Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmm... this is interesting. I'm having the same problem mate, although it could be the size of my rear housing, i guess it could also be my cooler (more things to check out)

here's my boost curve...

e85_2.jpg

don't think we've checked the pressure differential...

plus something is howling like a mo fo, maybe somethings up with the cooler...

EDIT: i'm using the Just Jap Stealth version cooler. So i guess we have the same cores but different piping.

Your core is actually smaller, it isnt as high so there is room for the return piping to run underneath it.

What turbo are you using and how big is your rear housing?

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hmmm... this is interesting. I'm having the same problem mate, although it could be the size of my rear housing, i guess it could also be my cooler (more things to check out)

here's my boost curve...

e85_2.jpg

don't think we've checked the pressure differential...

plus something is howling like a mo fo, maybe somethings up with the cooler...

EDIT: i'm using the Just Jap Stealth version cooler. So i guess we have the same cores but different piping.

yeh thats extremely similar to what is happening to mine...

thanks adz34....i will change this intercooler 1st and go from there...im also changing all my hose clamps (ive checked my hose joints there all good)to the t-bolt clamps.

yeh..it has shown quit a restriction...i guess the only way to fix things is to go over them again.

either way i will let you all know how it turns out.

if any1 has any idea's it would be much appreciated to have your input.

that's happening to me as well!

I've been told that the turbo itself is too small and running out of puff, i.e. it's fallen out of it's efficiency band to produce boost.

At lower boost settings, you will see less of a boost drop.

Guilt-Toy's solution to this "Buy a bigger turbo" lol...

I'm using a HKS 2535 btw.

Bass's 2835pro S shouldn't be dropping so much. Just check out joeyjoe's car.. same turbo and can hold boost fine. The rear housing on those turbo's are big enough to flat line. It's gotta be something else.

My rear housing on the other hand (OP6 in a highflow) is questionable if it can hold that sort of boost flat line. But it's just interesting we're both using Just Jap coolers (well, very similar), pushing the same sort of #'s, and have similar boost outcomes.

I'm going back to the tuner on Monday and i guess will just do a process of elimination. The car is tuned, so we don't need to worry about that. It'll just be testing pressures i guess (like you did Bass), boost leak test perhaps, and maybe even change BOV to a GTR one.

You've got a GTR BOV yeah?

when you say old cooler which one do you mean the hdi or the one you had previously.

also have you got luis' from drift garage's number???

so will these hdi cores take up to 330rwkw??

still flipping that this china just jap cooler hit a brick wall...grrrr

Sorry, have the old one, the JustJap one. This proved reliable enough as it is the model with the larger end tanks. Have to lose your driving lights though as is a little wide. Or you could trim them like I did.

Luis mobile no. is 0404081116. You can find him in Ingleburn. He is a top bloke and excellent fabricator. The core I have is Hybrid. They would be good for a considerable amount of power.

To be honest, I would look at exhaust size or dump, muffler, tune, boost controller or catalytic converter. May still be your cooler but check other things.

Sadly that's wrong.

There are decent cores, and there are crap cores. Not all the China stuff is bad. Its the SUPER CHEAP stuff you need to be wary of, all stuff that is cheap - is not good, never is.

A certain workshop i know of uses China made cores for 400rwkw XR6t's - they are nowhere near the size of the 'jap spec' coolers yet they perform better - go figure huh?

Absolutely. I buy parts like I buy my clothes, look at the stitching and quality of material and NOT the brand.

And I just noticed he dropped the exhaust so that's not it. I would count the tubes and look inside to see how close the tubes are. If it's a bar and plate there is usually a 1cm gap between tubes, this is going to cause a little turbulence inside the cooler and a lack of tubes obviously will also restrict flow. Down side is you won't know what your looking at till you see a few different coolers.

A tube and fin will have the tubes closer together and should be able to fit more tubes in the same size cooler. JustJap normally do bar and plate.

That's normal. The 2535 is really a small compressor in the grand scheme of things. The 3076 or HKS 3037 is where you start to see boost holding all the way to redline. My 3071 drops in the top end also as the comp gets a little asthmatic.

you would think that if there was a restriction due to the cooler being crappy you would think the restriction should be there all the time and it should just slowly increase. it shouldn't just flick on like a light.

may also be worth checking the core for any cracks, etc. to do that the best way is to cap the ends and have a tyre valve in 1 end and use a pump to presurise it and stick it in the bath or a drum of water.

as for boost dropping off at higher rpm, i have changed boost controllers and found differences. i had a turbotech controller (the cheap one with the really big thread about it) and then i put a turbosmart dual stage on and at 14psi it was dropping about 3psi at high rpm. but the other one back on and i would drop about 1psi at high rpm (which was more the stock turbo running out of puff).

