Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

...I would be able to supply a Deutsch plug kit that comes with a host of different sized plugs (pine wise) and the special crimp tool.....

sounds excellent - can you post up indicative price and kit contents? got a link for ther deutsch catalogue?

I went the 1/2 cheap and lazy option. S13 but the process is still much the same.

I utilized the fuse/relay/fusable link box from the engine bay and mounted it to the tunnel under the dash. This holds all my relays and links and from memory the head light fuses are still in it. As there are a bunch of circuits no longer used i popped out 2 of the fuse holder sections and you can clip in an extra 2 relays.

I retained the factory switchgear and wiring for them as well as the wiring for the wiper motor and shortened them all up to the new location. Stripped the afm wiring out of the engine loom and split that section with only the afm running to the front of the car and the rest of the loom now running inside the cabin to the fuesbox.

Battery is mounted to the floor behind where the passenger seat would be, +ve runs through a cut off switch to a distribution block which on one side goes to one of the cheapy narve fuse holders (i'm having second thoughts after reading this thread).

head and tail lights are done with 7 core trailer wire, 1 extra heavier wire running back for the fuel pump.

Alternator and starter were done as an entirely new section of loom and run through the existing driver side grommet in the fire wall.

I also rewired the power windows. They are now run with 2 2 way self centering switches and 4 5 pin relays so no issues with the factory box breaking or finding where/how to mount the factory switches neatly with no door trims.

Edited by badhairdave
sounds excellent - can you post up indicative price and kit contents? got a link for ther deutsch catalogue?

ill see what i can do. im starting a haltech full engine loom rewire saturday so ill try and take some pics of how things are done.

I also rewired the power windows. They are now run with 2 2 way self centering switches and 4 5 pin relays so no issues with the factory box breaking or finding where/how to mount the factory switches neatly with no door trims.

you dont need relays on the electric windows. good quality switches will do the job just fine. its more so in the wire. if you are going any distance with the wires than you should use a minimum of 5mm wire.

Great topic guys!

I actually work for the company that distributes NARVA and PROJECTA brands. Our catalogue's have around 4,000 SKU's but we carry about 14,000 Part Numbers. Meaning theres lots of stuff thats not obvious to consumers. We can obtain almost anything automotive electrical from our many suppliers OS. If your after anything in particular, let me know and i'll try and source it.

We have also just done a deal to distribute the Deutsch brand of connectors and wiring systems. These will be available soon from all the usual retailers such as Repco, Bursons etc.

If anyone needs help/advise with this sort of thing. Just ask.

Warren

Agreed! The Deutsch connectors are the best automotive connectors I have used. We make plenty of OEM wiring harnesses for trucks and trailers and they are easiest to use.

I also know that motec use them for their wiring systems. They are tested for ingress to IP67 which means they can be submersed in water up to 1 M. Enough for most GTR's!

deutch is the way to go not cheap but good $170 for the motec sdl dash plug

the ultimate is a PDM power distribution module not cheap either but no fuses no relays just wired outputs programed to what current cutout needed and logged

deutch is the way to go not cheap but good $170 for the motec sdl dash plug

the ultimate is a PDM power distribution module not cheap either but no fuses no relays just wired outputs programed to what current cutout needed and logged

Can you post up some pics of the PDM. I'm curious.

the deutsch connectors are the plan for every plug i can get suitable ones for, i found the hd30 series are the ones for the firewall bulkhead for the main loom in the engine bay. I bet they arn't cheap, any chance of a price on them StockGTR, DJRIFT?

http://www.deutschipd.com/hd30_hdp20_techman.pdf

I saw an article on the motec PDM recently, I will try and find and post it.

Essentially it is a fully programmable power output....so 1 big supply wire in, many many individual circuits out, and a couple of trigger wires in (+motc ecu feed). You then program each output to allow up to a certain ampage (programable fuse) and what will trigger it (any of the input wires, any ecu parameter, any threshold values). No further relays, fuses required, and only need switches if you can't switch based on some existing parameter. Brilliant new way to look at things but the PDM is worth more than the rest of my car :blush:

As always my interest is in the cheapest reliable option so no PDM for me.

you dont need relays on the electric windows. good quality switches will do the job just fine. its more so in the wire. if you are going any distance with the wires than you should use a minimum of 5mm wire.

Yeah, i considered it but was unsure of the current draw of the motors so went the beefier option rather than have to re do the whole lot later if stuff melted on me.

I saw an article on the motec PDM recently, I will try and find and post it.

Essentially it is a fully programmable power output....so 1 big supply wire in, many many individual circuits out, and a couple of trigger wires in (+motc ecu feed). You then program each output to allow up to a certain ampage (programable fuse) and what will trigger it (any of the input wires, any ecu parameter, any threshold values). No further relays, fuses required, and only need switches if you can't switch based on some existing parameter. Brilliant new way to look at things but the PDM is worth more than the rest of my car :D

As always my interest is in the cheapest reliable option so no PDM for me.

and here it is http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_111402/article.html

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Digging up an old thread as this stuff really interests me.

Has anyone had any dealings witht he MoTec system Duncan mentioned above?

Been looking at the recent release of Racepak's smartwire, very similar setup witht he new software being released soon.

Very happy with their IQ3, so I'm keen to look at their other products.

Link: http://racepak.com/Components/Smartwire.php

I'm rebuilding two cars at the moment using PDM15's so far i have found them to be very good, once you get everything that you need from Motec to run them, as they do not come with any of the plugs etc.

  • 9 months later...

Dale,

Sorry, I didn't get a notification of your reply, the PDM15 is around $1800 and that does to job on most cars, I have a M48 in the car but it doesn't directly communicate with the PDM as you need CAN for that, I use a few of the outputs from the ECU to drive the PDM (Fuel Pump, Intercooler spray) and use an AiM Sportssystem EVO4 data logger and MXL Dash.

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the reply mate. I'm running a Wolf V500 at the moment with the Racepak dash, and I'm wishing I went down the MoTec ECU, PDM and Dash route now. Oh well maybe on the next car.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...