Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is the 2nd highly recommended suspension specialist I've been to that has left me fuming ... I'm not gonna namy any names, but first one quoted $600 for shock install and alignment and billed me $1000. Did a very half assed job on alignment and didnt install dust covers that I paid for and also the bump stops as it turns out were just some old one they found in the scrap bin..

This 2nd one quoted $440 and billed $530 .. and the best f**king thing of all, I asked for 355mm front and 345mm rear (new springs with existing bilsteins .. new swaybars) and was told while at the shop when it was done fronts were 350 and rears 340 ..I thought f**k it, that's close enough. I get home take out a measuring tape and the rears are 330. FFS. Now I have to go back (80min travel each way) and they will probably want to bill me some more to fix their own f**king mistake.

Speaking of which .. when they at first didnt get the front height correctly instead of taking the shocks out and pressing the springs onto the correct circlip groove, they just used crowbars with the shocks/springs fully installed and somehow managed to push em up. But it looked so dodgey and I'm not sure wtf if anything they could have damaged doing that.

Anyway ..these are 2 of the most highly regarded/recommended suspension places in Sydney. Both are f**king f**ktards. </rant>

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Did they explain why the extra $400?

Its frustrating, but if you ask a workshop to give you a price that they wont exceed then you are always going to get hit hard. The dollars you are talking about is an extra 1-2 hours work. If you have ever worked on a car you realise it only takes a bolt not wanting to come off, or your non height adjustable shocks and springs not giving them the height they want so have to change the paltform base and hope find the happy medium which still may not be right.

Not defending them, but if bills going over what they quote frustrates you i seriously suggst you go throuh 12-18months of learning how to do things yourself or you give up modding cars :thumbsup:

i gotta agree with you wacky, if they are 'highly recommended' and all that wank and they do a shit job simply because they think they are tip top suspension shop and that their job is the right job, not what YOU want and what YOU pay for then they're a bunch of dickheads, if i was you i'd be pissed too. what's with places these days? Still there are some small businesses who do a better job because it's their passion, not their job, were these places big businesses?

Did they explain why the extra $400?

Its frustrating, but if you ask a workshop to give you a price that they wont exceed then you are always going to get hit hard. The dollars you are talking about is an extra 1-2 hours work. If you have ever worked on a car you realise it only takes a bolt not wanting to come off, or your non height adjustable shocks and springs not giving them the height they want so have to change the paltform base and hope find the happy medium which still may not be right.

Not defending them, but if bills going over what they quote frustrates you i seriously suggst you go throuh 12-18months of learning how to do things yourself or you give up modding cars :woot:

$400 for 1-2 hours? more like 5 hours.

there's not a lot to go wrong when installing shocks, if they take longer than 2 hoursr they shouldnt be a mechanic. a good mechanic wouldnt take more than an hour.

that 1st place claimed it took them 8 hours to change the shocks..lower the car 2cm (on stock) springs + $130 or so for alignment that I witnessed and it took literally 30 seconds with no machines used just those manual devices that measure camber.

I just called this 2nd place about the 330mm rear and he goes "oh I measured it ..it was 340, must have settled then". How the hell do the springs settle 1cm in under 50kms or is it actually possible ??? I was expecting to get .5cm sag in maybe a month or close to 500-600Kms driving BUT NOT 1cm in my return trip home. I reckon he's just full of shit and wants to use that as an excuse to charge me to up the springs to 345 as originally requested.

ur suspension does settle from fresh off the hoist, so u have to drive it around the block, then measure it.

sounds like the shop straight up rorted u. 8 hours to change shocks is a joke, so is $130 for a wheel alignment done properly on a aligner, most place over here charge around $80 for a 4 wheel alignment.

the rears wheels are just slightly under the wheel arches ..not what I wanted. 345 (340 with sag) woulda given me perfect rim fit without that dumped look .. I know it's 1cm but it makes a big difference to looks and more importantly the rest of the geometry and ride quality. They could only get rear camber to -1.75 when I asked for -0.5 to -0.75 .. hopefully when they jack it back up to 345 I'll get -1.0 camber at the rear.

ur suspension does settle from fresh off the hoist, so u have to drive it around the block, then measure it.

sounds like the shop straight up rorted u. 8 hours to change shocks is a joke, so is $130 for a wheel alignment done properly on a aligner, most place over here charge around $80 for a 4 wheel alignment.

I'm pretty sure he measured it after driving it around the block and he said it was 340 which is bs .. it's 330 spot on, both sides.

Yeah the first place did rip me off ..but that was a year ago and my Bilsteins were MIA for 5 months and this was the only opportunity to get my hands on them so I just wanted to be done with it.

The 2nd shop that I referred to was doing springs/swaybars last week..

