Wiring Up Track Only Car Options

[Duncan]

...I would be able to supply a Deutsch plug kit that comes with a host of different sized plugs (pine wise) and the special crimp tool.....

sounds excellent - can you post up indicative price and kit contents? got a link for ther deutsch catalogue?

[badhairdave]

I went the 1/2 cheap and lazy option. S13 but the process is still much the same.

I utilized the fuse/relay/fusable link box from the engine bay and mounted it to the tunnel under the dash. This holds all my relays and links and from memory the head light fuses are still in it. As there are a bunch of circuits no longer used i popped out 2 of the fuse holder sections and you can clip in an extra 2 relays.

I retained the factory switchgear and wiring for them as well as the wiring for the wiper motor and shortened them all up to the new location. Stripped the afm wiring out of the engine loom and split that section with only the afm running to the front of the car and the rest of the loom now running inside the cabin to the fuesbox.

Battery is mounted to the floor behind where the passenger seat would be, +ve runs through a cut off switch to a distribution block which on one side goes to one of the cheapy narve fuse holders (i'm having second thoughts after reading this thread).

head and tail lights are done with 7 core trailer wire, 1 extra heavier wire running back for the fuel pump.

Alternator and starter were done as an entirely new section of loom and run through the existing driver side grommet in the fire wall.

I also rewired the power windows. They are now run with 2 2 way self centering switches and 4 5 pin relays so no issues with the factory box breaking or finding where/how to mount the factory switches neatly with no door trims.

Edited August 19, 2009 by badhairdave

[DJRIFT]

sounds excellent - can you post up indicative price and kit contents? got a link for ther deutsch catalogue?

ill see what i can do. im starting a haltech full engine loom rewire saturday so ill try and take some pics of how things are done.

I also rewired the power windows. They are now run with 2 2 way self centering switches and 4 5 pin relays so no issues with the factory box breaking or finding where/how to mount the factory switches neatly with no door trims.

you dont need relays on the electric windows. good quality switches will do the job just fine. its more so in the wire. if you are going any distance with the wires than you should use a minimum of 5mm wire.

[Stock GTR]

Great topic guys!

I actually work for the company that distributes NARVA and PROJECTA brands. Our catalogue's have around 4,000 SKU's but we carry about 14,000 Part Numbers. Meaning theres lots of stuff thats not obvious to consumers. We can obtain almost anything automotive electrical from our many suppliers OS. If your after anything in particular, let me know and i'll try and source it.

We have also just done a deal to distribute the Deutsch brand of connectors and wiring systems. These will be available soon from all the usual retailers such as Repco, Bursons etc.

If anyone needs help/advise with this sort of thing. Just ask.

Warren

[Stock GTR]

sounds excellent - can you post up indicative price and kit contents? got a link for ther deutsch catalogue?

Link for Deutsch http://www.epde.com.au/

[Swiper the Fox]

My last two racecar wiring jobs were full Deutsch jobs...i don't think ill ever wire a racecar again with anything else.

It makes for a top notch job.

[Stock GTR]

Agreed! The Deutsch connectors are the best automotive connectors I have used. We make plenty of OEM wiring harnesses for trucks and trailers and they are easiest to use.

I also know that motec use them for their wiring systems. They are tested for ingress to IP67 which means they can be submersed in water up to 1 M. Enough for most GTR's!

[Walk510]

deutch is the way to go not cheap but good $170 for the motec sdl dash plug

the ultimate is a PDM power distribution module not cheap either but no fuses no relays just wired outputs programed to what current cutout needed and logged

[Stock GTR]

deutch is the way to go not cheap but good $170 for the motec sdl dash plug

the ultimate is a PDM power distribution module not cheap either but no fuses no relays just wired outputs programed to what current cutout needed and logged

Can you post up some pics of the PDM. I'm curious.

[unique1]

the deutsch connectors are the plan for every plug i can get suitable ones for, i found the hd30 series are the ones for the firewall bulkhead for the main loom in the engine bay. I bet they arn't cheap, any chance of a price on them StockGTR, DJRIFT?

http://www.deutschipd.com/hd30_hdp20_techman.pdf

[Duncan]

I saw an article on the motec PDM recently, I will try and find and post it.

Essentially it is a fully programmable power output....so 1 big supply wire in, many many individual circuits out, and a couple of trigger wires in (+motc ecu feed). You then program each output to allow up to a certain ampage (programable fuse) and what will trigger it (any of the input wires, any ecu parameter, any threshold values). No further relays, fuses required, and only need switches if you can't switch based on some existing parameter. Brilliant new way to look at things but the PDM is worth more than the rest of my car

As always my interest is in the cheapest reliable option so no PDM for me.

[badhairdave]

you dont need relays on the electric windows. good quality switches will do the job just fine. its more so in the wire. if you are going any distance with the wires than you should use a minimum of 5mm wire.

Yeah, i considered it but was unsure of the current draw of the motors so went the beefier option rather than have to re do the whole lot later if stuff melted on me.

[Duncan]

I saw an article on the motec PDM recently, I will try and find and post it.

Essentially it is a fully programmable power output....so 1 big supply wire in, many many individual circuits out, and a couple of trigger wires in (+motc ecu feed). You then program each output to allow up to a certain ampage (programable fuse) and what will trigger it (any of the input wires, any ecu parameter, any threshold values). No further relays, fuses required, and only need switches if you can't switch based on some existing parameter. Brilliant new way to look at things but the PDM is worth more than the rest of my car

As always my interest is in the cheapest reliable option so no PDM for me.

and here it is http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_111402/article.html

[T04GTR]

what about nice etfe mil-spec wire?

[PSI Parts]

Digging up an old thread as this stuff really interests me.

Has anyone had any dealings witht he MoTec system Duncan mentioned above?

Been looking at the recent release of Racepak's smartwire, very similar setup witht he new software being released soon.

Very happy with their IQ3, so I'm keen to look at their other products.

Link: http://racepak.com/Components/Smartwire.php

[blackrex]

I'm rebuilding two cars at the moment using PDM15's so far i have found them to be very good, once you get everything that you need from Motec to run them, as they do not come with any of the plugs etc.

[PSI Parts]

How much are you looking at for the PDM setup with everything you need? I assume these cars are going to run a MoTec ECU and Dash as well?

[blackrex]

Dale,

Sorry, I didn't get a notification of your reply, the PDM15 is around $1800 and that does to job on most cars, I have a M48 in the car but it doesn't directly communicate with the PDM as you need CAN for that, I use a few of the outputs from the ECU to drive the PDM (Fuel Pump, Intercooler spray) and use an AiM Sportssystem EVO4 data logger and MXL Dash.

[PSI Parts]

Thanks for the reply mate. I'm running a Wolf V500 at the moment with the Racepak dash, and I'm wishing I went down the MoTec ECU, PDM and Dash route now. Oh well maybe on the next car.....

[Risking]

We're doing a Haltech/racepak pdm/dash install at the moment into a lotus exige GT car.

They are an affordable option an can use the racepak CAN bus switch pannel to make life even easier