Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys!

I've spoken to the guy thats gonna tune the car and he reckons I dont need anything else other than a standard pfc and boost controller to get that power. I had previously consulted another fellow N1 owner and he assure me even the injectors will be fine (around 95%-98% duty cycle) if 300kW is all that I'm after. And I should be running 14psi as low boost, 18psi as high and cut at 20psi.

Basically I want to retain the stock parts as much as possible with the maximum efficiency being achieved (dont want to devalue the car). Having said that, the only after market part I have currently is a trust full titanium exhaust system with compliance cat (might need to get a proper sized one?). I'm not sure what power it is currently having too (only had the car for 3months and spent 1 month fking around with the a/c). Any recommendation for cat if I need 1?

All I need is some confirmation as to whether or not 300kW is achievable at this level (when I say 300kW doesnt mean it'll have to 300, 290-300 will be fine too). Thanks!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282238-z32-afm-required-for-300kw/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Injectors and AFM's wont post a problem for 300rwkw.

Been done many times. Minor bump in the rail pressure might be required.

Yea thats what I was told as well. Might need to increase the pressure with a fuel regulator. Any recommendations for replacement cat? I saw justjap selling catco and xforce ones for pretty cheap prices but I dont know weather if they'll do the job. Have hear bad stuff about metal cats melting and ceramic is preferred. Cheers!

I think youll be pushing the injectors and more importantly have you got an aftermarket fuel pump in there?

That will help your case a little too.

No, you dont need Z32s for 300kw.

Thanks for the info, exactly what I need for the AFM question. I dont know if the N1 comes with a different capacity fuel pump or not but as stated, everything's stock. All I know is it came with an oil cooler which stand GTR doesnt have and the other pumps are N1 rated as well (not sure which are and arent).

Yes I will be pushing the injectors but it they're running 95%-98% duty I dont think I'll have much problem as I have no plans on further mods/power. And I dont thrash the car.

I have seen quite a few GTR's hit 300KW with good turbo's and exhaust, fuel pump and injector upgrade and power FC's... stock airboxes to. I think that's almost the minimum you need to do for 300rwkw.

May all just depend on the current condition of the parts u have in ur car now like ur AFM's and fuel pressure reg etc, they shouldn't need changing if they in good condition.

It has been done, just depends if your particular car will deal with it maybe.

Still a few grands worth of mods but maybe a few grand less than u thought without having to change cams and manifolds etc etc.. The rest should cope.

Good luck

Edited by FordyR31
Alright, it'll be known in probably another 1month or less when I get it tuned. I'll probably get those $180 catco cat to replace the compliance cat.

I'll be interested to see how you go. I have the same Catco cat and stock dumps (my biggest restriction). Also stock air box etc. Tune is coming in a couple of weeks for me.

Good luck mate.

Let me know how you go as well. The other factor to consider when getting highflow cat is how much loud is my exhaust gonna be and what sort of power increase would I expect. If its gonna make it louder and 5kW more... I rather not have it if you know what I mean.

Let me know how you go as well. The other factor to consider when getting highflow cat is how much loud is my exhaust gonna be and what sort of power increase would I expect. If its gonna make it louder and 5kW more... I rather not have it if you know what I mean.

My Catco is installed and barely effected noise levels from the stock R32 GTR cat, you've got nothing to worry about with that ;) . Hopefully if they have space for me my car will be tuned next week (getting a clutch fitted also).

Specs are:

150,000km old R32 block (potentially rebuilt in Japan as it's been running 1.45bar :P )

HKS2530s

Stock dumps, HKS front pipe, Catco, HKS hipower

Stock air box

Fuel system

Power FC

So should be a reasonable comparison to your car. Although my dumps will be restrictive :P .

I think the dumps are the same for all variants of 33s so but dont know it it'll be any less restrictive comaparing to the 32s. But looks like it'll be a good comparison. Which workshop is tuning it for you?

I think the dumps are the same for all variants of 33s so but dont know it it'll be any less restrictive comaparing to the 32s. But looks like it'll be a good comparison. Which workshop is tuning it for you?

Ed @ Autotech here in Canberra. GTRs up to 1000hp under his belt (one there when I went that day he showed me).

My car also has Z32s, there's always something I have forgotten!

So should be a reasonable comparison to your car. Although my dumps will be restrictive :P .

You'll find they probably wont be :P

A heard from a little bird the other day 380rwkw, 20psi on -5s through factory R32 GTR Dumps ;)

You'll find they probably wont be :P

A heard from a little bird the other day 380rwkw, 20psi on -5s through factory R32 GTR Dumps ;)

Interesting indeed, thank you. If it is the HKS2530s I have - the previous owner told fibs and didn't know some things - they might be SS, and the motor is in reasonable condition, I should see some decent power. Probably more than what would allow my motor to last a reasonable amount of time :P .

Ed @ Autotech here in Canberra. GTRs up to 1000hp under his belt (one there when I went that day he showed me).

My car also has Z32s, there's always something I have forgotten!

Autotech...? I'm bring mine to Autotech too but in Gold Coast and the tuner's Gavin Woods. I wonder if they're affiliated.

BTW, isnt SS the equivalent of N1s? Is there a link which details the turbo in terms of power output (from a noob point of view). I did a search on the forum and all I could find is people's experience with different turbos and their built. I'm still learning... =D

Edited by Brandon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...