Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey - I bought my '92 R32 GTS-t Type M in late August for $17k...I'm the third Australian owner, however the previous owner barely drove the car in the time he owned it, the first Australian owner was a Japanese engineer who imported it stock standard and performed all the modifications himself.

It came with a fair bit of stuff, 17" Jap Longchamp alloys, lowered suspension, steel wheel turbo, 3.5" cat back exhaust, dual stage bleed valve, HKS pod & bov, sony stereo/speakers, 70,000ks on the clock. The interior is in perfect condition, the engine looks almost new and the paint is still fairly good, I've driven around 6,000ks so far and have had no trouble at all (touch wood!)

So I reckon you definitely get what you pay for as I looked at many 14k R32 Skylines, all were in far shabbier condition then mine and came with heaps less, though I'm sure there are some bargains to be had out there.

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I guess i was really lucky getting my r33 for 14k. The guy i bought it off lost his job and couldnt afford to keep it..He was the first owner in aus and it came in stock, and hes the only one to do the mods.

i felt sorta bad taking it off him for a low price cuz its such a nice car and ive had no problems whatsoever, if he wasnt in a rush to sell im sure he could have got 18k for it. At least i wont lose any money when i sell it again so i dont mind modding it up

**** raser 6 thou in 1.5 yrs

ive done 17thou and ive had mine since june

but yeah i was lucky with my car

and ive now converted it to manual which cost me 1.8k with a recon box and 5 puck ceramic clutch

it ended out cheaper than buying a new manual and looks exactly the same

I bought my manual '95 33 GTST with 60,000 completely stock off a private importer for $17,000 inc. onroad costs. I had my mechanic look over it before purchase and it was very clean. I have had it for nearly two months and its been running so well I haven't even had it serviced/tuned yet.

It's in totally stock condition and I can't see any signs of it having been previously modded.

off topic: I took it down to Calder Park on Fri. and my best time was a 15.4 @ 88mph. Not bad considering I have 205's all round. I am still running stock boost. etc.

I outlaunched my mate in his 2000 model clubsport R8... was at least four car lengths on him... before he ran me down at 3/4 track... :Oops: oh well I guess I'll have to invest in some mods :)

I bought my GTST for $12 500, with 101 000 on the clock. It came with an alarm/imobiliser, stereo, boost controller, boost gauge, its manual. I think i have found a bargain. I have had no real worries with it since i bought it in may.

If you know exactly what you are looking for i would go private, you can crack some good deals.

LOL - ScarifieR, I've only owned the car myself just over 3 months, so 6,000ks in three months! Sound a bit more like it?!

The bloke who owned it b4 me only drove it 5,000 in one year, it spent most of that time sitting in the garage!!

unwritten law - I agree about being able to get a great deal if you buy privately, I looked for over 9 months for the right R32 and did heaps of research (how to tell duds etc), I almost bought another one for cheaper but it sold b4 I could get my hands on it, luckily I found the one I bought on the very weekend my previous car sold....nice transition that was!

'92 R32 GTS-t with:

factory sunroof

full 3" exhaust

Bilstein suspension

Eibach springs

Blitz BOV

$2K sound system

$17K on road...

oh it's only got 59K on it. :) and Quicktrak on it so that saved me $2K for the install.

I searched hardcore since June '03 and purchased in mid-late November.

Inspected around 10+ Skylines and only impressed with 3 of them. 2 of them sold before I could arrange time to test drive and the 3rd well...it's sitting in the car park right now :D

I bought my car (1995 R33 GTS-T M-Spec) in Sept '02 for $25,500 which had a solid $7k worth of light mods done to it (exhaust, suspension, audio, fmic, pod just the basics). I feel that i paid a slightly higher price for my car but I got exactly what I paid for (superb condition, light mods, awesome power for the light mods, etc). In the last 12mths i've put another $7k into it myself ($3k on brakes, bodykit, other basic stuff) and im still yet to touch anything major (hasn't even got mags yet haha).

I've done 28,000km and it has not missed a single beat (never stalled, etc). I fill it with nothing but Optimax, Motul oil and myself and it just purrs in any conditions its thrown at.

I think if i tried to sell my car now i'd be lucky to get about $22k for it so in my opinion it isn't even worth trying to sell im best off just keeping it for as long as possible until it starts giving me problems (hopefully well into the 200,000km).

Im much like RaseR. I looked for about 5 months for an R32 GTSt and drove about 8 and saw about 15. Many of the cars out there are dodgy, it takes time to find the right car.

I am proud that I ended up paying $16.5 for my R32 GTSt, because i got exactly what i wanted (except 4 sunroof). My car was in much better condition than any other i saw, and came with some expensive mods like wheels and suspension already.

Roy - the price i think is reasonable for the amount of mods, but get the car checked out, even if its just NRMA, before you hand money over. Many people say that their inspections are shit, but they still find the major things that are the difference between buying a car that you will be able to sell again in the future and buying a POS that you will never be able to sell, maybe not even get it roadworthied.

Rhett

  • 2 weeks later...

1993 R32 GTST with RB25 (installed in Oz)

Gunmetal Grey

93,000 km

front mount

stage 2 GCG turbo 450hp

2litre surge tank, bosch 450hp fuel pump

17" white deep dish circuit racing wheels

DBA gold slotted and drilled brakes all round

Apexi air fuel controller

Apexi boost gauge

Sard turbo timer

three inch exhaust off the turbo, stainless muffler

Kenwood head deck

bilstein suspension

Malpassi fuel pressure reg

sunroof

GTR front bar, side skirts & rear pods (Anyone got a genuine bonnet, spoiler & grille 4 sale??)

5 button ceramic race clutch (Died after second day I had the car. Now running a Daiken Heavy Duty)

HKS super seq bov

Picked it up for $18.5k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...