Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've seen pictures of people with their cars jacked up two wheels at a time with the jack somewhere in the middle...

also cars jacked up from somewhere other than that little bit on the side made for those dodgey little car jacks.

i've looked around on the bottom of my car but can't figure out exactly where people are putting these jacks. can anyone upload pictures or something for me? :D 

would be appreciated...zorz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289799-jacking-up-ur-car/
Share on other sites

I've seen pictures of people with their cars jacked up two wheels at a time with the jack somewhere in the middle...

also cars jacked up from somewhere other than that little bit on the side made for those dodgey little car jacks.

i've looked around on the bottom of my car but can't figure out exactly where people are putting these jacks. can anyone upload pictures or something for me? :P 

would be appreciated...zorz.

Check out this thread. http://www.ehow.com/video_4941952_put-jack...er-vehicle.html

Stay safe.

GW

That vid misses quite a few vital safety aspects, like making sure the non-raised wheels are chocked properly for one...

Firstly, never ever ever try and use a sill jack on any other part of the car other than the proper jacking points. As Bard said, a road car is not strong enough to do this and you will either destroy the jack or your car. Heck, if your lucky, maybe even both!

If you want the front lifted then use the centre of the cross member - not the sump! Always use jack stands and try to keep them as close to the suspension pick up points as practicle as possible. The control arms used in that vid are a good idea, although I cant say using the edge of them is that bright. Personally I would use a bit of wood between the jack stand and the control arm (steel on steel is asking for trouble IMO) then you can use the whole control arm not just the edge.

For the rear, try putting the jack under the diff housing. Just be aware that the car will be VERY unstable as it is being jacked and can rock from side to side.

It should go without saying that safety should always come first. Never get under a car that is supported by a jack, always make sure the car is on level ground before raising it at all, and try to keep bystanders right the f**k away. One other person as a spotter is a good idea, but that should be it. Always fully chock any wheels that are to remain on the ground. Also, try not to open any doors on a car that is supported by a jack. Especially on 2 door cars, this can really upset the balance of the vehicle. Lastly, as I said before, its always a good idea to use wood between any steel jack or jack stands and the car. Apart from adding a "crush" factor that helps with stability, the friction coefficient is much higher making it more stable.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

+3 for the diff or x-member/rad support :laugh:

also i use the OEM jack on one of the sides so if a stand does fail the car wont fall all the way 2 the ground.

also never use bricks 2 suport a car i made that mistake once and i will never do that again :)

spare wheels and tyres are really good for getting a car up off the ground, if your doing something that doesnt require removing any of the wheels you can simply jack it up via the diff/xmember and chuck a spare wheel and tyre under each wheel, 2 if you need to go really high. if the wheels need to come off you can put the wheels and tyres under the chassis rails, make sure you have the car sitting on 4 points before you get under there and dont have the front supports too far back, the motor is the heaviest part.

car ramps are good 4 doing work on a car when u don't need 2 take off the wheels and also there is no ramp solution 4 raising the whole car unless u make some.

4 me im restricted when it comes 2 space so im stuck with a trolly jack and axle stands (modified 4 skyline)

with the height of the average skyline ramps would need to be about 8 feet long to be much good to ya

unless you remove the front bar or something????????

well all u do is wedge a thick bit of wood in there to extend the length



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was wondering about this. I'll do some research.
    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
×
×
  • Create New...