Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've been thinking about this all day, still not swayed either way. I can see myself (and the missus) appreciating having the air con when staging etc coming into the warmer weather but also see that it IS weight that can be lost and a tiny bit less for the engine to do, though not much as it's obviously only requiring work when it's engaged.

Hmm... lol

I've been thinking about this all day, still not swayed either way. I can see myself (and the missus) appreciating having the air con when staging etc coming into the warmer weather but also see that it IS weight that can be lost and a tiny bit less for the engine to do, though not much as it's obviously only requiring work when it's engaged.

Hmm... lol

Harden the f**k up. :(

Most modern shit cuts the air compressor out on full throttle. I think R32's do this, do S13's?

You don't sound too serious about getting an extra tenth out of your times, and personally, in your situation (already thinking about selling time) I'd leave the aircon in it. Rip the passenger seat out when you get to the track to save 10kg or so......

If you remove the aircon, it'll never go back in mate.

Those complaining that its hot???? Come on guys. I havea std radiator so drive at the track with teh heater fan on high and full blast to try and take heat out of the coolant.

My AC never got regassed after the engine came out years ago, then a line melted with the high mount so out it came, 10kgs is 10kgs

lol

resale and s13 in the same sentance

you guys are f**ked!

But is only ever gets driven on weekends :yes:

If its a track car rip it out and ditch it, chances are who ever you sell it to will use it for the same purposes anyway.

Those complaining that its hot???? Come on guys. I havea std radiator so drive at the track with teh heater fan on high and full blast to try and take heat out of the coolant.

I'll see your permanently on heater (not because the rad can't cool, but because the tap is permanently on) and raise you one glowing exhaust system next to my leg. The rotary exhaust runs so hot I can smell paint on the trans tunnel burning at the end of each stage. Even the handbrake handle gets too hot to touch.

Not such a bad thing in winter, but it gets awful hot in summer (Gallangowan 2008 was a shocker. Even the water out of my camel back drink bottle was coming out hot enough to make a cup of tea)

But yeah - hot and sweaty is so much fun. Lucky I'm such a hard bastard :yes:

Dedicated track car - yeh I'd probably strip the A/C out if it wasn't working well. Anything else and I'd happily leave it in there.

Pull it out and stop being pussy. Silvia's aren't worth shit so why worry about resale. Its only going to go to a skid kid anyway when you sell it so it makes it more drift spec. Win Win.

I just put my battery in the boot so thats 10kg off the front wheels as I had a large battery and moved it as far to the rear left as I could and when I remove the aircon inc under dash that should be another 15kg off the front of the car hopefully.

Weight is weight and I have never seen Ash ever do a trackday so his opinion doesn't count :( Sorry Ash :whistling:

I'm with Bris. Std radiator and heater on FTW!

I'm in a similar situation, thinking of whether to take the aircon out or not. My main reason is to try and get as much airflow to the radiator as possible because out on track the day heat up here is a killer.

Edited by PM-R33
  • 2 weeks later...

Something interesting to add.

I was at a drive course yesterday and had Luke Youldon as my driver/trainer and he insisted on having the windows up and aircon on explaining that the added comfort would keep me fresh and would do far more for lap times than the small reduction in weight would do.

Having said that, once he got out of the car I turned it off and put the windows back down as I prefer to drive that way. It was only 22 yesterday so it was hardly hot weather.

At this stage, it's still in the car.

lol

That aside, just saying it's a valid point. It was interesting to see how some people handled fatigue later in the day, which is when more 'incidents' occured. That will also be car fatigue, tyres etc, also.

Me, i just keep the windows down and kept my sessions to 5-10laps depending on how the car was feeling.

Windows down is far too loud and too much wind to hear what the engine, tyres are doing. Without wanting to sound like a tool, i am basically shit scared most laps i am driving fast so kind of focussed and dotn really notice if i am hot, or the cabin is hot etc. I agree if you are doing races etc. Bt i cant remember the last time i did 10laps in one sitting. Doing 5 laps at a time is a breeze, irrespective of ho hot the cabin may or may not be

I'm a windows down man, but I don't notice the heat in the car unless it's a long straight or it's in the pits really. I really just like hearing my 'gate open up which is better with the windows down :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...