Bass's 2835pro S shouldn't be dropping so much. Just check out joeyjoe's car.. same turbo and can hold boost fine. The rear housing on those turbo's are big enough to flat line. It's gotta be something else.

My rear housing on the other hand (OP6 in a highflow) is questionable if it can hold that sort of boost flat line. But it's just interesting we're both using Just Jap coolers (well, very similar), pushing the same sort of #'s, and have similar boost outcomes.

I'm going back to the tuner on Monday and i guess will just do a process of elimination. The car is tuned, so we don't need to worry about that. It'll just be testing pressures i guess (like you did Bass), boost leak test perhaps, and maybe even change BOV to a GTR one.

You've got a GTR BOV yeah?

yeh ive the gtr bov, have tried blocking it off also (jsut incase it was leaking) but to avail nothing different occured. your right about the 2835 being able to go further...ive dropped the exhaust and it made no difference at all and btw im running a 100cpsi metallic 3" cat and a hks dump, fujitusbo 3 inch down pipe and trust ti 3.5inch exhaust so im sure it isnt there...the thing with a leak would be that boost would keep being made but...it wont be making power.

Now with the pressure drop from one side of the intercooler 25psi to a 17psi drop on the other side...i dont see how it could be the turbo (especially after its been proven time and time again that the 2835 is capable of it.

i will be replacing all my clamps to t bolt clamps and looking to buy a plazmaman intercooler which hopefully fixes the issue.

i appreciate all the help from all of you.

as soon as the issue is found and it is sorted i will let every1 know.

and mad082 ive got a hks evc 4 and i dont think its the boost controller due to the fact that there is 25 psi pre intercooler and only 17psi at throttle body.

is that right???

btw...this turbo comes on like a light switch...18psi boost at 3600rpm and 250rwkw by 5000rpm...the tuner was impressed.

Edited by allthewaytotheskyline

8psi is too much drop. When I was testing mine I only had 2psi drop at 26psi. and its just a cheap China cooler. Might want to check for leaks. Hoo and HKS2530's turbine housing is too small, Its not going to be able to hold high boost. Thats why its only rated at 380HP.

id just get a trust cooler

ive made the same mistake as u have and got a china cooler and now i want to upgrade the turbo and gor for 340kw at the rear wheels and im gonna have to change my cooler as well.

such a waste of cash

8psi is too much drop. When I was testing mine I only had 2psi drop at 26psi. and its just a cheap China cooler. Might want to check for leaks. Hoo and HKS2530's turbine housing is too small, Its not going to be able to hold high boost. Thats why its only rated at 380HP.

HKS 2530's regularly hold 20psi on a RB20 without an issue, i know friends RB25's that hold 18psi without issue.

In twin setup (on GTR's) plenty of people have run over 24psi on them.

Go figure i guess, real world examples and proof - gotta love it

should just save up a bit more for trust 1 i got 1 and stuff all pressure drop cost bit more but the old saying goes here to "mesure twice cut 1ce" i wont need to change intercoolers for my build target now :D

HKS 2530's regularly hold 20psi on a RB20 without an issue, i know friends RB25's that hold 18psi without issue.

In twin setup (on GTR's) plenty of people have run over 24psi on them.

Go figure i guess, real world examples and proof - gotta love it

:D Learn the definition of "high boost."

should just save up a bit more for trust 1 i got 1 and stuff all pressure drop cost bit more but the old saying goes here to "mesure twice cut 1ce" i wont need to change intercoolers for my build target now :blink:

Try HKS coolers. Been told those cores flows lots better as the inner division is in " > " sort of shape instead of " | "

Edited by kwickr33
8psi is too much drop. When I was testing mine I only had 2psi drop at 26psi. and its just a cheap China cooler. Might want to check for leaks. Hoo and HKS2530's turbine housing is too small, Its not going to be able to hold high boost. Thats why its only rated at 380HP.

checked for leaks today..plumbed(with pump) it up and pumped up to 25 psi and it held steady...no leaks...that i could hear or see, bumped it up too 30 psi...and the piece i plumbed it with popped out.

so im guessing leaking wasnt an issue.

any other idea's before i splurge on a intercooler??

regards, Bass

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...