Jebuz you sure copped a rheaming there mate. My workshop just fitted new bilsteins to my 33 and it took him all of about 2 hours from go to whoa. At 85 dollars an hour that sure beats what those pricks took you for.

The car settled about 5/10 mil so I reset it myself. Took about an hour with a pair of spring compressors. a pair of circlip pliers and a jack.

On face value what you have been charged for the service provided is ludicrous.

ur suspension does settle from fresh off the hoist, so u have to drive it around the block, then measure it.

sounds like the shop straight up rorted u. 8 hours to change shocks is a joke, so is $130 for a wheel alignment done properly on a aligner, most place over here charge around $80 for a 4 wheel alignment.

I am not saying they are right or wrong. I am just saying its not always as clear cut.

I agree it seems expensive, but there may be more to the story. Check your invoice and see where all the hours go. By the sounds of it your Bilstein shocks wont give you the height you are after so will ahve to either get different springs, machine new seat or live with a compromise. Maybe they removed the shocks, tried different rate/length springs to acheive what you asked for and you got what they thought was the best compromise?!?!?!?!?

And i think you are lucky if you can get an $80 alignment that includes camber adjustment, castor adjustment and toe. Most wheel alignment places for $80 say "yep, castor and camber fine, i just tweaked the toe". Well that has been my experience.

Best to do all thsi stuff yourself. It pains me when you buy all these parts only to find it costs more to install the part then it was to buy it :banana: Do it yourself, its not that steep a learning curve

I am not saying they are right or wrong. I am just saying its not always as clear cut.

I agree it seems expensive, but there may be more to the story. Check your invoice and see where all the hours go. By the sounds of it your Bilstein shocks wont give you the height you are after so will ahve to either get different springs, machine new seat or live with a compromise. Maybe they removed the shocks, tried different rate/length springs to acheive what you asked for and you got what they thought was the best compromise?!?!?!?!?

And i think you are lucky if you can get an $80 alignment that includes camber adjustment, castor adjustment and toe. Most wheel alignment places for $80 say "yep, castor and camber fine, i just tweaked the toe". Well that has been my experience.

Best to do all thsi stuff yourself. It pains me when you buy all these parts only to find it costs more to install the part then it was to buy it :) Do it yourself, its not that steep a learning curve

back when i used to pay for my alignments i cant think of one place that charged me more than $90 for a full alignment including F&R toe, caster and rear camber. but that's why u call up first or go there and get a quote, u dont just go somewhere blind and hope they will be cheap. if u just give someone ur business without getting them to sell u on it first they will rip u off as they havent needed to give u a good quote to get u there. u have to let them know they are a genuine option so they will take u seriously, but at the same time make them let them know that they have to give u a decent price to get u there.

If you want a job done........ (can someone please finish the sentence).

doesnt suprise me ur from adelaide. i wish these guys were in adelaide as id be making a killing off them :) damn adelaidians are too in-tune with their cars and do too much shit themselves haha

doesnt suprise me ur from adelaide. i wish these guys were in adelaide as id be making a killing off them :P damn adelaidians are too in-tune with their cars and do too much shit themselves haha

I thought that was because wages in Adelaide are so poor? :P

Yeah, seems like you got a bit ripped though. I'd be interested to know what the difference in price was for, particularly on the first one.

I'd accept 10mm as settling, though i'd think that the specialist would know that it will settle and take it for a reasonable length drive

I agree with Roy here, as you will only see the mechanic's side of the story after working in the trade or doing these things for yourself. It would have served you better to question them when you got the invoice and find out exactly what took so long. They might have thought the strut tops were located in the boot instead of underneath the parcel shelf...a mistake I made when estimating the install time of my own suspension. The interior removal and the fact you have to have two people working on the car or do some ladder/hoist tricks by yourself adds a good amount of time to the rear. There might have been some buggered bolts too. In the end, the mechanic has to charge the customer for his f*** ups because mechanics f*** up ALOT, even the best of them. Cars are very hit and miss and no two cars are exactly the same. A mechanic who is not charging their customers for their f*** ups is not going to break even.

As a very slow DIYer, I did the coilovers in my car in the space of a day and that was by myself, taking my time with everything and cleaning up alot of stuff. It does sound a bit exhorbitant what they charged you, but that's why I say you should have questioned what all their time went into. Something must have gone very wrong (or they were using apprentices) to charge you that much.

I thought that was because wages in Adelaide are so poor? :(

Yeah, seems like you got a bit ripped though. I'd be interested to know what the difference in price was for, particularly on the first one.

I'd accept 10mm as settling, though i'd think that the specialist would know that it will settle and take it for a reasonable length drive

I would rather be a poor Adelaidian than a gay Sydneysider... :)

In all seriousness, the reason is I would rather do all the work myself because I trust myself and only a few others when it comes to putting their hands on my car. I would rather f**k something up, there is no fun it letting others do it... ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...