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R34 Auto Gearbox Detonation

TR34SON
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TR34SON Explorer

TR34SON

Posted
Posted

Just wondering if anyone has taken a r34GTT semi auto to it's limits? I'm aiming for 300-350 rwhp and just wondering if the box will handle anything around the 300 mark??? Pretty much will my gearbox detonate over a certain hp?

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TR34SON Explorer

TR34SON

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Put good fluid in and it should last a long time, if your worried about blowing it up use a transmission cooler.

Yeah cheers, got the trans cooler, just wondering if they're rated to a certain horsepower?

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Mine has been living with 320awhp for a fair while now.. I think it's a bit tired, it slips wickedly 1st>2nd unless I back off slightly or bounce the limiter once but that could just be the ECU not pulling timing. 2nd>3rd and 3rd>4th seem fine.

P.S. it's a 4wd Stagea but it's pretty much the same box but with a transfer case stuck on the end.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted (edited)

Stan (Satanic) had the flex plate let go, but that was around the 300rwkw mark. My car has had 300rwhp going through it for years now, changed the fluid over and that fixed slipping.

A full box build though with kevlar bands and a shift kit would be a good upgrade. Don't get the shift kit without upgrading the bands, you'll brake the standard bands real quick.

Edited by 666DAN
TR34SON Explorer

TR34SON

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Stan (Satanic) had the flex plate let go, but that was around the 300rwkw mark. My car has had 300rwhp going through it for years now, changed the fluid over and that fixed slipping.

A full box build though with kevlar bands and a shift kit would be a good upgrade. Don't get the shift kit without upgrading the bands, you'll brake the standard bands real quick.

Cheers guys, will probably build the box just to make sure.

  • 1 month later...
r32dan Enthusiast

r32dan

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, its nice to see some chat about autos goin on. sometimes find it hard to get info on them as everyone has manuals. its also nice to see fella's pullin some nice power figures through them too. well done.....

quick question, anyone seen a stall converter in a skyline. do you need to prep the box in any way prior to doing so, or would they be ok straight up. what stall would be the go?

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted
A full box build though with kevlar bands and a shift kit would be a good upgrade. Don't get the shift kit without upgrading the bands, you'll brake the standard bands real quick.

first i've heard of that. you've got me worried now

Flargh! Enthusiast

Flargh!

Posted
Posted
Stan (Satanic) had the flex plate let go, but that was around the 300rwkw mark. My car has had 300rwhp going through it for years now, changed the fluid over and that fixed slipping.

A full box build though with kevlar bands and a shift kit would be a good upgrade. Don't get the shift kit without upgrading the bands, you'll brake the standard bands real quick.

Where do you get the kevlar bands from? $$$? Are they a prick to put in?

  • 3 weeks later...
Traitor7 Enthusiast

Traitor7

Posted
Posted
Where do you get the kevlar bands from? $$? Are they a prick to put in?

Should be able to get them from where ever you got your shift kit from.. Or try calling MV Automatics and see if they have them.

Keeping on topic..

I'm thinking about pushing more power on my R34 Auto.. I'm going to be getting my turbo high flowed either by GCG or HyperGear so that its able to push between 16 - 20psi.

Got a PWR 19 Row Transmission Cooler lined up to replace the stock one. Anyone got an idea on how many row the stock tranny cooler is, haven't pulled my front bar off to look yet.

Will possibly be buying a shift kit from MV Automatics but I'm still wondering to myself is this going to make my gearbox last?

Since the shiftkit would be putting more strain on my gearbox and making the shifts tighter is the tranny cooler the only upgrade that can be done without rebuilding the box?

There doesn't seem to be much support for the Auto 34's here in W.A and really I wouldn't trust a local shop to be fixing up my box if it blows..

Didn't see the need to open a new thread to post my question so any help is appreciated!

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted
Don't get the shift kit without upgrading the bands, you'll brake the standard bands real quick.

