Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just came across this force flow superchargers. US made and seen some youtube comparison with other China knock offs.

any one actually used it? retailed around from $500~ $1000 each

http://www.force-flow.com/

Edited by kwickr33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290602-force-flow-electric-superchargers/
Share on other sites

People say that it is a waste of time. I was interested in doing it a while back due to being on P's and having restrictions to only driving n/a. Was going to fit a turbine into the intake piping, 3 inch or so for the stealth look. But the argument behind it was that it runs out of puff and will start to be restrictive to the engine at the mid / top end.

Here is a link from a properly done one and what was achieved:

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0406tur_...rger/index.html

And a quick link to a pic of the system, it's not just a simple fan:

0406tur_knight02_z.jpg

I still think that there's something behind the turbine in the intake piping though... brushless motors are damn fast and incredibly efficient. If you could make it flow really well it could help with bottom end torque and not restrict the upper end. Probably not worth it though. Only be useful for lightly tuned engines or stealth n/a for p drivers.

Hope this helps

~Danz

they blew up the test car due to leaning out. not the best testing procedure.

look at the size if it its a pretty big unit. by the time you fitted one of these and 3 batteries and wiring, piping, new bypass valve ect it would cost more than a goot turbo setup.

People say that it is a waste of time. I was interested in doing it a while back due to being on P's and having restrictions to only driving n/a. Was going to fit a turbine into the intake piping, 3 inch or so for the stealth look. But the argument behind it was that it runs out of puff and will start to be restrictive to the engine at the mid / top end.

Here is a link from a properly done one and what was achieved:

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0406tur_...rger/index.html

And a quick link to a pic of the system, it's not just a simple fan:

I still think that there's something behind the turbine in the intake piping though... brushless motors are damn fast and incredibly efficient. If you could make it flow really well it could help with bottom end torque and not restrict the upper end. Probably not worth it though. Only be useful for lightly tuned engines or stealth n/a for p drivers.

Hope this helps

~Danz

In regards to the article - I'm approaching this quite cynical. If the technology is good, car manufacturers would have jumped on the bandwagon around 10 years ago.

"Maybe good" strictly for low end application for people after high torque at low RPMs or people wanting an NA+T style setup. Don't think it will be used to make big power... but who knows what the future may bring.

Clear advantage with this system would be zero lag as the supercharger will be independent on engine speed and you can mount it in almost any direction.

Disadvantage - it would be heavy, especially since you will need extra wiring battery and anything else required for such a power hungry device.

Possibly system could be made lighter by using lighter metals, faster/lighter motors, battery technology might improve further and regenerative braking could be used to help charge the batteries faster... but then, again with all that said and done... It would have been easier to go straight to a hybrid (petrol+electric aka Prius) setup and not have the electric supercharger.... as hybrids have pretty good torque from low RPMs.

I'd imagine this whole electric supercharger idea is more of a retro fit to current vehicles that need the extra torque, slight power increase and possibly economy - but no means the future of forced induction.

a different way to do it....

you purchase a "smog pump" from the USA

hook that up to air-cond. pump so it's spinning and forcing air (~800cfm)

run this unit in the intake and you'd notice a difference

a little trick to force-feed air for motorbikes...... same principle for RB engines.

"Maybe good" strictly for low end application for people after high torque at low RPMs or people wanting an NA+T style setup. Don't think it will be used to make big power... but who knows what the future may bring.

I'm thinking along the same lines, low rpm boost.

But what if it was only used until the turbo comes in, somewhat like the new vw TSI engine which has both a supercharger and turbocharger, once boost goes past a specific amount, the clutch for the supercharger disengages and the turbo is solely run.

In the same way, an electric supercharger could be used, say it gives it boost until the turbo spools up enough. And in terms of choking the airflow, it could run a bypass valve / pipe which will flow the air around the elec supercharger.

a different way to do it....

you purchase a "smog pump" from the USA

hook that up to air-cond. pump so it's spinning and forcing air (~800cfm)

run this unit in the intake and you'd notice a difference

a little trick to force-feed air for motorbikes...... same principle for RB engines.

I've never actually heard about this before... so you sacrifice your a/c for performance, it pumps the air into the exhaust manifold... very interesting. This would only benefit n/a engines I would imagine?

I noticed when reading up on it that it said it lets the fuel burn for a longer period of time resulting in less restriction of flow. Does a stock engine normally have flames in the exhaust? I mean I know you can do stuff with timing and cutting ingnition in order to get flames out the end of the exhaust, but I didn't realize that there was actual flames outside the combustion area of an engine.

What kind of improvement would this modification give you, would it be a better alternative than the elec supercharger in terms of power, weight, and cost?

And are a/c units made to have a constant high duty - will it fail over time?

tried it on my mate's gf's Prelude Si, non VTEC

Made a bit of a difference, nothing extreme, he wasted like $600 on that forceflow thing, drains shit loads of current on powering up.

Not a good investment, but it did make some power, I'm imaging serious lean-outs too...

Would be good connected to a SAFC or similar.

I could really see this going somewhere though, if it was only used to 'giddy up' the engine through the low rpm until the turbo charger has enough momentum to take over. Then to stop it from choking the system, go around it via a bypass valve or something.

Definitely shouldn't be used as a stand alone forced induction. That way it doesn't use a stupid amount of power from the batt either.

On that note, why do people put more batteries into the car in order to compensate for the elec supercharger. Wouldn't you be improving the alternator, not the batteries? I mean it's like having a 100L fuel tank but never actually filling it up that much as it gets used quicker than it can store it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...