours, scrounged 2nd hand, but would love a Motec!

Edited by Marlin

I'm trying to find a PFC Pro to run in mine, will be a modified GTR one though.

YT said my cage is very similar to his R34's. Cams have now banned those small braces on the main hoop...they will let you run a empty main hoop though

Interested in what computers people going to be running with their RB20? I'm looking into running the stock one with nistune on it for my motor.

Most rb20 guys if they know it can be done will put in a RB26dett power FC. you cant go past one for ease and cost. untill you get into the top end nothing comes close.

they display knock - not many others will.

the hand controller is fing porn and handy.

if you run the rb26 one over the AP engineering item you can run the air intake temp sensor that will detune the car as it heats up allowing to tune the car more aggressively to temperature.

i could go on but im out of time.

oh and Not on the cage. i think ben got it made with a small opening so i cant fit in it as im getting fatter and fatter. lol

Timmy, no, it didn't have a full diagonal, but rather two smaller diagonals behind each seat. They were welded about 50cm from the top and upper sides in the centre hoop.

I found a pic that kinda shows the bars....... and our intensity! lol. Just zoom in on it a bit.;

8TT9274-1.jpg

Deano, we run a PFC in ours, scrounged 2nd hand, but would love a Motec!

Oh yes i do remember now, the Stilo amp was mounted on it, shame that design has been banned

if you run the rb26 one over the AP engineering item you can run the air intake temp sensor that will detune the car as it heats up allowing to tune the car more aggressively to temperature.

Damo, it's a 20 mate, just set everything the max and she'll be all good :P lol

haha, thats right they dont have enough power to knock.

jokes jokes

Nah damo they can knock all night! 5 days straight and then have a bender b4 finishing up!!! (hopefully benny will understand that one!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...