I dont believe that for a second.

never heard of that happening.... other than a 330rwkw r33 that needed a auto build due to the Power-FC obviously not retarding timing on gear changes.

had my MV auto shift kit in for around 2years now and the auto box is Better Than Ever before, currently getting 250rwkw - No slip No band damage, better gear changes, etc

jet_r31 Mentor

jet_r31

Posted
Posted
I dont believe that for a second.

never heard of that happening.... other than a 330rwkw r33 that needed a auto build due to the Power-FC obviously not retarding timing on gear changes.

had my MV auto shift kit in for around 2years now and the auto box is Better Than Ever before, currently getting 250rwkw - No slip No band damage, better gear changes, etc

Its not true at all, thats why. I had one before my powerglide with 370rwkw. The first thing that

goes in the them is always 2nd gear (sprag clutch)??, that and the standard nissan torque converters explode with big power. Mates have had the same problem twice with them now aswell.

cheers

darren

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted
Its not true at all, thats why. I had one before my powerglide with 370rwkw. The first thing that

goes in the them is always 2nd gear (sprag clutch)??, that and the standard nissan torque converters explode with big power. Mates have had the same problem twice with them now aswell.

cheers

darren

Then why do MV sell a complete upgrade kit for the R34 box and yet only rate that at 300rwkw? Because that's all the power even the kevlars can take with a hiding. Ask abobob how his box held up with an MV kit and 245rwkw.

Then contact Satanic and ask him what happened to his flex plate while on the dyno tuning it, a quick squirt at 330rwkw and it let go.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted (edited)
I dont believe that for a second.

never heard of that happening.... other than a 330rwkw r33 that needed a auto build due to the Power-FC obviously not retarding timing on gear changes.

Meaning the bands can't take 330rwkw with a shift kit fitted.....timing or not, it's the power that killed the box.

With regards to Stan and abobob, bear in mind these are both R34 M-ATx boxes that this has happened to, not R32's or R33's

Edited by 666DAN
satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

I think there's some confusion here; there's actually a few differing things that people are talking about:

* R33 box v R34 box

* Power v Torque

The R33 box v R34 box is totally different; not so much in how they work but moreso how they are made. The reason why my flex plate broke whilst someone like Dangerman's held is because the R34 item is wafer thin compared to the R33.

Power translates to heat, which is what kills autos... power, did not kill my flex plate though. Torque did - the stress subjected to the plate when the car hit boost on the dyno and the torque figures shot right up, mauled the plate.

I'm now up to 500rwhp and the box from MV is still going A-OK... and that is with a lot of 'spirited' driving.

My transmission setup is comprised of:

* Fully Overhauled MV Automatics Box

* MV Automatics Shift Kit

* MV Automatics Custom Flex Plate

* MV Automatics High Stall Convertor

* Davies Craig 19 Row Trans Cooler

* Defi Oil Temp Gauge (Trans Temp)

* Quality Trans Fluid

So the question should be for the OP, how do you intend on driving your car? 300-350rwhp would not immediately demand the full works. Doing so would result in a safer and more enjoyable drive though.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Pretty much right, because the torque I'm making at 220rwkw is definately beyond the capabilities of the stock R34 box if driven hard (I've learned when and when not to shift) and I know for a fact putting a shift kit in and getting sharper shifts would f**k it in weeks with my driving.

Basically if you drive like a girl though, the box will last longer in the R34......question is are you a bitch? ;)

Traitor7 Enthusiast

Traitor7

Posted
Posted
I think there's some confusion here; there's actually a few differing things that people are talking about:

* R33 box v R34 box

* Power v Torque

The R33 box v R34 box is totally different; not so much in how they work but moreso how they are made. The reason why my flex plate broke whilst someone like Dangerman's held is because the R34 item is wafer thin compared to the R33.

Power translates to heat, which is what kills autos... power, did not kill my flex plate though. Torque did - the stress subjected to the plate when the car hit boost on the dyno and the torque figures shot right up, mauled the plate.

I'm now up to 500rwhp and the box from MV is still going A-OK... and that is with a lot of 'spirited' driving.

My transmission setup is comprised of:

* Fully Overhauled MV Automatics Box

* MV Automatics Shift Kit

* MV Automatics Custom Flex Plate

* MV Automatics High Stall Convertor

* Davies Craig 19 Row Trans Cooler

* Defi Oil Temp Gauge (Trans Temp)

* Quality Trans Fluid

So the question should be for the OP, how do you intend on driving your car? 300-350rwhp would not immediately demand the full works. Doing so would result in a safer and more enjoyable drive though.

Thanks for clearing that up, useful information too.

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted
How much torque are we talking here

My flex plate broke at 487nm... the new one is going very strong with 650 odd at the moment.

For more pics & details, see here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bi...p;hl=flex+plate

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