Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here is a question for you fellas that track your 300kw Skylines.

I've been changing the oil after every track day. My GTR makes about 290 kw and has oil catch can, oil cooler, bigger radiator and runs 14-18 psi lo/hi boost depending on the type of track I'm driving.

After about 10 minutes of track time my oil temp is 120 where I do a cool down and come in.

Since the oil temp is so high and on boost for so long I've always felt it is a good idea to change the oil right after coming home from a track day. Always been the first thing I do.

So my question - do you fellas do that too? It is getting a bit expensive cause I only use Motul 300v or Mobile1 Full Syn - so about $100 for an oil change. This on top of track fees, brakes, petrol and tyres. If this is the cost then I'd rather spend $100 preventing oil related engine failure than $$$ for a rebuild. But just want to know how you folks go?

I know a lot of other guys just do normal 5k and don't change their oil after every track day.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/295705-replace-oil-after-every-track-day/
Share on other sites

I change oil every track day, but i do it the other way around. I change the oil before every track day. That way i know i have anice fresh sump and filter before every track day and oil that is in decent enough condition for pottering around on the streets, which lets face it, you can barely gas secon gear on the street so hardly stressful for the engine or the oil you are running

I change oil every track day, but i do it the other way around. I change the oil before every track day. That way i know i have anice fresh sump and filter before every track day and oil that is in decent enough condition for pottering around on the streets, which lets face it, you can barely gas secon gear on the street so hardly stressful for the engine or the oil you are running

I change my oil every 10 minutes...about how long my engine runs at a meet. :banana:

With around 20K in engine parts invested (my labour is free as i build them myself) a $250 oil change ($25 a litre plus filter) is cheap insurance. I use Motul 300V 'Le Mans' 20W60 and built the engine to run this oil weight.

If it picked up a bearing and or threw a rod and i didn't do this id be always thinking whether if i had done the oil if it would have happened.

Edited by DiRTgarage

I also change my oil before every track day, I dont want to spin a bearing like many others have. I rarely drive my car on the street so i'm not worried about having track day oil in it.

Hmmm, seems to make sense doing it before but means I'm going to go through twice as much oil changing before and after. Maybe I should keep the "street" oil and put that back in after a race day but only run on the race oil for just that track day.

Another expense of having a track/daily driven car. Oh well, need to take care of the beast.

Dont worry about after. Seriosly, if you have done a track day on a sump of oil then i dont see a problem with running it for 4,500-5,000kms. Temp and contaminants are what hurt oil and i cant see you getting too much f either sitting in traffic or going for a drive on the street.

If you run standard or extended sump definatley change before every track day. I personally change my oil every 2-3 track days as I run a dry sump set up with water to oil cooler set up in the radiator end tank so i run around 12-15lt of oil in total inc lines and cooler and the oil temp never sees over 110 deg. Heat is what kills oil so if you can keep the heat down that will go a long way to keeping your oil healthy.

We used to do the oil change just before every track day when i was running the Royal Purple 10w40. When we changed to the RP41 racing oil, we were able to start using the oil for 2 track days as long as I don't do a lot of street k's between them (1000 - 1500). The oil is still seeing < 2500km's total and when we send it away to be tested all results are A-OK.

We did a test where we changed the oil, did about 200k's street, then a track day, (so, <500ks total) sent the oil away to be tested. Drove the car for 1200k's street, did another track day, another few hundred k's on the street, and sent away another oil test. The only difference between the 2 samples was a tiny bit more fuel dilution (about half a percent up from 2.5 -> 3).

Im new to the game but I change it before the track day, Mines a quasi daily as it only comes out if its raining or if I go for a cruise with my daughter and such.

Or if its cold

Or if it hot

Or I have the need, the need for speed (sorry).

I figure it is the combination of heat and lots of boost that might degrade my oil. Basically 110-120 every session for 5-6 sessions over 120k's and a fair bit of boost. I thought that the boost will create bigger compression and therefore more blowby past the rings into the block - e.g. more contaminents. Also I use a return style catch can and get a fair bit of oil/air mix com'n out of the breathers then draining back in.

All good advice here folks I will probably switch to doing the oil change before the track day.

I change oil every track day, but i do it the other way around. I change the oil before every track day. That way i know i have anice fresh sump and filter before every track day and oil that is in decent enough condition for pottering around on the streets, which lets face it, you can barely gas secon gear on the street so hardly stressful for the engine or the oil you are running

HAHA...I'm in the same boat, I pretty much do the same.

  • 2 weeks later...

but seriously....change it before the track day, and after if the oil got hot. otherwise like roy said run it for ages on the street.

mine is track only so I change it every 3-4 days, which is normally 2-3 race meets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
    • The detail level is about right for the money they charge for the full kit... AU$21.00 each issue, 110 issues for a total of $2,300 (I mentioned $2.2K in the first post when the exchange rate was better). $20/week is doable... 😐
    • If planning on joining us for the day(s) please indicate by filling in this form. https://forms.gle/Ma8Nn4DzYVA8uDHg7
    • You put the driver's seat on the wrong side! Incredible detail on all of this. It looks like you could learn a lot about the car just from assembling the kit.
×
×
  • Create New...