Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I should have gone E-Manage and don't listen to sales bullshit again!!!

All else fails I will sell the Haltech or burn it.

Well the Haltech option is "off" my list of things to do. .

  • Replies 74
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Fcon fz ftw!

but it appears they also use the ksrom like what Scott wants to do.. (i always wondered why they used two computers to run the car properly.)

thanks for clearing that up

What conclusions have you come to Craig?

I have issues with my ecu also as the throttle lag is bloody dangerous. Im hoping to find a spare ecu in japan and ship it to KSrom for a chip. From what ive read they have fixed the lag and im guessing the airflow r&r issue. As they are so cheap, they are possibly the best option if you already have a copgyback,(cant write p*ig? totalitarian website developers!) at least untill someone here cracks the ecu.

There are quite a few companies in Japan that do remaps/custom maps.

Yes KS seem to be the cheapest, but there is also Nismo, TEPS and "G-Zone" that spring to mind immediately although I cannot recall the others at this moment.

They ALL get rid of the 25% throttle <2800rpm among other things.

I should have gone E-Manage and don't listen to sales bullshit again!!!

1. Checked with the dyno guy to see that he had clamped the voltage on the signal from the airflow meter. - Done

2. Checked this is even worth going ahead with by doing a long trip to see wether fuel consumption was better - Done

3. Have tried dropping the boost all the way back to 7PSI.....still has the same problem just with less power. - Done

4. Cleaned airflow meter, throttle body and fliter - Done

5. Need to find someone to make up a bigger airflow meter unit to reduce the voltage and see wether that work....will have to go back on the dyno though.

6. Go down to VIC one day and see wether Cihan can fix.

8. Suggestions ...... I will try anything

All else fails I will sell the Haltech or burn it.

Suggestion #1 - Get a decent tuner for the Haltech. I have heard that JEM and Autotech are pretty good. Do CRD tune Haltech's?

Suggestion #2 - If none of these guys can fix your tune... rip the f**kin' thing out and get either an eManage (road trip down here for tune) or Fcon V and get it tuned in Sydney.

If you decide to go with #2, I would look into the FCON first, although both Cihan (eTuner) and Trent (Status Tuning) are damn good tuners and probably worth the 8hr drive.

Edited by iamhe77

Any aftermarket ecu should be able to give you a good tune. The difference between them will be things like ease of use, fineness of adjustment (number of mapping points) computing power, useful life etc. A grunty top shelf ecu will be able to give a super tune - any ecu should be able to provide an adequate tune. If its giving you a crap tune then blame the tuner - in other words find another one. He should be able to make it run properly and tell you if anything is needed to make it run better - e.g. new afm, bigger injectors.

Any aftermarket ecu should be able to give you a good tune. The difference between them will be things like ease of use, fineness of adjustment (number of mapping points) computing power, useful life etc. A grunty top shelf ecu will be able to give a super tune - any ecu should be able to provide an adequate tune. If its giving you a crap tune then blame the tuner - in other words find another one. He should be able to make it run properly and tell you if anything is needed to make it run better - e.g. new afm, bigger injectors.

+1

hell, once mine is tuned next friday on the dyno (AEM F/IC-8 & S15 injectors) I'll be toying with the tune myself, laptop

will fit a lambda sensor + guage, and road tune to buggery

=)

You guys know this how? Ive had my car on the dyno for close to 6 hours and only got it partially tuned. The M35 ecu is a lot more complex than you think, and since it controls the throttle, it has ultimate control, even though the Emanage controls injectors and spark.

If its so easy, why hasnt it been done yet?

its because its a copgy-back and they are never as good as a full remap. i THINK with a ksrom,gzone blah blah + emanage or a decent copgy back will be the best IMO.

well, frankly, from ALL research, the AEM F/IC-8 is the best copgyback you can possibly buy, better than the emanage ultimate simply thru the sheer size of the tune scope.

ie 3 different overseeing controls, 22x17 pc mapping x 3, for air:fuel, ign.timing & injector duty.

get a remapped ecu and add in the F/IC-8 or a Emanage Ultimate (same price, emanage is widely known, but the f/ic seems pretty awesome - looks easy enough to self tune with the AEM Wideband kit)

and you'll be laughing !

currently with the remap S1 c34 + safc/sitc got 240rwkw, not a bad tune at all... but with the remap s1 c34 + f/ic-8 copgyback + s15 injectors I expect a much better result.

throw on a wideband kit, save the logs of your drive, and tune to your hearts content :(

Yerrp remap for sure! no need to have all this other copgy back business going on.

if my gtr's motor wasnt near completion i'd buy that m35 tomorrow at pickles. and go thru the process of doing it..

i think i'm about to get buttt raped ;)

Agreed... IF you live in Sydney... and IF you are not modding after the remap!

(unless back and forth interstate trips sound enjoyable)

I wouldnt mind if the price was right. I would still run the emanage for fuel adjustment and multiple maps. Of course I dont think they were looking at the throttle issue were they?

I wouldnt mind if the price was right. I would still run the emanage for fuel adjustment and multiple maps. Of course I dont think they were looking at the throttle issue were they?

Sounds like the best setup for we "Mexican's"

Don't think is was well known then... but I am sure SAS will be made aware of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...