Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

regardless of gauges or no gauges we have simply offered up some free info that has taken time and money to get. we used 2 different examples ect ect. take from it what you like. we will take that its simply better not to have to change engines the night before or during events (which is when we have had to do the last 2) and if your half capible a simple mod to the sump will stop that.

ironicly - My old drift team mate spun a bearing the first time he drifted after fitting an oil cooler. i blame the cooler 100%

regardless of gauges or no gauges we have simply offered up some free info that has taken time and money to get. we used 2 different examples ect ect. take from it what you like. we will take that its simply better not to have to change engines the night before or during events (which is when we have had to do the last 2) and if your half capible a simple mod to the sump will stop that.

ironicly - My old drift team mate spun a bearing the first time he drifted after fitting an oil cooler. i blame the cooler 100%

You saying the cooler reduced the oil pressure to much?....

Woo aren't you installing one... Better touch wood!

The workshop putting together an external oil pump kit for me strongly advised against using an external filter block due to the poor design. Can't say I paid it much thought at the time given the number of folks running them but these guys do build a lot of race/drift motors.

The workshop putting together an external oil pump kit for me strongly advised against using an external filter block due to the poor design. Can't say I paid it much thought at the time given the number of folks running them but these guys do build a lot of race/drift motors.

Hypercry?

By external filter block you mean the block adapter or remote oil filter kit?

Also keen to know thoughts on the oil cooler causing failure!

I've got one coming with a built in thermostat

I think the comment was made with sarcasm... The same way the rest of us were taking the piss and blaming the gauges for wrecking motors...

  • 2 weeks later...

I've been a bit slack cause it's been too cold. But the replacment engine is pulled down to install the restrictor, and mod the sump.

P5290015.jpg

We had a high pitched squeel all event. We knew it was a boost leak, but considering everthing else we couldn't be bothered. After I pulled the car appart, I found the source of the leak. I had put a incorectly sized bolt clamp on, and it didn't seal evenly.

P5290016.jpg

still considering it, i'd like to have a good look at one of them. But Damo and I have worked out how to VVT a normal RB20 head, just would come down to funds, and if this new engine needs it.

Did you consider a secret handshake V-Cam RB20 :) or are there elegibility problems with running a later model head, series of engine?

i had a bit of a think tank and dragged a coupple of old heads and bits up from storage and worked out that if the gains were there to be had it was easy enough to make vvt work on a rb20 head. without modding the head. i took a bit of insperation from the HKS V-Cam and sussed it all out. i supose people just dont see the point developing rb20 engines but for us having to fit within engine size rules we have/ want to think outside the square.

i think the whole project is just bringing good ideas from everywhere and putting them on one car.

the super f1 spec engine is has actualy suprised us both in its designe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Absolutely could be. I collected data logs from when the O2 sensor was still out and also after I had replaced it so will try to compare them. Pretty confident that the affect is lowered with the new sensor, will check logs at the same RPMs/conditions. 
    • Hey guys Long time lurker, I daily a nm35 stagea 250t rs four and I've had it for almost 2 years (very reliable 👌). Issues or just looking for information ill always find myself here having a read, so thought id join.  3inch stainless intake, pod filter, AM performance turbo dump pipe, 3inch hotdog, 3 and half inch stainless to 3 and half inch AM performance blast pipes. Bc racing coilovers. 18inch rims Hdi intercooler and trans cooler soon.  Here's my car
    • thanks for the advice on the box... i was thinking the 6 speed was better for cruising on the highway but on closer inspection and comparison the Rb 5 speed box was not too different...  So the choice is going to be the RB25 box... if I can save up and find one at the right price  
    • Thanks Matt, yes that's what i am aiming for. Just going to apply the right voltage and grounds to the dash connector. Hence my search for these pins... any chance you know if these pins are in the same spot as the ones on the S15 Dash connector? as mentioned above on page 8?
    • Yes, unfortunately that's the one. Signal was noisy to begin with; after driving once and looking back at the logs I saw pressure constantly swinging between 0-200psi, or staying at 0 randomly for a few seconds. There's a lot of good sensors that share the same look and feel, so don't presume they're all bad. I bought mine for 20$ off Amazon and I should have read the reviews prior, as it's clear they're junk.  I purchased a lowdollerr motorsports sensor. 
×
×
  • Create New...